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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Inspired by Fitzy's mod of his instrument bezel, I decided to make one myself, but to the left.

Angled it so obstruction of the DIM is mitigated.

What it looks like completed.


Right after Bondo'ing. So... not pretty.



After rough sanding with a rotary tool to get the approximate curvatures and remove excess filler.




Finish sanding by hand with 120 grit. The rear of the pod is flush with the end of the bezel so it won't interfere with the dash.




Showing the interior cut out for clearance with the sides of the dash.




Almost finished. Still have to fill out some voids and blend the transition between the filler and the bezel in one spot.
 

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Keep going! Sanding is going to be a bitch, but keep at it to beautify it more. Try to define the edges a bit more and you may need to add a thin layer of bondo to smooth out all the pin holes etc.

Subscribed! I'm interested in doing something like this as well.
 

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Very nice location but you need to start using,600grit then around 1000grit and then 1500+ grit sand paper to smooth it up. 120 will never get you smooth finish. Auto part stores also sell, aerosol filler primer which helps to eliminate small scratches, but it will not do much on 120grit, you need to step up the sand paper, and wet send it. When you are ready for painting, I would do 2-3 light coats of filler primer, and see if there are visible marks, repair them as needed until its near perfect. If you sand between coats, make sure all the dust is removed, if not it will just cause more and more work. It will look awsome if done properly.
 

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+1 subscibed..
looks awesome man, this might be helpful as well, glazing putty. filling in pin holes and hairline scratches. Ace hardware for apox $7. Comes out red, the tube will last you years unless you're a body man at a paint shop (something that my family still does, I painted cars for a bit too).. Wet sand it with 600, then blow it out with some high psi air to get all of the dust/mud out of the pores and hit it with the glazing putty.. then wet sand until the surface looks like it has freckles (if you smear it on use your finger, sand off 98% of it, leaving only what it has filled in). blow it out with air again, shoot it with primer(the heavy primer works awesome to make the job go faster), rattle can some black over the top(it helps show any imperfections), wet sand to make sure its smooth, blow it dry , tac it then shoot some color on it.. I cant wait to see the finished product. Way to go man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just came in from spraying the filler primer. Spent the afternoon using the glazing putty to fix all the smaller imperfections and then wet sanding it with 1000 grit sand paper. Process repeated about 4 times. Also blending the transitions and curvatures.

This is the final result with the primer coat on. Will wet sand it and the final color coat will go on tomorrow.









 

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Looks great!
I would prefer the gauge on the right by the RPMs.
Is it obstructed with your hands on the wheel at 10&2?

Scott
 

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Looks good, excellent work!
 

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Looks great, I love the location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Thanks guys. Now I have to figure out why I am not boosting to 15psi....
Maybe a kinked boost line near the hinge or a over tightened brass sleeve. Sigh.
Ignorance was bliss.

Edit: False alarm. I just didn't stomp hard enough. It also helps if you use some plumber's teflon tape to wrap the connectors so they don't leak while under pressure.
 

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Looks like the gauge needs to be turned Clockwise to level. My OCD says it must be done ASAP!
 
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