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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Good show - looks like you plan to keep this fine ES and put a few dollars into improvements.

The B20 can be brought up to about 150-160hp with the usual mods including head work, cam, headers, exhaust, etc.

New black interior pieces are available but may require an early 401k withdrawal.

The brakes are more than adequate once brought up to OE standards.

Suspension upgrades are also shop-n-swap but be aware that hard plastic bushes and stiff shocks will make for a non-cruiser ride.

Since you will need the AC for your Texas Hill Country retirement the power steering option may be a no-go (no space available) but armstrong steering is needed only at very low speeds.

Let's roll!

George Dill
Yes, I have looked at the v8 conversions and really don't think that's the direction I want to go. I actually like the sound and character if the B20 and I really am leaning towards the mods you refer to since (warning: barely-believable comment ahead) I don't think I want all that v8 power. I'm not racing the thing, after all.

As for the suspension, I think the only modification the PO performed was a swap for the lowered springs. I may be wrong, though. So far I haven't been able to get in touch with him but I will keep trying.

The AC blows hot right now so I have to work that out. No manual was provided so more research is necessary. I hear the compressor engage when I turn the knob on the under-dash unit but the air never cools past ambient. The 'off-highway-city' knob makes no appreciable difference, either.

As for the steering, I absolutely don't want PS. I was thinking more along the lines of an unassisted rack and pinion setup. It's a car built in 1973; the steering is supposed to be heavy, IMO.

I am visiting a local auto body shop that can cut and weld the rust areas tomorrow to have them take a look.

As for the interior, well... I guess I will look at all my options. There are about a dozen local places that say they can redo the interior so that is an option, I suppose. The PO had the interior redone in CA for about $2k not long ago.

Thanks for your help, George.
 

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BTW: what exactly did you mean by OE standards for the brakes? Rotors and pads?
This car is nearly 40 years old. The entire braking system including hand brake needs a look-over and all sub-standard parts replaced. Calipers must be totally free of all leaks and must be properly assembled. For a non-race car new OE rotors are fine along with dust-free street pads. Existing rubber brake lines may look ok but may have internal failures causing a collapsed hose.

Here is a rainy-day activity (did I say that?!)...

http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/Volvo_1800_dokumentation_main_page_en.php

Looking at the above site note that EVERYTHING about your car is covered.

BUT - the site may not be up forever so consider downloading each document pertinent to your ES then save a copy of each on your home/work system, whatever.

BTW, just had a (routine) benign cyst removed at SW Dermatology and this puts me in perfect tune so I should be around to get a ride in your ES once your Texas Hill Country retirement home gets air conditioning.

George Dill
 

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I have noticed that the keys are incredibly flimsy. Also, I noted at least 3 receipts from a locksmith in the paperwork the PO gave me with my new 73 ES. A small, hidden push button start would be ideal, I believe. Does anyone know of any issues that would preclude this in a 73 with a hot spark ignition?
Until you get that push-button starter switch installed - take a close look at the ignition switch in the dash while holding a new ignition key in your hand. Note that the switch has a built-up "shoulder" that "grabs" an elevated portion of the key. If this shoulder is worn the new keys may not survive the strong twist in the switch especially if they are brass or bendable alloy.

Hardened key blanks are available but push-button starter switch is a lot cheaper.

Is the AC R12 with a York compressor?

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Until you get that push-button starter switch installed - take a close look at the ignition switch in the dash while holding a new ignition key in your hand. Note that the switch has a built-up "shoulder" that "grabs" an elevated portion of the key. If this shoulder is worn the new keys may not survive the strong twist in the switch especially if they are brass or bendable alloy.

Hardened key blanks are available but push-button starter switch is a lot cheaper.

Is the AC R12 with a York compressor?

George Dill
The AC compressor is a R12 York, I believe, yes. There was no appreciable freon in it when i checked the Schraeder valve today, just oil. Today the fan blades started tapping the AC compressor, actually chipping the blades a bit in the process. I immediately pulled over and just removed the accessory belt to the compressor to keep it from shaking its way into the path of the fan. Upon closer examination it looked as if the fan blades had been ground to clear the aftermarket compressor, which sits far forward. Well, the compressor is already as aft as it can go so I need to make a decision there, too: smaller compressor or no AC. Fan with thinner blades, maybe?

The ignition key can be completely removed from the ignition switch at any position and the key wants to come out on its own. I can literally insert the key, turn it to start, and then pull the key out from the switch with the car still running. Interesting.

Gotta find that coolant leak, too...
 

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The AC compressor is a R12 York, I believe, yes. There was no appreciable freon in it when i checked the Schraeder valve today, just oil. Today the fan blades started tapping the AC compressor, actually chipping the blades a bit in the process. I immediately pulled over and just removed the accessory belt to the compressor to keep it from shaking its way into the path of the fan. Upon closer examination it looked as if the fan blades had been ground to clear the aftermarket compressor, which sits far forward. Well, the compressor is already as aft as it can go so I need to make a decision there, too: smaller compressor or no AC. Fan with thinner blades, maybe?

The ignition key can be completely removed from the ignition switch at any position and the key wants to come out on its own. I can literally insert the key, turn it to start, and then pull the key out from the switch with the car still running. Interesting.

Gotta find that coolant leak, too...
The AC compressor location is dependent on pulley alignment with the other pulleys so the belt will run on a single plane. The existing compressor may have a pulley shaft which allows adjustment of the pulley which would then allow a small relo of the compressor which...

Consider a full redo of the AC system to include a modern rotary compressor and R134a.

A new ignition switch with keys is available but you just paid for new keys to fit the worn-out switch so the push-button starter switch mod appears to be in order. You would still use the existing ignition switch in the "ON" position but then use the push-button to engage the starter.

Coolant leak - water pump seeping, hose connection leaking, cracked hose on expansion jug connections, fan hit radiator and/or hose, small fissure in head gasket, water pump O-rings improperly installed and/or wrong thickness, heater core leaking, incorrect radiator cap and/or expansion jug cap, intermittent leak at rigid pipe into water pump, notorious Miami Antifreeze thief...

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The AC compressor location is dependent on pulley alignment with the other pulleys so the belt will run on a single plane. The existing compressor may have a pulley shaft which allows adjustment of the pulley which would then allow a small relo of the compressor which...

Coolant leak - water pump seeping, hose connection leaking, cracked hose on expansion jug connections, fan hit radiator and/or hose, small fissure in head gasket, water pump O-rings improperly installed and/or wrong thickness, heater core leaking, incorrect radiator cap and/or expansion jug cap, intermittent leak at rigid pipe into water pump, notorious Miami Antifreeze thief...

George Dill
Yeah, that compressor was run by a belt that went over a pulley which was not true. I removed the pulley altogether and will remove the compressor after I get her back from the fab shop who is fixing my rust problems.

So, if I'm following you correctly, the solution to the coolant leak is very simple and straightforward...
 

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...the solution to the coolant leak is very simple and straightforward...
Yes, indeed.

Once the car is back and parked level over a dry garage floor lay out some clean flat cardboard underneath and let the car cool overnight.

Fill the radiator and expansion jug to spec then crank 'er up to a hot idle then turn the heater to max.

Once the idling engine reaches max temp shut down the motor but leave the heater running for about one minute.

Now with everything turned off (heater contol valve should still be open) arm yourself with a bright sharp beam flashlight and go hunting.

The cooling system will be lowering from near-max pressure and over many minutes you should see the expansion jug level lessen.

Most leaks will show during this dance to include wet carpet underlayment near the heater control valve and heater core.

Check all coolant hoses that pass through the firewall especially under any firewall grommets.

As a last resort borrow your neighbor's cat...

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Will do.

One question, though: regarding the dash heater control, is it the lever-up or lever-down position that is maximum temperature? Owners manual doesn't clearly specify.
 

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Will do.

One question, though: regarding the dash heater control, is it the lever-up or lever-down position that is maximum temperature? Owners manual doesn't clearly specify.
Down.

Look closely at the areas touching the lever mechanism - any arrows or symbols?

George Dill
 

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Looking here...

http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/Volvo_1800_dokumentation_main_page_en.php

...and scrolling to this pic...

http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/instruktionsbok_small.jpg

...titled: "Instruction book/Owners manual 1800 E ES Word 6.0MB"

Once you are on a system with Microsoft Word capability right-click on the word "Word" then save as a Word document on your desktop.

Right-click on the saved doc and open with Microsoft Word.

It will appear as if all or most pages are blank - not so. Each page takes a few seconds to load up.

Heater controls are on page 14.

Enjoy!

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Thanks guys.

Regarding the push button start, is it necessary or advisable to install a system with adjustable crank time? I would like to install something very clandestine, no LEDs or other such addenda.
 

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Thanks guys.

Regarding the push button start, is it necessary or advisable to install a system with adjustable crank time? I would like to install something very clandestine, no LEDs or other such addenda.
The new starter button would not be hidden as such and is a generic OTC item at any parts house just be sure the switch is rated high enough to carry the electrical energy to the starter. The crank time depends on how long you press the button.

The anti-theft system (recommended) can be as simple as a hidden kill switch or the expensive satellite-based recovery setups (lusted-after cars are lifted up on flatbeds using rented brick delivery trucks).

On cars with an inside bonnet release and lockable doors a disconnected negative battery cable is a good idea. A cigar lighter-based alternate power supply keeps the anti-theft system energized.

George Dill
 

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DoctorDel, I've got a woodgrain dash panel you can have that would make a good template if you decide to go the aluminum route. I originally intended to recreate it in brushed aluminum, but the project rusted away before I could complete it :) I'm in Davie FL, so all it would cost you is a short drive...
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
DoctorDel, I've got a woodgrain dash panel you can have that would make a good template if you decide to go the aluminum route. I originally intended to recreate it in brushed aluminum, but the project rusted away before I could complete it :) I'm in Davie FL, so all it would cost you is a short drive...
Chris, thanks for your thoughtfulness. I would sincerely appreciate that piece.

If you don't mind call or text me and I will hop on the 95 south.

5six1-nine2six-33two7

Brandt
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Ah, the pleasantries of antique ownership...

So I get the ES back from Fab-X in West Palm Beach, and the wiper switch turns them on but, after the shower has passed, will not turn the wipers off. The switch does not catch and detent went you push it into the up (off) position. I wound up just unplugging the connector while I was driving.

Then, tonight while driving back from the hospital, the dash panel lights go out and stay out. The headlamps and all other external lights work, as do their indicator lamps on the dash. All gauges are working. The courtesy lights are working. But the dash panel lights and map lights ain't. I quick look at the wiring diagram and the fuse box and no obvious culprit can be determined at 1am so this will be yet another project for another day...
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
to the list I will add:

The gearshift lever is made of chromed steel, I believe, and it gets pretty warm when driving. I can touch it without any pain but it still seems a bit excessive. I spoke with Chris (from Davie; thanks again, Chris) and he mentioned the possibility of insufficient tranny oil so that will be my first check tomorrow. There is no driveline noise or shuddering or funny/loud/abnormal noises coming from the tranny and it seems to be functioning well...
 

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to the list I will add:

The gearshift lever is made of chromed steel, I believe, and it gets pretty warm when driving. I can touch it without any pain but it still seems a bit excessive. I spoke with Chris (from Davie; thanks again, Chris) and he mentioned the possibility of insufficient tranny oil so that will be my first check tomorrow. There is no driveline noise or shuddering or funny/loud/abnormal noises coming from the tranny and it seems to be functioning well...
This being a recent purchase my take would be to drain the trans/od, clean/replace any filters then refill with the recommended lube/oil which is ______?

On the wiper switch and dead dash lights - this being a "sudden" event I'm thinking water in an electrical junction and/or relay.

Spin the fuses lately?

George Dill
 

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The dash lights are on a dimmer built into the headlight switch. Try turning the knob back and forth several times and see if they don't at least show some signs of life. The dimmer is a common failure point, and there are a lot of cars out there with that circuit jumpered around the dimmer.

I don't recall the shifters getting uncomfortably hot. I had an aluminum knob on mine, and it never heated up enough to notice.
 
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