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Great guide thanks OP! Had to fk with fuse 6 on the drivers side dash panel quiet a bit with the upper LEDs but got it all figured out...Used CAD LEDs from superbrightleds.com/ I went with a few cheaper options than what was recommended from the OP but they worked out fine.
 

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I have a 2005 S60R and bought the 1 festoon 578 LED CAN Bus from Super Bright LEDs. This was the recommended bulb and right size according to the original post. I'm having issues getting the LEDs to work.

I know the bulbs work because I can get them to turn on when mounted in the trunk. The dome light connections work because the incandescents still work. When mounted in the front dome light, I've had the LED turn on once, but not stay on. I then replace the LED with the original bulb and have to turn on the car for a moment, then turn it off to get the bulb to go back on. The original bulb will turn off and on without having to turn the car on after that. My guess is I'm resetting something.

I've tried all 4 of the front dome lights with different LEDs and no luck.

Any thoughts? A picture of the bulb in the front passenger side is below.

 

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Try turning them 180 degrees. I had a similar issue with my footwell LEDs due to bulb polarity- flipped them around and they worked fine.

Also, try to manually switch the lights on by pressing the buttons on the remote and overhead lights. I thought my reading lights didn't work for a second until I remembered that I had to switch the light on first.
 

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Try turning them 180 degrees. I had a similar issue with my footwell LEDs due to bulb polarity- flipped them around and they worked fine.

Also, try to manually switch the lights on by pressing the buttons on the remote and overhead lights. I thought my reading lights didn't work for a second until I remembered that I had to switch the light on first.
Thanks for the input. Unfortunately, that's not it, but I did make some good progress in figuring out what the issue might be. Any other suggestions are welcome.

When I touch the LEDs to the contacts, the LED lights up. This happens both in the front and rear dome lights. The level of brightness is based on how I move the LEDs around on the contacts. I definitely notice something being tripped or shorted when the bulb is all the way in the contacts. Is it possible the heat sink is too large, could be closing the circuit and taking the power from lighting the LED? See the image below.

Click to view full size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
Is it possible the heat sink is too large, could be closing the circuit and taking the power from lighting the LED?
Yes, that is possible (and very likely). You need to make sure there is no way that the heatsink could "short out" the terminals.

Some things to try:
(1) use two short pieces of heat shrink tube to cover the heatsink near the ends of the bulb
(2) cut a strip of electrical tape the width/length of the bulb and lay it in the holder
(3) as a last resort, file down the heatsink
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
I have a 2005 S60R and bought the 1 festoon 578 LED CAN Bus from Super Bright LEDs. This was the recommended bulb and right size according to the original post. I'm having issues getting the LEDs to work.
BTW, while it is the right size, that is NOT the bulb recommended in the OP. You do not need to use a "CANBUS" bulb (meaning integrated resistor) for this application. It uses the same amount of power, and actually produces more heat, than the incandescent version. The heatsink is for the resistor, not the LED! As it says on the product website:

CAN Bus bulbs should not be used in non CAN Bus applications
There is no current monitoring on that circuit, so no need to use a resistor.
 

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Thanks for the help! The heat sink was definitely the issue. I chose to return the LEDs with the heat sink instead of filing them down and instead get the 578 9 LED festoon. It has a bit of a glow, but I'd rather solder a small resistor to the bulb to get it to go out immediately than shave down a heat sink.
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
These are the T4 Neowedge bulbs for the CCM.

a. White base with blue rubber housing (for green glow)
b. Grey base
c. ebay LED white
d. ebay LED white with frosted finish from nail file
e. ebay SMD LED white

I frosted the bulb because they are quite directional. Frosting did help diffuse the light but not to my full satisfaction.


I am yet to test bulb: e
Does anyone have a breakdown on how many T4 bulbs are required for a full conversion (CCM, doors, switches, etc)? If so, I can include it in the guide.
 

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So it is possible to change the lights in the AC controls? I have all of my interior lights done, need to do the trunk and license plate lights, but I HAVE done my DRLs, just haven't put the resistors in (as the bulb failure warning doesn't really bother me that much)
 

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Oh man I'm gonna have to try this as soon as I can drive the car again. I want LED's just in everything really, also I'm doing dual rear fog LEDs, I wired up the right side, with two standard bulbs it overloads the circuit and the car just refuses to turn them on, but with LED's it worked fine, and if I remember correctly there was no bulb failure.
 

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Finished the resistor wiring in my tail lights, so it's 100% LED (SMD towers) for all rear lights. I managed to use a bunch of 25ohm resistors I had, and made it work.

From memory:
• Rear fog was ok with 25ohm
• Turn signals were ok with 25ohm each, though to be very specific, this is also with LED side mirror lights.
• Brake lights didn't work with 25ohm, needed to parallel down to 12.5ohm which works.
• Marker lights don't need resistors
• The four tail lights don't need resistors

This is in a 2007 S60R, for reference. Happy to have all the errors gone now!
 

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Finished the resistor wiring in my tail lights, so it's 100% LED (SMD towers) for all rear lights. I managed to use a bunch of 25ohm resistors I had, and made it work.

From memory:
• Rear fog was ok with 25ohm
• Turn signals were ok with 25ohm each, though to be very specific, this is also with LED side mirror lights.
• Brake lights didn't work with 25ohm, needed to parallel down to 12.5ohm which works.
• Marker lights don't need resistors
• The four tail lights don't need resistors

This is in a 2007 S60R, for reference. Happy to have all the errors gone now!
Thought I'd post photos of my rear light setups.
















I agree with the OP in that I don't care to modify the harness itself if at all possible, so I went with modifying the bulb holders instead. A few holes, and some firmly placed connectors along the buses. The small zipties do still allow the holders to clip into place in the lamps, but it's snug.

Where I disagree with the OP is in the area of brightness. These towers are BRIGHT. Granted it's several years since the original post. Also, in the reflectors, the LED arrays make a really cool pattern in the jewel lamps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
Thought I'd post photos of my rear light setups.

I agree with the OP in that I don't care to modify the harness itself if at all possible, so I went with modifying the bulb holders instead. A few holes, and some firmly placed connectors along the buses. The small zipties do still allow the holders to clip into place in the lamps, but it's snug.

Where I disagree with the OP is in the area of brightness. These towers are BRIGHT. Granted it's several years since the original post. Also, in the reflectors, the LED arrays make a really cool pattern in the jewel lamps.
Wow... I never thought to modify the holder. Interesting. Just my $0.02:

First off, yes, the OP (2011) was actually based off of a 2009 version for the P1 chassis. In the 5 years since then LEDs have come a long way - heck there are even production cars with LED headlights now. I would say that there are now LEDs reliable and bright enough to work as brake/turn signals in terms of both lumen output and light distribution in the reflector - especially SMD arrays with the 100ma devices as you have pictured.

Second, I'm still not a fan of resistors, but it's on theoretical grounds more than anything else. I hate knowing that that power is being wasted. But that's just me - and it was being wasted before too (in the bulb filament) so you're really not losing anything - it's just nice when you can save energy = more power to the ground ;)

Third, I would be nominally concerned about mounting power resistors with zip ties/to plastic unless you've made temperature measurements after extended operation. Resistors can get quite hot and can easily melt through plastic depending on the power being dissipated. The bulbs got hot too, but most of the heat is dissipated through the glass envelope via convection in the air within the housing, rather than through the metal base. Also, wedging a crimp connector under the metal conductor is a nobel effort, but you should really use a positive mechanical connection (like a pop-rivet or even just fold the lug around on both sides) to ensure it can't work itself loose as metal has a different expansion coefficient than the plastic.

Finally, because the BOW is being suppressed by resistors, you no longer have an indication of bulb failure. So do check your lights occasionally to make sure they still work - I've had many friends end up with tickets this way.

Anyway, good work - and completely reversible. I like it.
 

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I hear your points. Ideally, I would have the CEM and REM reprogrammed to watch for LED voltages. My REM does not have shunts, so that doesn't work.
And XemodeX hasn't responded to my inquiry as to whether this is even possible.

On the resistance side of things, using the highest ohm possible will reduce the amperage, and thereby the heat (and also system "drag"). Also note that the tail lights don't require resistors so the only bulb that might stay on for an extended period is the rear fog(s).

I absolutely agree with your point about my wedging the connector. If given the time (and working temperature), I would have drilled small holes and screwed the connector into place. That was the original concept, anyhow.
 

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Just to update on the resistor performance. I ran my rear fog for about 30 minutes and it was very hot, but I could still gently handle it and there was no apparent effect on the plastic bulb holder or zipties. Just wanted to report in...
 

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Hey guys, new to the forum as I just bought an 04 R two weeks ago, so have been lurking here for a few weeks now. Has anyone ever heard of anyone putting an infrared bulb in the unused reverse fog light? It could probably could be made easily enough by modifying a LED 1156. I was thinking it may add brightness to a reverse camera and wouldn't dazzle any drivers. Just a thought, flame away if it's a bad idea!
 
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