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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
<h1>Full Volvo P2 S60 and V70 (2000-2009) LED conversion thread</h1>

Have a P1 (S40/V50 2004.5+, C30, V70N)? Check out my P1 S40/V50 LED conversion thread!

The following interior and exterior bulbs can be changed without modifying the car or tripping any warning lights/messages. All part numbers correspond to products sold by superbrightleds.com, who I highly recommend - though they might be a little more expensive, after ordering hundreds of bulbs from them I've never gotten a bad one. There is an interior kit available from Eurosport Tuning here, I can't vouch for the quality/brightness/consistency of their bulbs.

On to the list! Format is:
#x type (year) [superbrightleds.com part number] notes

<p>
==============================
<h1>Interior</h1>==============================

<p><b>Front Overhead Lights</b> (aka "Map Lights" or "Reading Lights")
4x 42mm festoon (all) [4210-xHP3 (3 LED) <u>or</u> 4210-xHP6 (6 LED)] *1*

<p><b>Rear Overhead Lights</b>
2x 42mm festoon (all) [4210-xHP3 (3 LED) <u>or</u> 4210-xHP6] reference

<p><b>Glovebox</b><br/>
1x ba9s 2w (all) [BA9s-xHP9 (8 LED)] *2*

<p><b>Front Foot Well Lights</b>
2x 37mm festoon (all) [3710-xWHP3 (3 LED)]

<p><b>Trunk Light</b>
2x 37mm festoon (all) [3710-xHP3 <u>or</u> 4210-xHP3 (3 LED)? ]*3*

<p><b>Vanity Mirror Lights</b> (aka "Sun Visor" lights)
4x 6x31mm festoon-SV5.5 (all) [F30-WHP-12V]

*1* Note: 42mm festoon is AKA 6411. Do <b><font color="red">NOT</font></b> order "578 LED CAN Bus Bulb" as the heatsink will short out the festoon contacts.
*2* Note: ba9s is AKA 17053
*3* Note: may require bending the tabs a little for proper fit. 37mm is per reference
<p>
==============================
<h1>Exterior</h1>==============================

<p><b>License plate</b>
2x 194 (all) [WLED-xHP (1 LED) <u>or</u> WLED-xHP5 (5 LED) <u>or</u> WLED-xHP9-T (9 LED)] reference1 reference2

<p><b>Running lights - headlamp</b> (AKA "Front Side Markers")
2x 194 AMBER (all) [WLED-xHP (1 LED) <u>or</u> WLED-xHP5 (5 LED) ]

<p><b>Mirror turn signals</b>
2x 194 AMBER (all) [WLED-xHP5 (5 LED)]

<p><b>Puddle Lights</b>
2x 194 WHITE (all) [WLED-xHP9-T (9 LED)] reference

<p>
==============================
<h1>Bulb Guide</h1>==============================

<p><b><font color="red">NOTE:</font></b> Most products from superbrightleds.com can be either "cool" or "warm", you probably want "cool". Warm looks more like the incandescent bulbs we are trying to replace.</p>
<p><b><font color="red">NOTE:</font></b> All bulbs listed above can be changed without triggering warning lights and do not require modification to the vehicle. Lights <b>not</b> recommended for LED conversion include:<ul>
<li>Brake lights - These will trigger "bulb failure" warning if used without a resistor (and harness modification). IMO they generally look bad because high-power LEDs don't fill the reflector properly, and large clusters of "standard" LEDs produce so little light they are a safety hazard. True brake light conversion requires modification of the taillight housing, see juve021's thread for the right way to do it.</li>
<li>Running lights - Also trigger "bulb failure" warning if used without a resistor (and harness modification). Same reflector issues as brake lights.</li>
<li>Turn signals - Will trigger fast flashing (to indicate burnt out bulb) and bulb failure warning if used without a resistor (and harness modification). Turn signal functionality is built into the CEM (central electronic module) which communicates over a computer bus to the turn signal stalk switch so there is no way to add an "electronic flasher" to overcome this problem. Similar reflector issues to the brake lights, turn signals also look bad with LEDs. </li>
<li>Reverse lights - I have not seen a drop-in LED bulb that is capable of producing more light than an <a href="http://store.candlepower.com/reli.html" TARGET="_blank">upgraded halogen bulb reverse bulb</a> which output around 600 lumen each. LEDs this powerful do exist and are available with matched reflectors in <a href="http://www.batteryjunction.com/olight-m30-triton-scap.html" TARGET="_blank">high powered LED flashlights</a> but that would be $100+ per bulb and still require modification of the housing. Off all the bulbs in the car, I look at this as the least critical since it's on for maybe 30 seconds - of which light output is significantly more important that aesthetic considerations. </li>
<li>Rear fog - If you think about driving around with the rear fog on makes you look cool you're an idiot. If you actually use the rear fog in low-visibility conditions, and want to increase it's light output for safety reasons, then look at the <a href="http://store.candlepower.com/reli.html" TARGET="_blank">upgraded halogen bulb reverse bulb</a> which fits in the fog socket as well.</li>
</ul>

<p>Here's some pictures of the bulbs for reference, thanks to <A HREF="http://www.superbrightleds.com/" TARGET="_blank">superbrightleds.com</A>:

<p><h2>194 (L2R: 1 LED, 5LED, 9LED, 15LED):</h2><br />
<IMG SRC="http://www.superbrightleds.com/images/store/wled-whp.jpg" BORDER="0">
<IMG SRC="http://www.superbrightleds.com/images/store/wled-xhp5.jpg" BORDER="0">
<IMG SRC="http://www.superbrightleds.com/images/store/wled-whp9.jpg" BORDER="0">
<IMG SRC="http://www.superbrightleds.com/images/store/wled-whp15.jpg" BORDER="0">

<p><b><font color="red">NOTE:</font></b> 194 = 168 = 5W5. Most LEDs are sold as 194.

<p><b><font color="red">NOTE:</font></b> Some cheaper 194 bulbs have poor socket contacts - many times just a small piece of wire. Over dozens of cars and hundreds of bulbs that I have installed, around 50% of 194 bulbs don't work the first time they are installed in the socket. If you are sure that the polarity is correct and the socket has power, try bending the leads to make better contact with the holder. Occasionally I've used a bit of a paper clip or a copper wire (18 or 16 AWG, solid not stranded) to shim the bulb into making contact. If all else fails (and you're sure the bulb isn't defective, you can try adding a blob of solder to the wire lead and flatting it with a pair of pliers.

<p><h2>3710-xWHP3 and 4210-xHP3 (3 LED) SV8.5 Festoon:</h2><br />
<IMG SRC="http://www.superbrightleds.com/images/store/HPfestoons.jpg" BORDER="0">

<p><h2>3710-xWHP6 and 4210-xHP6 (6 LED) SV8.5 Festoon:</h2>
<br /><IMG SRC="http://www.superbrightleds.com/images/store/HPfestoons_ww.jpg" BORDER="0">

<p><h2>F30-WHP-12V (1 LED) 6x31 SV5.5 Festoon:</h2>

<b><font color="red">NOTE:</font></b> The SV5.5 has a smaller contact barrel diameter (6mm) than "standard" SV8.5 festoons (8.65mm, 10mm or 11mm body) used in the other lights<br />

<p><br />If you order everything from superbrightleds.com it comes out to around $150. This is the best option if you just want it to work the first time. Many have saved money on fleeBay but most of the stuff ships directly from Hong Kong or China and can take weeks or months to arrive. I have also found that the cheaper bulbs use smaller resistors to achieve higher output, at the expense of LED life, and can burn out as quickly as a few months (especially in the headlight housing, which reaches high temperatures). The cheap ones also usually have poor color consistency between bulbs. You get what you pay for!

<p>
==============================
<h1>LED Retrofit Troubleshooting</h1>==============================

<p>Before you post with a problem run down these checklists.

<p><b>Just installed new LED bulb and it won't light up:</b><ol>
<li>Check power - it sounds obvious do it anyway. Plug the incandescent bulb back in to make sure the socket is energized. Try to have the car leave the bulb on, for example using the running light switch rather than pushing the city light button on the remote. </li>
<li>Check polarity - Most "economy" and some expensive LED bulbs are polarized, meaning that they will only work if the positive and negative terminals are connected the right way. Some LED bulbs are not marked. Flip bulb around 180 degrees in socket so the contacts are reversed.</li>
<li>Check bulb functionality - Using alligator clips or similar, apply 12V directly (from the battery terminals, or whatever) to the bulb contacts. If you can't get the bulb to light up, it is probably defective.</li>
<li>Check the bulb contacts. As noted above, some cheaper 194 bulbs have crummy contacts that need some love to make a decent connection. If you do figure out a way to make it work, make sure that it won't fall out with vibration, heat, etc.</li>
<li>Make sure the circuit is not monitored. Monitored circuits in the S40 include brake, front/rear running, turn, and low beam.</li>
<li>Festoon Bulbs: Check to make sure the contacts are not being shorted by part of the bulb (e.g. a large metal <b>heat sink</b>). </li>
</ol>

<p><b>LED bulb has been running for a while, but now won't light up</b><ol>
<li>Check connection - bulb and socket are subject to vibration and may become loose</li>
<li>Check power - Plug an incandescent bulb back in to make sure the socket is energized. If it does not, make sure the switch is on and the fuse has not blown, etc. </li>
<li>Check bulb functionality - Using alligator clips or similar, apply 12V directly (from the battery terminals, or whatever) to the bulb contacts. If you can't get the bulb to light up, it is probably defective. This happens pretty often with cheap bulbs in the city lights, since they live next to the high-beams which dump a lot of heat out. Either buy better bulbs or buy a lot of cheaper ones. Also, twice I've gone to the dealer and left with a burnt out city light. Don't know if it's something they hook the car to or what. Very annoying since they offer to replace it with an incandescent..</li>
</ol>

<p><b>LED has dim glow when off</b><ol>
<li>This is an issue with the P2, it will not drain the battery since the lights go out after the main relay disengages</li>
<li>Fix is to install a resistor in parallel with the bulb, see http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?151755-LED-Interior-Lights-Install-and-Photos</li>
</ol>

<p>
==============================
<h1>Installation Tips</h1>
==============================

<b>*</b>The front overheads can be tricky to get at the first time. There is a flip-down cover by the rear-view mirror that hides the screw:<br/>
<img height="400" src="http://www.theeshadow.com/files/volvo/s60lights1.jpg"/> <br/>

<b>*</b> The puddle lights can be tricky as well. Slide a screwdriver in under the mirror to disengage the clip:<br/>

<img src="http://theeshadow.com/files/volvo/s60puddles.jpg"/>

==============================
<h1>Gallery</h1>==============================

suberbright leds by maxenar:


^Rear license plate. LED makes it look classy.


^Interior with map lights all on.


^Interior with only footwell lights on.

NOTE: These photos are taken with no special effects or 'shopping whatsoever.
 

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Just a note.. Be careful with the big 194 tower leds, like the 15 leds ones... If they are too tall they will not fit.

Front footwell lights are festoon.

side turn signals for a 2004 are 194

rear overheads were festoons for my 2004 not 194
 

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I was putting one together myself lol! Thanks for starting it up buddy! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
side mirror guide
Got it, thanks!

Just a note.. Be careful with the big 194 tower leds, like the 15 leds ones... If they are too tall they will not fit.

Front footwell lights are festoon.

side turn signals for a 2004 are 194

rear overheads were festoons for my 2004 not 194
Thanks for the info. Do know what size the footwell festoons are? OLRG says 6418 which should be the shorter (36mm) length.

I have seen the same rear overhead lamp assembly (2 buttons, two reflectors and two 194 bulbs, see this pic) in a 2003 S60 (not R), 2006 S60R, 2001 S40 (1.9t), and 2005 S40 (T5) so I assumed that it was pretty much the standard Volvo part. Do you have any more information on the festoon version?
 

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They should all be 36mm Festoons. All the P2s I have had and parted were all them.

Just ordered Blue 36mm for the XC yesterday.
 

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I am currently trying to get into the side mirrors to replace the underside lights ..
Not as easy as I had thought.

guide:
Took me 5mins for both sides. Even easier if you take the glass off first.
 

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Got it, thanks!



Thanks for the info. Do know what size the footwell festoons are? OLRG says 6418 which should be the shorter (36mm) length.

I have seen the same rear overhead lamp assembly (2 buttons, two reflectors and two 194 bulbs, see this pic) in a 2003 S60 (not R), 2006 S60R, 2001 S40 (1.9t), and 2005 S40 (T5) so I assumed that it was pretty much the standard Volvo part. Do you have any more information on the festoon version?
Hmm.. It's been a while but I Do believe I put in 39mm festoon bulbs in the rear. I can't remember if that was a perfect fit or if they were smaller. If my brain isnt makig it up i think 42mm will fit better. Footwells are smaller indeed because the 39mm ones were only a tad bigger.. I had to modify the holder a little to get the 39mm in there. So 37mm sounds accurate. If it
Comes to it and no one can confirm, I'll take it apart in a day or so and take a pic.
 

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Also.. The trunk bulb size is the same as the footwell. And the running lights... If you are referring to the turn signals in the headlight they are 1157 iirc not 194 The drls are hb4a or 9006xs. You can fit a regular 9006 in there too.. Just a little harder to put in.
 

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Hmm.. It's been a while but I Do believe I put in 39mm festoon bulbs in the rear. I can't remember if that was a perfect fit or if they were smaller. If my brain isnt makig it up i think 42mm will fit better. Footwells are smaller indeed because the 39mm ones were only a tad bigger.. I had to modify the holder a little to get the 39mm in there. So 36mm sounds accurate. If it
Comes to it and no one can confirm, I'll take it apart in a day or so and take a pic.
Not sure I just order all of one size and go ...
 

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I can confirm that up front, all four bulbs have to be 42mm long. Changed that already. Looks way much better now.
 

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Do the interior lights dim up/down pretty good? Flickering issues?
 

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So who will be the first to offer an all included conversion kit for a reasonable price? I think someone could make a few bucks off each kit. Once you have done the install, buying bulk bulbs and sorting would be easy.
 

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So who will be the first to offer an all included conversion kit for a reasonable price? I think someone could make a few bucks off each kit. Once you have done the install, buying bulk bulbs and sorting would be easy.
Doesn't EST already have a full LED conversion kit?
 

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Yes, I guess your correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I can confirm that up front, all four bulbs have to be 42mm long. Changed that already. Looks way much better now.
Cool, got it, thanks.

Doesn't EST already have a full LED conversion kit?
Yep - I added a link to that as well. That kit is interior only though. Also not quite sure of the quality of that particular kit, I love EST but electronics aren't their thing. SBLEDs has made consistently good stuff for almost 10 years.
 
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