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Just a note, your MPG measurements would not be affected by a leaking injector, this is because ECU just uses the sent out injector opening times to calculate fuel consumption. Your real MPG would however be affected.

Do you have any fault codes? Like misfire on one cylinder? I probably have a injector fully open right now on my engine and it runs like crap and spits out unburnt fuel into the exhaust.

it is really easy to take of fuel rail, I did it earlier today and swapped two injectors. It took like 5min to get it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Just a note, your MPG measurements would not be affected by a leaking injector, this is because ECU just uses the sent out injector opening times to calculate fuel consumption. Your real MPG would however be affected.

Do you have any fault codes? Like misfire on one cylinder? I probably have a injector fully open right now on my engine and it runs like crap and spits out unburnt fuel into the exhaust.

it is really easy to take of fuel rail, I did it earlier today and swapped two injectors. It took like 5min to get it off.
Good to know it's easy to take off. That gives me some hope. And thanks for the note about MPG measurements—I didn't know that's how it is calculated.

Just today, within a short 5-mile round-trip drive, the mileage dropped down to 15.7 MPG from 15.9. Not sure if this is because I was driving it while it was cold, but thought I should log it here in this thread.

I don't have any visible fault codes (CEL on the dash, etc.) but I can plug in VIDA tomorrow and see what it spits out. I have new plugs, coils, and a fuel filter that I'll be installing this Tuesday. Fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Bought a set of Bosch injectors from RockAuto, should be arriving today. I'm really hoping the injectors are not a difficult job.

I did the spark plugs on Tuesday and found that cylinder #2's spark plug well had some oil in it, and the threads on the spark plug for cylinder #2 were coated in oil. All other cylinders were completely dry and were rather white-ish, kind of like ash. Here's a pic of those 4 plugs: New item by Shudhant Gautam I assume that this means they were running a bit lean? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I also did brand-new ignition coils with the spark plugs, as well as a new fuel filter. The car had 114k miles on it and the factory original fuel filter. Hard to believe but unfortunately true. Could it be possible that the old fuel filter was not able to efficiently filter the fuel anymore and thus clogged up the injectors with contaminated/dirty fuel? Just a theory.

There is no difference to the mileage of the car, as far as I can tell. But I haven't driven it enough just yet. Probably have put ~10 miles on it since I did all this work on Tuesday. The DIM shows the average is 15.6 MPG now, which is a steady drop from the 15.8 I was reporting just a week or so ago.

I will try to get these injectors in as soon as possible and am really sincerely hoping that I don't have any more issues after this.

Thanks, everyone and happy holidays.
 

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I once again am making a new thread for this but I haven't been able to find anyone with similar symptoms as mine or an explanation for whatever is happening to my R.

Car: 2004 S60R M66, 113,8xx miles, Pacific NW owned, always used synthetic oil, have been using regular fuel (not premium)

The issue:
  • At an inspection several weeks back, the technician took out the drain plug to get some oil to fall out, and upon smelling it, he said it smelled like fuel. I also smelled it, and it was indeed fuel in the oil. Since then, I did an oil change last Tuesday, November 23rd with Liqui Moly Special Tec 5W-30 Full Synthetic.
  • My mileage used to hover around 16.3-16.6 MPG, but about a week and a half ago, it dropped to 16.0 MPG and it has not gone up nor down since then. Even when driving like a granny, or on a highway. Before, when I used to commute to work via the highway, it would raise the mileage by about 0.1-0.2 MPG by the time I got there, but now it literally doesn't budge from 16.0 MPG.
  • The garage REEKS of fuel after I come and park it in there after driving it. Doesn't matter what time of day; cold mornings or warm evenings. It smells like fuel and I 100% know it's the R because as soon as I take it out, or if I don't drive the car, the garage no longer smells like gas.
  • The underbelly of the car looks nearly fully dry and I can't seem to find any leaks.
So I did a search on SS, right? And a few things came up. The most common issue that fit my symptoms was the recall for the fuel pump on 01-04 S60's sold in specific regions. Here's the link with more info on this recall: Recall 220. Excited, I call my local dealer and they say my R wasn't covered in the recall.

In conclusion, I'm back to square one. I'm not sure what to do, but I'm really hoping you all can help me out here. I'm thinking of ordering a PEM relocation harness from FCP Euro to prevent any PEM issues in the future. That reminds me, does my R have the steel tank?? How can I tell? Is this even going to fit my 2004 S60R?

Any and all advice is appreciated. Happy holidays.
fuel in oil
1. how long between changes?
2. Do you make a ton of short trips? Short trips in cold weather?
3. Leaky injector
4. Stuck/sticking valve
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
fuel in oil
1. how long between changes?
2. Do you make a ton of short trips? Short trips in cold weather?
3. Leaky injector
4. Stuck/sticking valve
1. Just got the car, did an oil change myself at about 2,900 miles after the PO did his last oil change. I am shooting for a 3,000 mile oil change interval. Is that good? Looking at the previous service history of the car, it looks like the oil changes intervals averaged anywhere from 4,000 to 9,000 miles, the higher intervals present towards the more recent service of the car.
2. TON of short trips. Every morning 7:30 AM - 7:45 AM is 4 miles to school, then another 4 miles to a second school, then 8 miles all the way back home = 16 miles per day STANDARD. Then there's other things, so I'd say I average about 18-22 miles per day. Lately Portland, OR has been seeing abnormally cold weather. Car is garaged. PO did not garage it but I do. Short trips: so much so, that the mechanic that inspected my car said my battery isn't able to properly get up to nearly full charge because of the short trips I make. Is that even normal? I mean, 16 miles per day... the car does have a stereo system with a 10" subwoofer, two amps, etc.
3. Already addressing it --> new injectors come in today. Replacing all 5 ASAP.
4. So... what does that mean? New engine needed? Rebuild? It's not running really rough or knocking or anything visually/audibly bad. It can't mean a stuck valve, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
it is really easy to take of fuel rail, I did it earlier today and swapped two injectors. It took like 5min to get it off.
What instructions did you use? Any YT videos? Or are there instructions in VIDA?
 

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1. Just got the car, did an oil change myself at about 2,900 miles after the PO did his last oil change. I am shooting for a 3,000 mile oil change interval. Is that good? Looking at the previous service history of the car, it looks like the oil changes intervals averaged anywhere from 4,000 to 9,000 miles, the higher intervals present towards the more recent service of the car.
2. TON of short trips. Every morning 7:30 AM - 7:45 AM is 4 miles to school, then another 4 miles to a second school, then 8 miles all the way back home = 16 miles per day STANDARD. Then there's other things, so I'd say I average about 18-22 miles per day. Lately Portland, OR has been seeing abnormally cold weather. Car is garaged. PO did not garage it but I do. Short trips: so much so, that the mechanic that inspected my car said my battery isn't able to properly get up to nearly full charge because of the short trips I make. Is that even normal? I mean, 16 miles per day... the car does have a stereo system with a 10" subwoofer, two amps, etc.
3. Already addressing it --> new injectors come in today. Replacing all 5 ASAP.
4. So... what does that mean? New engine needed? Rebuild? It's not running really rough or knocking or anything visually/audibly bad. It can't mean a stuck valve, right?
Short trips can cause fuel in oil, things don’t get up to temp long enough to ”tighten” things up. There is also more fuel being dumped when cold. Long oil change intervals and all of this compounds. Definitely change every 3k. All of the above can/will be exacerbated by a leaky injector.
 
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Short trips can cause fuel in oil, things don’t get up to temp long enough to ”tighten” things up. There is also more fuel being dumped when cold. Long oil change intervals and all of this compounds. Definitely change every 3k. All of the above can/will be exacerbated by a leaky injector.
Good to hear. Thank you very much, and happy holidays to you!
 

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There is probably some YouTube or other instructions, but it is kind of self explanatory. I did not have the plastic cover (the one with the R) mounted so just do the following:
0. Drain pressure by pressing in on the tire style valve.
1. Remove the two special bolts holding down the fuel rail.
2. remove the small locking bolt for the fuel line connection.
3. remove the fuel line locking plastic by prying it up with your finger on the right hand side of the fuel line.
4. remove all connectors for the injectors and fuel pressure sensor.
5. Now pull the fuel rail up to release injectors from intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
There is probably some YouTube or other instructions, but it is kind of self explanatory. I did not have the plastic cover (the one with the R) mounted so just do the following:
0. Drain pressure by pressing in on the tire style valve.
1. Remove the two special bolts holding down the fuel rail.
2. remove the small locking bolt for the fuel line connection.
3. remove the fuel line locking plastic by prying it up with your finger on the right hand side of the fuel line.
4. remove all connectors for the injectors and fuel pressure sensor.
5. Now pull the fuel rail up to release injectors from intake.
Perfect, thanks! I also just got the official instructions from VIDA. VIDA says to "Lubricate the injector O-ring using a thin layer of petroleum jelly." Is this referring to the top (fuel rail side) or bottom (combustion chamber side) of the injector? Both sides have an O-ring. Also, would 3M silicone grease (this one in specific: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005RNEH5O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) work instead of petroleum jelly?

Thanks for all your help, BTW. This is the first time I'll be doing this so I really want to make sure I have all my bases covered.
 

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Perfect, thanks! I also just got the official instructions from VIDA. VIDA says to "Lubricate the injector O-ring using a thin layer of petroleum jelly." Is this referring to the top (fuel rail side) or bottom (combustion chamber side) of the injector? Both sides have an O-ring. Also, would 3M silicone grease (this one in specific: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005RNEH5O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) work instead of petroleum jelly?

Thanks for all your help, BTW. This is the first time I'll be doing this so I really want to make sure I have all my bases covered.
Just use a little petrol-gel. It only takes a tiny amount.
 
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Perfect, thanks! I also just got the official instructions from VIDA. VIDA says to "Lubricate the injector O-ring using a thin layer of petroleum jelly." Is this referring to the top (fuel rail side) or bottom (combustion chamber side) of the injector? Both sides have an O-ring. Also, would 3M silicone grease (this one in specific: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005RNEH5O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) work instead of petroleum jelly?

Thanks for all your help, BTW. This is the first time I'll be doing this so I really want to make sure I have all my bases covered.
I think that stuff will work, you just need a little bit to make sure O-ring is not damaged or rotated when you mount the injectors. You will need it first on top o-ring before the injector goes into the fuel rail, then on bottom when complete assembly goes into the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
GREAT news! The injectors are in, and I'm very very happy.

Used 3M silicon grease on the injector O-ring seals and installed the injectors successfully, first time. On top of that, I can finally feel the full power of the car under acceleration for the first time in several weeks. On top of that, the car no longer reeks of fuel on startup, shutdown, and storage (in the garage). I can't tell if the fuel in oil smell has gone until I do an oil change.

That leads me to my final question (I hope): should I do an oil change soon rather than at the 3k mile interval, to get rid of the fuel in the oil? Is fuel in the oil bad for the engine internals? What would you all recommend?

Thank you SO much to everyone here, especially @ARATA. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone.
 

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GREAT news! The injectors are in, and I'm very very happy.

Used 3M silicon grease on the injector O-ring seals and installed the injectors successfully, first time. On top of that, I can finally feel the full power of the car under acceleration for the first time in several weeks. On top of that, the car no longer reeks of fuel on startup, shutdown, and storage (in the garage). I can't tell if the fuel in oil smell has gone until I do an oil change.

That leads me to my final question (I hope): should I do an oil change soon rather than at the 3k mile interval, to get rid of the fuel in the oil? Is fuel in the oil bad for the engine internals? What would you all recommend?

Thank you SO much to everyone here, especially @ARATA. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone.
Nice….yes, fuel in the oil is bad. It lowers the viscosity of the oil.
 
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Nice….yes, fuel in the oil is bad. It lowers the viscosity of the oil.
So I should be doing another oil change ASAP, then? Any oil treatments or products that I should use to help clean out the fuel?
 

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Nice job, glad it’s sorted out.

It sucks throwing parts at the problem but now you have a good baseline for future troubleshooting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
Well today I went on a little test drive, no hard accelerations or anything, just a little drive in the snow. I came back and idled in the driveway for about 2 minutes in neutral with my foot on the brake while I checked my phone. After the 2 min idle, I took it into the garage and when I looked back over the driveway, I noticed this: New item by Shudhant Gautam. It looks like a distorted rainbow film-like thing sitting in a small puddle on the driveway. It smells like fuel.

I then checked near the fuel filter/PEM area because I recently changed the fuel filter (before injectors) and I found it to be dry. But I noticed some slight wetness on the body of the fuel tank that is just right behind the PEM/fuel filter, and upon smelling it from my fingertip, it also smelled like fuel. To give perspective, here are a few images that show the area of fuel wetness: 7 new items by Shudhant Gautam. You can see the wet fuel tank in the back very easily.

What could this be... I should've knocked on wood when I said the fuel issue is gone. If I recall correctly, I remember seeing a slight wetness like this on the bottom of the fuel tank before as well, about a month ago when I started this thread. The garage does not (yet) smell like fuel. This is the first time I have seen a puddling of fuel under the car on the driveway. I remember reading about a recall where the fuel pump seal or pipes around it on the top of the tank get damaged from heat cycling/hot climates and cause fuel smell/leakage. Could this be it? I called my local dealer and my S60R is not part of the recall apparently.

Any and all help is appreciated.

EDIT: Here's the recall that I'm referring to in my last paragraph: Recall 220
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Here are two pics of the fuel spillage on the garage floor. First pic is a closeup of the puddle of fuel. Second pic is taken from the entrance to the garage, and the car was reversed out (meaning the car is not reverse-parked in the garage). The second pic is for reference to see where, under the car, the leak is from. It's from right behind the fuel filter, seems to be coming from the top of the fuel tank on the passenger side of the car.


This sucks. Solve one problem and another comes up. I also need to do rear 4C struts now, apparently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I looked at the fuel pump under the driver's side rear seat bench, it looked dry but smelled strongly of fuel fumes: 2 new items by Shudhant Gautam

Issue is that the leak is not from the driver's side of the car, it's from the passenger side. I've read that it could be the fuel level and sender (secondary pump) unit that causes this leak. Does anyone have any insight on this?
 
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