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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll be tackling a fuel-pump replacement on our 2005 V70R this weekend. This is to correct two issues that have happened.

The first one is that occasionally the fuel gauge will not read the fuel level when the car is started. If the car is turned off and on again, then the fuel level usually comes up. As the level is sender is part of the fuel pump (though there is the separate pickup/sending unit, too), I'm hoping the new fuel pump assembly may help with this.

The second issue started happening only recently, and that is the power dropping off at random times, and then kicking back in. This did trip a DTC at one point (for low fuel pressure...0089, I think it was). I did find the PEM still mounted to the front of the fuel tank (so this V70R never had the PEM re-location TSB recommendation performed), but on removing the PEM connector I did NOT see ANY signs of corrosion or water intrusion at the pins. As part of installing the new fuel pump, I will be re-locating the PEM to the interior, though, as an added measure of protection.

Anything else I should be checking while I am in there? I already have the rear seat seatback removed in preparation for the work to be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't have a VIDA, unfortunately, but that's a good point. If the fuel-gauge issue continues to happen after the pump is replaced, I'll have to look into that.

In previous searches, I don't recall seeing anything about the gauge sticking...is this something that's come up and is known, now?
 

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Its not unusual for gauge needles to stick as clusters get old. As our Rs get older there are certain to be a few that may end up doing this. Hopefully its not in your case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So, I replaced the fuel pump (had to use the Pro Parts version, as the Bosch version is no where to be found, right now) and also put in a new fuel filter. I also re-located the FPM to the interior of the wagon (I routed it to the spare tire well) - there was no corrosion on the FPM contacts or other signs of issues.

The first day of driving was without incident, but my wife encountered the stumble again today. So, I've ordered the Fuel Pressure Sensor "FPM 18" from Amazon - it has positive reviews elsewhere here in the forums. I'll post again after some time with the new sensor installed. Oh, and I'll keep the original Bosch fuel pump as a spare, then.

One comment on the Pro Parts version of the fuel pump assembly - the plastic used for the fitting at the base of the fuel pump module and for the remote pickup is white, instead of a bright yellow on the Bosch original version. When connecting the remote pickup to the level sender on the left side tank, the pickup locking tab did not "click" into place. When I tried to position the locking tab so that it would click, it cracked off and I had to add a zip-tie to make sure it stayed secure. This piece is normally pushed against the bottom of the tank, anyway, so I wouldn't be too concerned about it. But, as an observation, the Pro Part white plastic does not seem to be as robust as the Bosch yellow original pieces.
 

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So, I replaced the fuel pump (had to use the Pro Parts version, as the Bosch version is no where to be found, right now) and also put in a new fuel filter. I also re-located the FPM to the interior of the wagon (I routed it to the spare tire well) - there was no corrosion on the FPM contacts or other signs of issues.

The first day of driving was without incident, but my wife encountered the stumble again today. So, I've ordered the Fuel Pressure Sensor "FPM 18" from Amazon - it has positive reviews elsewhere here in the forums. I'll post again after some time with the new sensor installed. Oh, and I'll keep the original Bosch fuel pump as a spare, then.

One comment on the Pro Parts version of the fuel pump assembly - the plastic used for the fitting at the base of the fuel pump module and for the remote pickup is white, instead of a bright yellow on the Bosch original version. When connecting the remote pickup to the level sender on the left side tank, the pickup locking tab did not "click" into place. When I tried to position the locking tab so that it would click, it cracked off and I had to add a zip-tie to make sure it stayed secure. This piece is normally pushed against the bottom of the tank, anyway, so I wouldn't be too concerned about it. But, as an observation, the Pro Part white plastic does not seem to be as robust as the Bosch yellow original pieces.
I used the same pump and it didn't work. I ended up getting an OEM pump and the stumble was gone. Sent the proparts unit back and they admitted they get them back from time to time for not working properly.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the feedback! Since the behavior seems to be exactly the same as before the pump/filter replacement, I'll hold off judgement until after the FPS is replaced. I did get the P0089 code at one point, too, but that's not definitive to the FPS, just fuel pressure in general, from what I've gathered.

But, I'll hang onto the original pump, too, just in case.
 

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This is why its best to throw the cheapest part at your problem instead of the most expensive if you are going to try the throwing parts at an undetermined problem route.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Stealthy S60R, I think I take your meaning to be complimentary to this situation? If yes, it's because this is a failure mode with no clear "silver bullet" to solve it. And, I read many threads of owners going 'round 'n' 'round at the dealer trying to get to the root of similar issues, with each being resolved slightly differently (if people bothered to post their final solution, at all). And all that time in the shop co$t$.

Since I perform almost all of the service on my vehicles, I have grown accustomed that some of the savings is paid back in the parts and time it takes to trouble-shoot the issues on my own (with help from forums like these, of course). The same time (and parts) at dealer shop rates would be un-palatable for me. Besides time and patience, the other thing that makes this possible is always having a back-up vehicle, so that while repairing the other I still have a vehicle to get to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
pdw, did you replace the line from the tank/pump to the filter, or the one from the filter to the fuel rail on the engine (or both)? I was surprised at the pieces of stoney grit and dirt that I saw in the bottom of the tank as I was replacing the pump. What I could see, I tried to remove. **edit: after re-reading your post, it looks like you replaced the line from the tank to the filter**

Which brings me to re-iterating a tip from other threads on fuel pump replacement - MAKE SURE TO TACKLE THIS TASK WHEN THE TANK IS ALREADY ALMOST EMPTY or LOW. I forgot to make sure of that before I started, so I wound up removing about 3 gallons of fuel with a clean soda bottle (squeeze, insert upside-down into the fuel pump cover access/opening, release and suck up fuel, cover the opening with a finger, and then move it to a gas can). It would have been MUCH easier to start with a near-empty tank (at least below 1/4 tank).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So, I went back at it today and replaced the Fuel Pressure Sensor. I ordered the "FPS 18" part from amazon, and here is an image of the old vs. new parts:


The chief difference seems to be the lack of the hole to attach the clip that secures the connector harness to the sensor. There is no difference in the size of the sensors, it just looks that way from the angle that I took the picture.

Also as part of this repair, I blew some air through the fuel lines with a compressor - just in case.

In removing the charge air intake tube from over the top of the engine as part of this repair, I noticed that the PCV pipe was cracked where it passed under the upper engine cover (that hides ignition coils). So, I've ordered a new PCV hose kit, as well, and will likely install that next weekend.
 

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Cool. Let us know how it goes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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As an addition to this thread, same FPS unit is used in Land Rover's. The only difference is the there is no hole to attach the wiring clip to the LR unit, otherwise it is exactly the same FPS for half of the Volvo price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
htomi, yeah, it was the information from other threads here that led me to buy this version of the sensor.

The car has been running well, so far, but I'm limiting the driving of it until the PCV hose kit arrives and I get that all replaced. <-- that - would have been much easier to do had I noticed it over the summer when I was installing the IPD intercooler upgrade :facepalm: Everything would have been out of the way, anyhow, then...
 

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I'm probably late for you but I had this symptoms as well and my Volvo mechanic suggested to replace both sensors. I bought both from fcp and it cured the problem. I did not replace the pump itself - both sensors were clip on (before I went for this I read that I would have to replace an entire pump with sensor).

hope it helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for that feedback. I noticed that the level sensors clip in, as well. The new pump had a new sensor, but on the sensor on the pickup assembly on the driver's side, I removed the level sensor and then cleaned up the contact area where the sensor sweeps as the level changes. But, it's good to know that just the level sensor can be replaced, as well.
 

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Today I had to order a new pump from Skandix.de as my pump is just over the 40% threshold. FPS was replaced a month ago, filter during the big service 2 months ago. Never had issue with the leveling.
The local dealer wanted 374 EUR for the pump unit which comes with the sender unit. Skandix sells the pump for 190 Eur.
There was a sale on a German online store for the Bosch unit. After I placed my order, got an email from their CS dept, that the unit is not available at all and the money has been refunded. So I went with Skandix.
Seems like the Bosch 1582980133 is nowhere to be found.
 

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You NEED to go look in VIDA at your fuel pump's duty cycle. Do this to make sure that you did not kink the crossover line while pulling it through. They can be ridiculously tricky to get through without kinking, and I just and the EXACT same issue. This is also an issue we saw ALL THE TIME at the dealership, sometimes even after a Volvo tech had just put the pump in. If the hose is kinked, it will not fill the surge bucket properly, and you'll lean out on your fuel pressure. This can be catastrophic, especially if it happens when you're hard into the throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That's an interesting point, on the kink in the crossover line. The hesitation did not start right away. I drove it one day, and my wife the next, but it wasn't until the 3rd day that she reported having some hesitation, again. The fuel level could have gotten lower, at that point, and maybe that complicated things. Would the effects of a kink be apparent at any fuel level, or only at lower levels?

Since replacing the FPS, there was no hesitation (with the fuel low, or after filling up, either). But, I haven't put many miles on it since finding that the PCV hose to the valve cover was cracked.

On the VIDA - I've looked into many threads on this before, but I maybe someone can provide a link to a clear explanations of what works - hardware (dongle/cable) and software? I would use this with a laptop running Windows7 Professional. I don't need to look at the newer Volvos, as ours is a 2005. So is there something that works completely standalone - without subscriptions or tie-in to a Volvo server? I'm already using a Ross-tech VAG-CAN diagnostic tool for my VW (cable interface to my laptop), and I'm looking for the same for the Volvo.
 

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Many topics has been opened recently about VIDA. Here is what I've posted recently:

I've used http://www.aliexpress.com/ to buy my VIDA/DICE based on another Forum (matthews) recommendation.
As far as I see its 93 USD inc shipping. Checked and it is compatible/meets the requirement for Hilton Tuning: http://hiltontuning.com/DiCECompatibilityCheck.pdf

Store name: Shenzhen Zeus Technology Co., Ltd.

I have 2014 A and 2014D installed as virtual machines.

Package comes with cables and install media, no need for extra cables.


direct link to the Aliexpress Store: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/NEW-VIDA-DICE-FOR-VOLVO-Diagnostical-Tool-2012A-100-Warranty-in-stock/320461_685864458.html
 
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