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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright guys so I’m starting to go crazy and don’t want to blow up my thread so I’m going to make this one to hopefully help. The issue is as the title states, for some reason the secondary pump is not turning on after the tank gets to the last white line before the red zone on the gauge so I stall when I get there- ask me how I know (thank you road side assistance). I had all my tools with me so I opened up the sender side and I did in fact have gas. I swear the pump did not have this issue the day I put it back together (Tuesday it think) because I was WELL into the red zone before I could get gas and I made it.
What I’ve gathered so far: Fuel pump works, all the sensors work. When I put it in ignition 2, the secondary pump does not turn on to fill the basket. Any ideas? There no way my sender pump coincidentally fails the second I put everything together. I’ll post pics in a bit for reference.
 

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Read through your thread a little bit and I don’t see if you dropped your tank or not? I just went through this whole debacle with replacing my pump with a dw300c. So to make a long story short, when I was working for a Volvo dealership we would regularly drop the tank on p2 cars when replacing fuel pumps. Reason being is brush material or some sort of material from the worn out pumps as well as dirt from entering into the tank will clog the newly installed pumps. Shortly after replacing a fuel pump without dropping and cleaning the tank you will start getting symptoms like you are describing and that’s your pumps getting clogged from the old pump material/dirt from going in the tank. My advice, save yourself a lot of time and headache. Drop your tank, clean it really good. Take apart your pump assembly and inspect the pick up filter screen, you’ll probably have a bunch of crap on it. At this point I would buy an entire new basket assembly (Bosch), and pop the upgraded fuel pump in there. Might need to buy a new pump if it’s really clogged. Put it all back in the tank with it empty and make sure you don’t kink your line like you did before. I went through everything you went through and I work on cars for a living. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Read through your thread a little bit and I don’t see if you dropped your tank or not? I just went through this whole debacle with replacing my pump with a dw300c. So to make a long story short, when I was working for a Volvo dealership we would regularly drop the tank on p2 cars when replacing fuel pumps. Reason being is brush material or some sort of material from the worn out pumps as well as dirt from entering into the tank will clog the newly installed pumps. Shortly after replacing a fuel pump without dropping and cleaning the tank you will start getting symptoms like you are describing and that’s your pumps getting clogged from the old pump material/dirt from going in the tank. My advice, save yourself a lot of time and headache. Drop your tank, clean it really good. Take apart your pump assembly and inspect the pick up filter screen, you’ll probably have a bunch of crap on it. At this point I would buy an entire new basket assembly (Bosch), and pop the upgraded fuel pump in there. Might need to buy a new pump if it’s really clogged. Put it all back in the tank with it empty and make sure you don’t kink your line like you did before. I went through everything you went through and I work on cars for a living. Hope this helps.
Thank you so much. Appreciate the help. Sounds like a lot of pain.
 

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Here is a thread describing more in depth what I’m talking about
 

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What did you replace? I see hose clamps, did you use Bosch pumps? Are you sure that the wires to the ejector pump are in the correct place or not lose? The ejector pump might be running in reverse and not moving any fuel from the left to the right side. The lower fuel pump 6/31 and 6/33 is what you have. 6/31 is the ejector pump that transfers fuel from left to right. 6/33 is the main pump controlled by 4/83 PCM. The E and P pin 2 and 4 are the fuel level senders. Do you have VIDA or an advanced OBD reader to monitor left and right fuel tank levels? There are 2 different wiring diagrams, 2005 and 2007. Check splice 53/578 to make sure that the blue wire going to 6/31 is OK. It should be on top of the fuel pump area. The pics are a 2006 V70 no start that the fuel pump wires were corroded in the connector at the fuel pump access area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What did you replace? I see hose clamps, did you use Bosch pumps? Are you sure that the wires to the ejector pump are in the correct place or not lose? The ejector pump might be running in reverse and not moving any fuel from the left to the right side. The lower fuel pump 6/31 and 6/33 is what you have. 6/31 is the ejector pump that transfers fuel from left to right. 6/33 is the main pump controlled by 4/83 PCM. The E and P pin 2 and 4 are the fuel level senders. Do you have VIDA or an advanced OBD reader to monitor left and right fuel tank levels? There are 2 different wiring diagrams, 2005 and 2007. Check splice 53/578 to make sure that the blue wire going to 6/31 is OK. It should be on top of the fuel pump area. The pics are a 2006 V70 no start that the fuel pump wires were corroded in the connector at the fuel pump access area.
I replaced the fuel pump with a Dw300 fuel pump. The first run the gas station was great (WELL into red) and then two days later I stall below 20%. I checked the PEM connector and It looks pristine. I haven’t checked with vida but senors seem to work because changing the lever changes the fuel gauge. I think the issue is that something isn’t telling the sender to turn on. If I could find what does that, that’d be great I think. The wires were all in the right place but for ****s and giggles I flipped them around to test the sender and is does work so I didn’t burn it out. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think the line is kinked. Again. It’s basically impossible to put it in with out kinking it with the way I spliced it. I’ll have to splice it again with a different type of line because this material is just asking for issues.
 

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I had the same issue. Well, still have. I cant go full throttle with less than 60 miles to empty or it cuts out. I also would blow the fuse to the pump repeatedly. I removed the pump a half dozen times and couldn't find anything electrical to cause it to blow. Also replaced amd relocated the PEM to the trunk with a new oem module and harness. I ended up upgrading the fuse for the pump by 5 amps. That took care of that. But not the cutting out after it got down to 60 miles to empty. I'd pull the pump and yeah there was plenty of gas. I think I'll drop the tank whenever I drop the rear sub frame whenever BNE starts selling those delrin bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had the same issue. Well, still have. I cant go full throttle with less than 60 miles to empty or it cuts out. I also would blow the fuse to the pump repeatedly. I removed the pump a half dozen times and couldn't find anything electrical to cause it to blow. Also replaced amd relocated the PEM to the trunk with a new oem module and harness. I ended up upgrading the fuse for the pump by 5 amps. That took care of that. But not the cutting out after it got down to 60 miles to empty. I'd pull the pump and yeah there was plenty of gas. I think I'll drop the tank whenever I drop the rear sub frame whenever BNE starts selling those delrin bushings.
Man sucks to hear. Clearly I got into more than I’d bargained for. My pem is fine otherwise the fuel pump wouldn’t turn on I know that much. same with the fuse. Gotta be the kink, we’ll see though
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
the filter looks alright, not great but not horrible either. I cleaned the bottom of the basket out as there were a few crummy areas but nothing that’d cause it to stall. Headed to lowes tomorrow to see what kind of line we can do instead
Hand Automotive tire Bicycle part Rim Finger
 

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Use corrugated fuel tube in a loop with oteiker clamps for the DW300c, the rubber line and worm clamps will kink and deteriorate.
 
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Yes, I agree with Lukeflynn. I forgot to mention that as well. The rubber line supplied with the kit will kink when you press the hat into the tank to be secured. Here’s the biggest problems I’ve ran into when doing these. Hopefully others can learn from my mistakes.

1. Kinking the transfer pump lines. As others have already mentioned in this thread, attach a secure line to the transfer line so when you pull out the entire assembly you are left with a clear path to pull the new lines through. There are two paths you can pull the lines through. It would be really hard to pull it through the second path in the tank, and the main pump assembly would not attach to the tank, but none the less one could make this mistake. So do yourself a favor, attach the line and be very careful pulling in and out. If you feel resistance, stop and readjust so it goes through smoothly.

2. Not properly cleaning surrounding areas of the access holes. If you get even the smallest amount of dirt in the tank, you will have problems! They can manifest in many forms. Ultimately the fix for this is dropping the tank, and cleaning thoroughly.

3. Not replacing complete basket assembly (if your car is higher mileage). This has been also mentioned by many other members. It’s better to start with a clean slate. Transfer pumps often get tired, the regulators in the assembly do as well. There are too many variables that can be introduced when using an assembly with 150k + miles. Just replace the entire assembly and save yourself a lot of future trouble.

4. dw300c supplied rubber line. DO NOT USE. Learned this lesson the hard way. The car will start and idle in most cases, but once a higher fuel output is demanded not enough fuel is getting to the rail. S60RR point this out to me. He recommended the corrugated line.
HFP-FH88-220-PX 8mm x 8mm x 220mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BVVTD98?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Mimic the factory loop and you’re good to go. Make sure you gently heat up the line (away from gas tank) and it should slide right on, use supplied clamps. Clamp properly.

5. Level sender issues after pump replacement. You either didn’t replace entire basket assembly, didn’t replace left side sender unit, or you didn’t make sure the floats could move freely after putting the assembly in the tank. The sender units get worn out just like any other part, and in most cases disturbing these units pulls the contact away enough to where they are not making full contact. Make sure to get the tank seals as well for both sides so you don’t get leakage.

6. Wiring and PEM issues. As Volvogod mentioned and displayed, the possibility does exist of wire corrosion to the fuel pump assembly. I see lots of people replacing there PEM after they have issues with the fuel pump, whether they just replaced it or not. Unless your PEM is mounted under the car, this is the last place I would go if your having issues. If your car was running normal before, and you replaced the pump and are having issues, wiring or PEM is most likely not your issue.

if I think of something else I’ll add it here
 

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Does anyone know the difference between the fuel pump assembly 30761744 and 30761745? I know that it depends on the chassis code, but I'm wondering if I was planning on replacing the stock pump with a DW300 anyways, it if matters which I buy. FCP says my car (2004) needs a 44.

I'm asking since you can buy an OE Bosch 45 from FCP for $187, but the only option for the 44 is Volvo OEM at $385.
 

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Does anyone know the difference between the fuel pump assembly 30761744 and 30761745? I know that it depends on the chassis code, but I'm wondering if I was planning on replacing the stock pump with a DW300 anyways, it if matters which I buy. FCP says my car (2004) needs a 44.

I'm asking since you can buy an OE Bosch 45 from FCP for $187, but the only option for the 44 is Volvo OEM at $385.
This is the one you wait
 

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This is the one you wait
FCP says my chassis code needs the 30761744, not that one. If I'm replacing the pump anyways, I'm wondering if it even matters.

I just looked on Skandix, and they have the 44 for 176 Euro, so I might just get that instead.
 
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