Yes, I agree with Lukeflynn. I forgot to mention that as well. The rubber line supplied with the kit will kink when you press the hat into the tank to be secured. Here’s the biggest problems I’ve ran into when doing these. Hopefully others can learn from my mistakes.
1. Kinking the transfer pump lines. As others have already mentioned in this thread, attach a secure line to the transfer line so when you pull out the entire assembly you are left with a clear path to pull the new lines through. There are two paths you can pull the lines through. It would be really hard to pull it through the second path in the tank, and the main pump assembly would not attach to the tank, but none the less one could make this mistake. So do yourself a favor, attach the line and be very careful pulling in and out. If you feel resistance, stop and readjust so it goes through smoothly.
2. Not properly cleaning surrounding areas of the access holes. If you get even the smallest amount of dirt in the tank, you will have problems! They can manifest in many forms. Ultimately the fix for this is dropping the tank, and cleaning thoroughly.
3. Not replacing complete basket assembly (if your car is higher mileage). This has been also mentioned by many other members. It’s better to start with a clean slate. Transfer pumps often get tired, the regulators in the assembly do as well. There are too many variables that can be introduced when using an assembly with 150k + miles. Just replace the entire assembly and save yourself a lot of future trouble.
4. dw300c supplied rubber line. DO NOT USE. Learned this lesson the hard way. The car will start and idle in most cases, but once a higher fuel output is demanded not enough fuel is getting to the rail. S60RR point this out to me. He recommended the corrugated line.
HFP-FH88-220-PX 8mm x 8mm x 220mm...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BVVTD98?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Mimic the factory loop and you’re good to go. Make sure you gently heat up the line (away from gas tank) and it should slide right on, use supplied clamps. Clamp properly.
5. Level sender issues after pump replacement. You either didn’t replace entire basket assembly, didn’t replace left side sender unit, or you didn’t make sure the floats could move freely after putting the assembly in the tank. The sender units get worn out just like any other part, and in most cases disturbing these units pulls the contact away enough to where they are not making full contact. Make sure to get the tank seals as well for both sides so you don’t get leakage.
6. Wiring and PEM issues. As Volvogod mentioned and displayed, the possibility does exist of wire corrosion to the fuel pump assembly. I see lots of people replacing there PEM after they have issues with the fuel pump, whether they just replaced it or not. Unless your PEM is mounted under the car, this is the last place I would go if your having issues. If your car was running normal before, and you replaced the pump and are having issues, wiring or PEM is most likely not your issue.
if I think of something else I’ll add it here
