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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New owner of a 67 122s. Fuel gauge stuck on 1/4 tank. Not having luck finding a thread on possible repairs or issues. Ideas? Guide me to a thread on the subject?

Thanks,

JG
 

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The sender is on the top center of the gas tank. Remove the one wire connected to it, and turn on the ignition. The gauge should peg full. Now ground the wire, and the gauge should peg empty. Turn off the ignition promptly.

If the gauge does that, the gauge and the wiring are good, and the sender is bad, which is the most common failure mode. If the gauge does not do that, we'll troubleshoot further.
 

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If you need a new sender, spend the extra money on the OEM one. I bought the aftermarket version because all the places that sold the OEM one were sold out. It works as it should but the range doesn't exactly meet the depth of the tank. When completely full, it will read about 3/4, and when it shows that your tank is empty, you still have 2-3 gallons of fuel. If you're cool with that, just get the cheaper one because it does function properly but I would assume the OEM one probably fits the tank better.

Also could be that your float is full of gas. I don't know how this happens but it did on my 240. The plastic float was full of gas so it was too heavy to float on top. There was no hole in it and when I removed it, the gas wouldn't come out so I just stuck one from an old VW on there. Either way, I'd probably buy a new sender if the car has been sitting a while with gas in the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Pulled sender, cleaned contacts, hooked up ground wire while out, bent contact tab, tested moving the float (was dry inside) and apears to be working. Mounted in tank, now shows 3/4 full which is approx where I think it should be. Will see if it works for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Not Fixed...yet. Gauge moved a bit, then no movement for a few days around 3/4 tank. Ordered new from IPd. Installed, showed 1/8 tank. Go fill up (4 gallons), gauge moves up to 1/4 tank (as before with old sender)..... Next Step??
 

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You may also not have a sufficient ground on your sender. On more than one I have had to run a ground wire from the sender mounting screw to a tank mounting screw. Too much caulking, I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Connected extra Ground to Fuel sender. still quarter tank reading. Unhook sender wire, Full Tank reading. Reattached ground removed sender, and moved float by hand it goes from empty to quarter tank on full sweep. Got under dash, made sure all connections to gauge are secure and tight, still quarter tank.

Next step? Do I pull the Cluster? Is there a way to inspect and repair the Fuel gauge?

While in instrument cluster is there a repair for Odometer that does not reset to zero?
 

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Connected extra Ground to Fuel sender. still quarter tank reading. Unhook sender wire, Full Tank reading. Reattached ground removed sender, and moved float by hand it goes from empty to quarter tank on full sweep. Got under dash, made sure all connections to gauge are secure and tight, still quarter tank.

Next step? Do I pull the Cluster? Is there a way to inspect and repair the Fuel gauge?
From: (Walrus) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=382954&show_all=1
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Weird gas gauge problems SOLVED! 120-130 1966
posted by someone claiming to be George Downs on Fri Apr 20 14:36 CST 2001 [RELATED]
Most of the kinds of problems you can have with a 122 gas gauge I have had with mine and I was stumped for a while.
I have a wagon and had occasionally had water intrusion into the spare tire well (of which the top of the tank is the floor).
This made a pool in the gas gauge well and got rust on the
wire and partially shorted the sender. Got that fixed.
The resistance wire from the sender came loose on one end.
I managed to take the thing apart and fix that.
Then I started to smell a lot of gas in the car when the tank was full. About the same time it quit again. I replaced the screw that you hook the wire to, re-soldered the other end of the resistance wire to the new screw, got some plastic tubing, washers and gasoline resistant permatex, and everything was fine for a while. Then it quit again. I looked around for a new or used sender but everything I checked seemed to indicate that the sender was OK, and there was power to it also. But the gauge would not indicate. The old Army motto was pretty slow coming into my head - RTCPMS!!*
Well, the trouble shooting guide said that if you disconnect the wire on the back of the gauge that goes to the sender, then turn on the ignition, it should indicate "Full". It did not.
So I got in there and disconnected the other wires (3 wires go to the other terminal) noting that I had a hard time getting the nut off, and that the plastic cap that is supposed to cover the end of the screw had been melted. When I got it out, I noticed that the rubber washer under the nut that holds the screw in place had been melted also and the screw was loose. Also, one of the mounting screws connects a ground strap from the gauge to the panel. The strap was corroded and so was the screw. I managed to clean things up, replaced the melted washers and tightened the "hot" screw (which goes through 3 connectors plus one inside the gauge) so that it would make good internal contact, scraped the ground strap shiny, wire brushed the mounting screws, and connected a wire to the "hot" (+) screw. I touched this to the + terminal of the battery and grounded the ground strap. Voila! It indicated full! (like having the sender wire disconnected). Then I grounded the sender connection and the needle went to "Empty", without passing "Go" or collecting $200. Put it back in the car and it works like a charm.

This is just another example of the kinds of electrical problems common on old Volvos and other European cars - they tend to develop nonconductive corrosion films, sometimes completely transparent and invisible but nonetheless allowing little or no electricity to pass. Finding where the one is that is bugging you without scraping every electrical part in the whole car is sometimes a challenge.

* RTCPMS = Read the Cotton Pickin' MANUAL, Stupid!
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While in instrument cluster is there a repair for Odometer that does not reset to zero?
Best to reset the tripmeter while the car is not moving.

First be sure the brass thumb knob on the reset mechanism is tight on the threaded rod. Then, sitting in the driver's seat and with the right hand, turn the knob CW viewed as if you were on the floor looking up at the knob. If the knob feels loose on the rod continue turning CW until the knob is tight on the rod. Now turn the knob CCW until it stops then CW again until it stops then CCW...
Eventually the tripmeter will show zeros. The odometer can't be reset without disassembly of the cluster.

George Dill
 

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Connected extra Ground to Fuel sender. still quarter tank reading. Unhook sender wire, Full Tank reading. Reattached ground removed sender, and moved float by hand it goes from empty to quarter tank on full sweep. Got under dash, made sure all connections to gauge are secure and tight, still quarter tank.

Next step? Do I pull the Cluster? Is there a way to inspect and repair the Fuel gauge?

While in instrument cluster is there a repair for Odometer that does not reset to zero?
From what I'm reading, if your gauge reads full on disconnect then it's working properly and the problem is still in the sender. Might be a bad one from IPD?

Bust out a voltmeter (if you don't have one you can get one from harbor freight for under $10) and see what voltage is at the gage when it reads 1/4 tank. Likely to be reading about 3 volts. Also check it at the sender, it probably sweeps from 0 to 3 volts. My gut is telling me that when it sweeps 0 to 12 you'll get a full working gage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks, will do the voltage test tomorrow (Thursday) after work. I tightened back of wires on gauge, 3 red seemed loose, but maybe the whole connection is loose.

On odometer I turn knob clockwise until stops, then CCW and I get maybe 20-150 miles added to miles, do again, same thing. I will get in there and make sure shaft is tight as you suggest. Thanks for the input. Jon
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Had 9 volts at back of gauge, guess that meant sender was doing the job since I had filled up a few days ago. so got under dash and removed the fuel gauge and noticed the little coil has loose wires and crumbled plastic mount. I solder the coil to the connection and reinstal, turn key shows 3/4 tank, guess it is workong ok, then turn headlights on (had issue w/tail lamps had just remedied, hoping it still worked), as turn headlights on needle pegs past full. Guessing shorted it out, pulled few more times, checking solder, insulating w/electrical tape, still pegs to full. Tomorrow will try an auxilary gauge I have in a toolbox...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Scored a Fuel gauge from the local Pick and Pull. $7.95. Installed and everthing seems to be working right. Gauge goes up to between 1/2 and 3/4 (where I guess level is) then when key off it slowly goes down to empty. This has nice brass coil vs. black toasty one from original gauge. Now to get odometer working.
 
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