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I got an oil change on my '06 XC90 2.5T - 53.5K Miles and noted the following:

1. F610 Zak Fuel Additive - $20.72
2. C500 Oil Booster - $16.95

Not sure if I did get this in the past and am wondering what value if any will be derived from the above. Are there any dangers of using this, given that this was put in by the dealer.

I also noted that the Oil changed ws 10W30 grade. Is that correct?

Getting around 15~16 miles to a gallon (Regular Grade) and the service advisor recommended using mid-grade. If not available, he recommended Premium.

Please advise.

Regards

SR
 

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I would definitely use premium since you have turbo engine however if you live where ambient temperatures are low year round you maybe fine with a lower octane fuel.
Do not use ANY oil additives.

You could run an over the counter fuel system cleaner periodically but I would only recommend notable name brands -Chevron's Techron, Shell, Redline, Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil; do so within 1-2 weeks before getting an oil change.
Fuel system cleaners can get past rings in the combustion chamber and begin to degrade the engine oil prematurely so wait right before getting an oil change but leave enough time to drive though a tank or 2 of gas to let the fuel cleaner work.
You also want to use them in normal stop and go traffic not before a long highway commute.

I personally use Chevron's Techron and have for decades a week before an oil change maybe 2X or 3X a year at most. I have also used Marvel Mystery Oil on older vehicles, it is known for both lubrication and cleaning properties and it does
make a notable difference in the smoothness of running of older high mileage vehicles I have used it in.
 

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I have seen actual tests of Marvel Mystery oil where it actually degrades lubrication. It may be a good cleaner, but not a good lubricant. It is
real easy to ruin a high milage engine, that has not been maintained well, with engine cleaners. They break the gunk loose and plug oil
galleries and pump screens. Just start using good quality oil at regular intervals and it will slowly help clean the engine some.

I would suggest using good quality oil changed at regular intervals, and good quality gas from high tier stations. Doing that you should only
need oil in the oil, and gas in the gas. Doing just this I get no residue in the engine, and have had no fuel related issues. Just dont get
cheap with the life blood of the engine.
 

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I have seen actual tests of Marvel Mystery oil where it actually degrades lubrication.
Can provide links to those tests ? I am NOT recommending he use Marvel Mystery oil in his engine oil, as stated he should NOT use any oil additive. Marvel Mystery oil can be added to your fuel tank just like Chevron Techron etc. and as I warned him he should change his engine oil within a couple of weeks maximum after doing a treatment. I've only used Marvel Mystery oil as a fuel system cleaner on older high mileage cars.
 

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Thanks but that test is for Diesel Fuel which IIRC is expected to help lubricate complex diesel injection pumps and in some cases extremely high pressure injectors. The application intent of the additives I mentioned is for short term cleaning cycles for Gasoline engines where carbon build up can occur and have severe negative effects with the knowledge that your engine oil should be renewed quickly after to mitigate any possible effects of dilution of engine oil by the treated fuel. I have only had positive experiences running SeaFoam. Marvel Mystery Oil or Chevron Techron in gasoline engines' fuel for cleaning purposes.
 

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Until you plug something up with the stuff.....

I get the same results you do using nothing.
 

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Where did you have your oil changed?


For a turbo, I agree with the posts above, use premium fuel, a good synthetic oil, and add NOTHING to either fuel or oil.
 

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the dealer charged you for some high markup products. dont worry it wont destroy your car. i suggest you read your owners manual, specifically the page where it says premium fuel only on the 2.5T, and the page that lists the oil weight to use relative to your climate.

i also suggest you check your oil regularly. the owners manual mentions a low oil waringing light, but fails to mention it is for the V8, not the 2.5T. we change our oil and filter about every 3k miles at the dealer where they use semi synthetic (like a little pregnant). usually costs about $30.
 

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My oil gets changed by me, I trust no garage except when I have to.

The oil changers are the lest experienced of the whole shop at the dealers. If you go to some oil change place you are trusting your
premium car to a minimum wage person that cant get a better job.

Now if you want to pay a bunch for a oil change you can get good quality work, but I can do the same myself for much cheaper. I buy
four Volvo oil filters at a time and use Mobil 1. I know I can get full syn, but this car isnt used for racing so I dont feel it is worth
the cost when Mobil 1 is much better than just dyno oil.
 

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Until you plug something up with the stuff.....

I get the same results you do using nothing.
I've driven Volvos including at least 4 with over 250,000 miles since I waa 15 ( I am 38) - Porsche recommended Chevron Techron additive to clean carbon build up in CIS Fuel Injected models and its reputation is excellent. BMW has relabeled and sold Chevron Techron Fuel Cleaner at its dealers for modern electronic fuel injection BMWs. I've never once had a fuel injection issue using any of the additives mentioned above and have nothing but positive results. I've used said additives to deal with carbon build up that caused pre-ignition issues in older Red Block Volvos I have used them without issue and have noticed smoother running and improved fuel economy after treating with Techron, Seafoam or MMO. As you stated yourself MMO is mainly alchohol. so what is this alcohol going to clog up in his fuel injection system ?

Show me one legitimate case where MMO, Chevron Techron or Seafoam used as directed has clogged a indirect injection gasoline fuel system when added to the fuel tank. I know some people draw these additives in through vacuum lines but am I not referring to that type of usage nor did I recommend it. Please don't link to a case where a car that sat for years and had corrosion/crud already built up in the fuel tank and someone added one of these additives and places the blame on it.
 

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2008 XC90 V8 here. A lot of times what's "recommended" in the manual is simply which company paid Volvo to put their brand and weight in there.

There is no way to tell what works well in your engine unless you run the oil and get it analyzed to see how it is doing.

After running Pennzoil blend 15w-40(mediocre results), Mobil 1 5w-30 (abysmal results), and then German Castrol 0w-30 (best results yet), I've settled on using German Castrol for all my cars since my two Subarus also have very good results.

Oil change intervals as recommended by the laboratory is 8000 miles on the Subarus, 10000+ on the Volvo. Usually on the Subarus I chicken out and change it between 5-6k, and on the Volvo I just do it whenever the "Regular Maintenance Required" light pops on, about 8000 miles or so.

If anyone is interested, i'll post the last oil analysis from my lab.

I have used Seafoam (both in the gas and through vacuum lines) and Techron before. Improvements were marginal, if any. My personal belief is to stay away from additives.
 

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I only consider using additives (not put in to the feedstock as part of the formulation) when it is a last ditch attempt. IE tranny is starting to slip and a flid flush did not solve the problem, a $15 bottle of stop slip is worth it if it buys you a few more months before you have to replace the tranny, just know you are on borrowed time. Likewise, if I suspect my injectors are dirty then a little fuel additive may temporarily help. Likewise if my oil pan is full of sludge then a little cleaner may be better than disassembling the block. But by no means do i consider the additives to be part of routine maintenance. With the 2.5T I may be tempted to "seafoam" the intake, just do to the higher intake temps which could lead to carbon build up, but only if I did not have the option of running fuel that did not already come with such an additive. Shell, BP/ Amaco, and Cheveron both claim to have additives already in their fuel to stop carbon build up.
 

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I cant show you, but my uncle would be able to a few years ago. Moderately maintained, added some crank case cleaner (even though I recommended not to). Lost
oil pressure and spun a bearing about 100 miles later. Oil pickup plugged when we pulled the pan.

Now your probably better maintained, but why would the engine be dirty of the oil was changed regularly to need cleaning?
 
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