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Discussion Starter #1
Is this a common thing? I can't tell if it's the arm on the caliper that's freezing or if it's the cable itself in the tube. Is there any way to tell? I just drive around the parking lot for about 5 minutes until it pops free. Luckily I don't crank up the handle just a few clicks. I need new brakes and rotors anyway otherwise I'd definitely hesitate before burning them up. Is there a better way? Could I be damaging anything else? What's the solution?
 

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Yes, very common in the rust belt. Both issues are frequent. You'll need to disconnect the cable at the caliper & see which item is sticking. Pull the hand brake hard & then release. Pull rear wheels & see which side (or both) are stuck. Pull cable rearward by grasping the "ball" on the end. Either the cable wont move or the caliper lever will remain in position even after releasing the cable.

Replace cable or caliper as needed. There is no way to easily fix a sticking caliper. Grease the lever shaft annually with a small brush to prevent problems.
 

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I just drive around the parking lot for about 5 minutes until it pops free.
If it pops free like that it's almost definitely the actuator on the top of the caliper. Try soaking the whole area with penetrating oil, being careful to NOT hit the pads and rotor. Work the handbrake when it's still wet. If it sticks again later, you'll probably have to pull the pads, clean and wind the pistons back in.

BTW it's not an emergency brake, it's a parking brake. Use it every time you park and it won't give you a problem. Good thing to do with the M66 in any case.
 

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Check it out anyway. Is this the 2010? Pretty early for that to occur. Perhaps it's just your pads sticking in the frame like tmtalpey suggested. Not using the brake will just make things worse. You might save yourself some cash down the road by looking at it now.
 

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Look at the cable closely then. I've seen the outer housing crack. Water gets inside & sits in the low areas.
 

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For me it was the spring on the top of the rear caliper was binding up, put some grease on it and boom no more issues.
 

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I had this, and mine was the cable. The housing was pulled back a bit, so I disconnected the cable from the lever, greased the crap out of the exposed cable section, got my wife to repeatedly pull the ebrake handle up to pull the cable in, then release the handle, and I pulled the cable back out with a set of pliers, repeat about 50 times, and this fix has lasted a year.

One symptom that says cable is if you can pull the ebrake lever up a little bit before you feel it actually have any resistance. When the cable is moving smoothly, you should have immediate resistance. Just grease everything up when winter tires go on every year.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Revamping this thread I know but it happened again. I can set the brake no problem, literally 5 minutes later it's frozen. Can't push the handle back down. Drag it back into the heated garage luckily this time I was at work, 15 minutes later I'm freed up.


The only s40 m66 in Wyoming
 

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Replace the cable/s. Not worth your time messing with this every Winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So when it does this, I can always pull 1 click harder on the handle. No problem applying more force, it just won't release. And it happens within 5 minutes of setting the brake. So if the cable froze that fast, I wouldn't be able to apply more pressure either. Leads me to think that it's the spring on top of the caliper.


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Discussion Starter #14
So when it does this, I can always pull 1 click harder on the handle. No problem applying more force, it just won't release. And it happens within 5 minutes of setting the brake. So if the cable froze that fast, I wouldn't be able to apply more pressure either. Leads me to think that it's the spring on top of the caliper.


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I've never seen a caliper lever freeze & then thaw with temperature. It's generally a corrosion issue.
I have seen water in the cable housing.

Re-reading your post you say "Can't push the handle back down." If this means you literally can't move the handle back to the floor then it's the cable for sure. A frozen caliper lever will allow you to return the handle to the floor, the brake just won't release. Being able to pull it somewhat tighter makes sense. You are stretching the cable. Any possibility of an issue at or near the handle? I've never seen it but...

This not too tough to check out. If you can do without the brakes for a few days just disconnect the cables from the calipers. Pull your lever up to the normal spot & see if it freezes there.
You could also look at your rear calipers when this freezing occurs. If you can't pull the cable (grab the "ball' with vice grips) at the caliper toward the rear of the car with the handle released the cable is frozen. If the cable pulls easily but the caliper lever stays put that's your issue.
 

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The cable on mine rusted and stopped working properly. I just replaced the cable. Not an expensive job and easy to fix.
 

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Mine has done this twice. It's been the actuator on the caliper that was the issue. Luckily lifetime guarantees have paid off!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My car is in the garage. I used the brake for 5 minutes to keep the car running in neutral. Came out and it was frozen. I only pulled it 2 clicks. It easily pulled up a few more, but would not loosen at all. Could not force the handle down. 5 miles later at 30mph it thawed and released. I just doesn't make sense that the cable is freezing. I'm never in a place where I can get to the disconnect or actually see he caliper.


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Discussion Starter #19
So I just called pederson Volvo in Colorado, he said there's a separate set of brake shoes for the ebrake, inside the caliper? Am I missing something? Our ebrake on the s40 just applies pressure manually on the piston right?


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So I just called pederson Volvo in Colorado, he said there's a separate set of brake shoes for the ebrake, inside the caliper? Am I missing something? Our ebrake on the s40 just applies pressure manually on the piston right?


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He's smoking something - there aren't any internal shoes. I think the XC70s worked that way as well as older models, but not ours!
 
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