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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys

Just ordered some front sway bar links for my 07 S60R from iPD and they should be in today. I was planning on doing them either tomorrow or Friday. From what I've gathered, it doesn't sound like too big of an issue. Couple hours max start to finish for someone who can semi-make their way around auto maintenance? Is there some DIY instruction that goes along with this? Am I going to need any special tools or anything like that, or just jacks and the tools in a normal garage? I just want to be prepared since I only have the one car so once its up and the wheel(s) is off, I don't want to find that I don't have something I need and have no way to get it.

Who's done this themselves before?

I couldn't find any posts on the replacement of these, and I know it's a pretty common repaid for these cars. Any forums or videos that you know of for this replacement/any advice you can give would be much appreciated!

Thanks
 

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These are super easy:

Jack up and remove front wheels.
Unload suspension from jack stands on frame.
Unload only until the sway bar is relieved of tension, though this photo shows tools for strut removal, no need to remove struts for this job.
Undo front sway bar nuts - you may need the 40(?) torx driver to hold link stud.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/23584499174/in/dateposted-public/" title="18541452714_3f11e19bdf_z"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1549/23584499174_44c9e6d5ee_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="18541452714_3f11e19bdf_z"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Remove links from sway bar and reverse the process.

Should be a 90 minute job max. Best of luck.
 

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Get under there right now while waiting for your parts to arrive and start spraying the nuts with penetrating oil.

Not to beat you up, but a quick Google search would have turned up several videos and even more posts about this...

Search "volvo s60r front sway bar end link replacement"

End Link Install with Pics
 

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Get under there right now while waiting for your parts to arrive and start spraying the nuts with penetrating oil.
Ha, I almost included that. Use PB Blaster!!!:saber:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Get under there right now while waiting for your parts to arrive and start spraying the nuts with penetrating oil.

Not to beat you up, but a quick Google search would have turned up several videos and even more posts about this...

Search "volvo s60r front sway bar end link replacement"

End Link Install with Pics
Ill definitely garb some penetrating oil on my way home from work and start spraying the nuts. And I hear you about the google search. Not usually one to post without doing my research, when I searched I didn't find anything specific to the R links. Saw a lot for the sway bar itself and for other models. Figured it was mostly the same for the majority of the newer models but just wanted to get some input before I started in case I was missing something. Appreciate the input though, thanks alot!
 

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Having recently done this, the Torx driver approach is retarded. No idea why a company that makes cars that are driven in the snow and salt designed it that way.
In my case I used the Wisegrip on the back as a counterhold, which got them all off.
Installed the Mehle HD versions that do have a real indention on the back to make the next replacement easier.
 

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I used a set of Duralast links that I bought from Autozone. They looked better than the Moog ones they had and they have flats on them so you can use an open end wrench to hold them when you tighten and loosen the nut. They also have grease fittings on them!
 

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Having recently done this, the Torx driver approach is retarded. No idea why a company that makes cars that are driven in the snow and salt designed it that way.
So much this. I had to cut two of them off because they were so bad and I had stripped it out. What a terrible OEM design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Having recently done this, the Torx driver approach is retarded. No idea why a company that makes cars that are driven in the snow and salt designed it that way.
In my case I used the Wisegrip on the back as a counterhold, which got them all off.
Installed the Mehle HD versions that do have a real indention on the back to make the next replacement easier.
Ok, that's helpful to know because I don't have any Vise Grips at the house right now so I'll pick some up in case I need them. I threw some penetrating oil on last night, Ill do it again tonight, and again in the morning. I agree with the Torx thing too. It seems to make no logical sense rather than making our lives hellish enough that we want to bring it into the dealer for repairs lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So much this. I had to cut two of them off because they were so bad and I had stripped it out. What a terrible OEM design.
Really hoping I don't have to cut anything off because I definitely dont have anything in the garage that I can cut them with I dont think. I'll just make sure I get a good HD Torx bit even if it means I have to spend some extra cash, its worth it. Ill clean up the bolts and try to get as tight a fit as i can with the torx. Hopefully I wont strip them out.

Ill be starting this hopefully by noon tomorrow and I have to be at the airport by 5 and Ill be gone for the weekend. Really dont want to have to leave and come back sunday night with my car still in pieces lol.
 

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Speaking of cutting sway links off. Just did those tonight.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Really hoping I don't have to cut anything off because I definitely dont have anything in the garage that I can cut them with I dont think. I'll just make sure I get a good HD Torx bit even if it means I have to spend some extra cash, its worth it. Ill clean up the bolts and try to get as tight a fit as i can with the torx. Hopefully I wont strip them out.

Ill be starting this hopefully by noon tomorrow and I have to be at the airport by 5 and Ill be gone for the weekend. Really dont want to have to leave and come back sunday night with my car still in pieces lol.
I had to use a Dremel. It worked, eventually.
 
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