SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 65 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am getting this terrible issue with the front suspension where when I go over bumps it feels crashy. By that I mean I feel loose play in the steering wheel and it really just feels like when my struts were blown. But, I already replaced both front struts a month ago. I also replaced the strut bearings, spring seats and outer passenger tie rod. Then the car felt great. But I still wanted to do the other outer tie rod as well as the inners and get an alignment and 4c calibration done. When I picked up the car from having those last bits done, it once again felt like the front struts were blown and has felt terrible ever since.

They said my control arm bushings and ball joints were fine so not sure what else it could be other than potentially bad sway bar bushings but could that cause the issues I am describing? I have told them about this and they aren't sure what could have happened. And why would it do it after an alignment and 4c recal? One other thing to note is I did also recently have the stereo done so they did have to disconnect the battery and now I have the airbag light on. Not sure if that could affect the 4c system etc either.

I am about to try and unbolt the front end links and drive the car so I can at least narrow down sway bar bushings but I still find it hard to believe they could be bad enough to cause this type of play/looseness/bumpsteer in the steering wheel, floor and front suspension. I also can't imagine it has anything to do with the rear as I feel it in the steering wheel more than anything else. Really feels like blown struts but no way they are bad after a month.

Please help suggest some other possible suspects. I tried posting in the "what did you do to your R" thread but it often just gets looked over. I have spent a lot of money on the front end and now it feels like it was all a waste. It makes it absolutely terrible to drive as it is :(

Only other thing I can think of is that maybe a strut isn't communicating via the 4c system. But wouldn't that throw a code? ALl connections are good. When I put it on advanced, it feels better but I can still feel the issue/s. I also cannot determine which side. Lastly, it seems like it's worse when I go over a bump that hits one wheel first. If I go over a bump that hits both front wheels, it feels ok so that would also lead me to believe the struts are fine even though they are new so no reason they shouldn't be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,815 Posts
Obviously something happened at the shop. Disable 4c by pulling the fuse from the dash (I forget the #). If it feels improved, it must be 4c and bring it back and get it recalibrated. The worst case scenario is them having dropped the car at the shop, thus messing up a bunch of things. Lift the car up in the air and try to move the wheels side to side.

Grab the tire at 9 & 3 O'clock position and move side to side. If it feels loose, your tie rods are bad. Grab at 12 and 6 position. If it moves, then your bearing is bad. Look at the struts and see if they're leaking.

Also, did they align the car after replacing the tie rods? If not, then get that done ASAP.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Struts aren't leaking at all and bounce test is stiff. No play in the wheels that would lead me to believe there is a problem with the bearing or tie rods. And both inner and outer tie rods are brand new. They did do an alignment afterwards in which I asked them to make sure to set the rear toe as close to 0 as possible.

I will try removing the fuse for 4c first and then will try removing the end links next. Please keep suggestions coming as this is driving me bonkers. I am so anal about stuff like this. I replaced every single suspension item in my BMW from front to back. Sucks that my 92 222k mile BMW drives like a new car and my 04 DD Volvo VR w 85k and new front suspension feels like my old 300k mile 850 POS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,815 Posts
Struts aren't leaking at all and bounce test is stiff. No play in the wheels that would lead me to believe there is a problem with the bearing or tie rods. And both inner and outer tie rods are brand new. They did do an alignment afterwards in which I asked them to make sure to set the rear toe as close to 0 as possible.

I will try removing the fuse for 4c first and then will try removing the end links next. Please keep suggestions coming as this is driving me bonkers. I am so anal about stuff like this. I replaced every single suspension item in my BMW from front to back. Sucks that my 92 222k mile BMW drives like a new car and my 04 DD Volvo VR w 85k and new front suspension feels like my old 300k mile 850 POS.
How is your power steering fluid?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
PS fluid is fine. And steering feels fine otherwise. It's the craziest thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What is the fuse labeled as and is it in the box on the driver side engine bay? I didn't see anything that looked like suspension on the description.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63,543 Posts
Did you CALIBRATE the SUM or did they UPGRADE the SUM? You need to find out
What year is your R?
Does it always crash in all suspension modes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not sure. I told them that I installed new front struts and needed it to be re-calibrated as I had thought that was what I read on here. 04. Crashes in all modes but feels better in advanced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,692 Posts
I was thinking upgrade instead of recal as I read down, and then JRL beat me to it (shocker LOL). I would check with the shop and ask for a print out of exaclty what they did to that car. If they updated the SUM I don't think they can reverse it. My understanding is that once it's done, it's done. Not sure where to go from there if that is what they did. But worth a call or visit to find out before you start chasing ghosts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Can someone explain the difference to me and why that would be a negative? I am on the phone with them now and about to ask. In addition, would the stereo installer have done anything negative by disconnecting the battery when doing the install? My Airbag light has been on ever since and I was going to get the shop to clear that when I took it back in for them to try and figure out what has happened.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
He said the work order shows calibration but he is going to double check with the tech and call me back.

Edit: Confirmed they just did a calibration.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
But mine felt great after I did all that. It only felt terrible again when I picked it up. I don't expect performance when replacing all the stock stuff. But I also don't expect it to ride like an 850 with 300k miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Took it back to the place that did the tie rods, alignment and 4c calibration. Hopefully they can figure it out..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
You changed the shock seats meaning the rubber? Did you check the top bearing plates, any play its what will give you that feeling. Trust me i know the feeling, had them done last week, SUCH a difference! my whole front end is almost new +/- 3 months.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did the rubber mounts and the strut bearings. Everything in the strut assembly is new except the springs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Uggg. They haven't been able to figure it out either. Said they didn't feel anything. I said they must not be driving on rough roads as I feel it every day downtown. Luckily they said they will keep it over night and drive it downtown tomorrow.

If I owned a shop, I would create a road along side it with potholes, cobblestone etc just for dealing with this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
919 Posts
I've been chasing down a very similar problem, for some time now. I recently found play in the upper steering shaft U joint. Take off the driver's side lower trim panel and push the shaft around on each axis to see if there's play there.

How did they replace the inner tie rods? If they removed the steering gear they could have had the opportunity to damage this or another joint. If not its tougher to figure out how.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Unfortunately 3 different guys at the shop drove my car and never felt it. I told them they need to drive downtown but they did tell me it seemed that the stereo installer somehow reset the 4c system and so they did another calibration and said it felt great.

They also looked closer at the sway bar bushings, LCA bushings and ball joints and they said those were fine too (although still waiting on a call back with quotes just to see if I want to have it knocked out anyway for good measures)

They did find my ABS issue though. front passenger side wheels speed sensor bolt was loose and while there, they installed my anti-ping bolts free of charge :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
796 Posts
For what it's worth, I've had similar symptoms to what you described. I recently replaced all 4 struts/shocks and installed Eibach springs. New spring seats and the strut bushings are only about 10k old. Control arms and ball joints both have under 15k on them and the inner and outer tie rods are less than 30k and no movement with them. End links were replaced less than 10k ago too. Kinda embarrassed to admit but it turned out that my passenger side wheel hub bolts were loose. They were still in there and had backed out 1mm or less but I could turn each one by hand. I dabbed some loctite on the bolts and re-torqued them. Front end feels much better now but not quite where I want it. Hoping poly control arm bushings will help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,089 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I drove the car this morning after the shop did a new calibration and installed the anti-ping bolts which did fix my axle ping. I also installed IPD subframe bushing inserts last night. I drove in to work this morning and I feel like it's better but still doesn't feel like I would expect a car with all new front suspension in. They said they saw no issues whatsoever with the sway bar bushings, LCA bushings or ball joints but when I turned around in my driveway and the front passenger wheel went over the edge of the asphalt, I felt the wheel pull outward which leads me to beleive that the passenger ball joint could still have some play even if they didn't feel it from the wheel shake.

I already have all the parts for the LCA so perhaps I should just knock that out. But I have read the LCA's are a pita so not sure if I feel like tackling it that soon myself.
 
1 - 20 of 65 Posts
Top