SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just finished installing the front sway bar from Evolve on my 2007 S60 R.

Noticed that it definitely made a noticeable difference in body roll & stiffness. Most noticeable when I enter my driveway and cross the transition "curbing" at an angle.

I'd say the cornering is much flatter, but I'm running blizzaks for the winter, so difficult to tell for now, aside from just a bit quicker response cornering. I'll let you know next summer when I take it on the track as to how they feel out there, when pushed to the limit.

Everything went fairly smooth except I ended up pinching a line that runs next to the fuel line (evap line?)


Here's a few hints for any other do-it-yourselfers...

1. Raise the car up on a lift, or put the entire front end up in the air on jack stands.

2. Put a floor jack under the front and rear of the front subframe (I used a board on the jack to protect the sheet metal subframe & to distribute the load better)

3. Remove all 6 steering rack bolts.

4. Remove the shield & exhaust bracket just aft of the steering rack. There are three bolts in the exhaust bracket, one is under the steering rack & cannot be removed until you remove the rack. Pull off the rubber pieces from the exhaust so it hangs free & unsnap the brake line & wire connectors from the shield over the bracket.

5. Mark with a marker or scratch awl the location of the subframe to the body of the car, just above each of the four large bolts that hold the subrame in. You will need to line this up precisely when you are done with the work, the holes have a lot of room to move, so you can't rely on them for alignment of the subframe.

6. Unbolt the torque arm mount on top of the engine by removing the through-bolt from the mount. This is the mount that runs between the strut towers.

7. Unbolt the end links from the sway bar.

8. With the car up on jack stands & the subframe up on jacks, loosen the front bolts one at a time and then put them back in about 10 turns to be sure they will hold. The subframe should not lower at this point, the jack should be supporting the subframe.

9. Remove the rear brackets that hold the subframe bolts & then remove the subframe bolts completely.

10. Lower rear jack a few inches and remove bolts holding sway bar bushing clamps.

11. Slowly lower the rear of the subframe (might have to lower the front just a touch) until you can get the sway bar out.

12. Reinstall in reverse order! You have to re-route the evap line (clipped to the fuel line) over the sway bar since the evolve unit sits closer to the subframe than the stock unit.

This process worked for me, it took about 3 hours and instead of jack stands, I had a car lift that held the car up about 10" off the floor. I am not sure in hindsight if you have to remove the top mount from the engine, but I imagine that if you don't remove the bolt from the mount, you have the possibility of bending the bar.

I also did not get an alignment afterwards, the car tracks perfectly & I attribute this to the care I took in aligning the subframe afterwards. I used a ratcheting tie-down strap to winch the frame back into position. Hooked one end to a rear suspension arm, and the other end to the subframe cross-member.

Be sure not to lower subframe too far, or you could risk pulling wires or hoses, etc... on the engine. I'm not sure what the limit is, but I had about a 4" gap to pull the sway bar through.

Good luck!


Rick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
536 Posts
Re: Front Evolve Sway Bar Install on Volvo S60 R Info (gsxrgessler)

Rick - good to hear you're happy with the Evolve bars!

moddeR
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Front Evolve Sway Bar Install on Volvo S60 R Info (moddeR)

They're great. Just a tad bit of noise every once in a while. Did you notice on your car how close they sit to the subframe? The stock ones kind of sit up and off the subframe a lot more...these are only like 1/8" ...?

Anyhow, yep, they seem to really stiffen it up, can't wait to get some sticky tires on it!

Rick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
477 Posts
Re: Front Evolve Sway Bar Install on Volvo S60 R Info (gsxrgessler)

Do you just have the Front sways on or do you have springs as well. The reason i'm asking is i just talked to my dealer, here in Bamberg Germany the R Mech said that the Evolve Sways will make little diffrance.
What I''m looking for is your opinion on weather i should complete the install of the Sways i have? IS IT WORTH IT? i have the Evolve springs now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: Front Evolve Sway Bar Install on Volvo S60 R Info (JKMachine)

I just have the sway bars on now, no other mods. To be honest, it is hard to tell on the street if they make much difference. Does the car feel more flat when cornering? Yes. Do I notice when I go over transitions into parking lot entrances? Yes.

Would I do this mod if I just planned to drive on the street? No.

I think that you have to be pushing the car 9/10ths to really get a feel for the improvement they make over the car being totally stock. Your springs are probably just as important as the sways...and MUCH easier to install.

If you plan on tracking the car, IMHO they're worth upgrading.

Rick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,740 Posts
Re: Front Evolve Sway Bar Install on Volvo S60 R Info (gsxrgessler)

Quote, originally posted by gsxrgessler »
They're great. Just a tad bit of noise every once in a while. Did you notice on your car how close they sit to the subframe? The stock ones kind of sit up and off the subframe a lot more...these are only like 1/8" ...?
Rick

Here's the fix for that noise. The noise actually gets worse as the bushings wair down.

IPD bushings for the EVOLVE Sway Bars.

The fornt bushing kit is part # sbk12 and it is $30

The rear bushing kit is part# sbk44 and it is $40

Here's the difference. EVOLVE on the left... IPD on the Right. Also note that the IPD sit more away from the sub frame like your looking for.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,740 Posts
Re: Front Evolve Sway Bar Install on Volvo S60 R Info (JKMachine)

Quote, originally posted by JKMachine »
Do you just have the Front sways on or do you have springs as well. The reason i'm asking is i just talked to my dealer, here in Bamberg Germany the R Mech said that the Evolve Sways will make little diffrance.
What I''m looking for is your opinion on weather i should complete the install of the Sways i have? IS IT WORTH IT? i have the Evolve springs now.

To me the sways will make more of a difference. They really clean up your corners and make the car more fun to drive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
477 Posts
Re: Front Evolve Sway Bar Install on Volvo S60 R Info (KillerB)

Lests just say that i were to install the Sways myself are there any adjustments i would have to make to the aligment or such? I already have to springs on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Front Evolve Sway Bar Install on Volvo S60 R Info (JKMachine)

If you have the car in good alignment when you start, you can take care in marking the subframe mounts before dismantling the car & then CAREFULLY align it when you are done. I did it this way and the car's alignment is fine. Now, I didn't have it checked, but it tracks down the road straight...

When re-assembling, shine a light where the old bushings were seated on the car & try to get the bushing to sit in the EXACT same spot. You could chalk the area or powder it for better visibility. My car had some crappy grease all over the bottom (presumably from the factory?) that made it easy to see.

Personally, I would say, take your time & you'll be fine. Go for it on your own & put the $400 (or more!) or so that you save into more performance parts!


I've done my own alignments in the past, set camber & toe-in, for camber, use a digital angle gauge on a flat concrete surface, be sure to pull the car in with the wheel centered & go straight for about 100 feet before you come to a stop, this will help unload the suspension & steering linkages.

For toe-in, drive onto the flat concrete, same as before, then get two jack-stands & a 40' piece of string. Set one stand behind & inside of the rear tire, walk out to the stand in front of the car & pull the string tight & slide the stand over until the string just about touches the front wheel. You have to EYEBALL this closely. Take note of the distance & then go to the other side...and repeat (4 jack stands REALLY help this). Adjust the tie-rod ends until you get the proper toe-in. You have to trig it out to find the proper angle, but you can easily do it if you take your time. I have done it and been within spec when I brought one of my other cars in for a double-check.

Now, this isn't a "laser" alignment, but it can be pretty good, at least good enough so you don't wear your tires out or have any pull on the steering wheel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
I am trying to install an IPD sway bar. I am reading their instructions. I am sure I have missed something or I am doing something wrong. Their instructions suggest that you only need to loosen the rear front subframe mounts. I've done this. I've also removed all of the fasteners that attach the power steering rack. If I understand the process correctly, the idea is to drop the rear of the front subframe a couple inches, then detach the power steering rack so that you can push up the rack just far enough so you can slide the old sway bar out and the new sway bar in. The passenger side of the rack moves with some force applied. The driver's side is another story. When I push on the rack on the driver's side, the engine also moves. I can see where the rack is attached to the engine on the passenger side. Here is a picture of where the rack looks to be attached to the engine:

and


I ran out of time tonight to work on this. Does anyone have experience with this? I could see where there is one bolt on the bottom. I removed that. Not sure what the next step is.

Any constructive input would be appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
Here is a picture of where the rack looks to be attached to the engine:

and

I ran out of time tonight to work on this. Does anyone have experience with this? I could see where there is one bolt on the bottom. I removed that. Not sure what the next step is.
Any constructive input would be appreciated.
So I've never done this, but that wire makes me think you're looking at the engine bushing. See part number 31262155 (google image search) for example.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
I completed the sway bar install last night. I completely pulled out the rear front subframe bolts, loosen the fronts a bit too. I also removed the strut brace bar thinking that might have had an impact on movement. After doing these items, the rear of the front subframe was able to drop enough with the engine supported by a jack under the angle gear. After doing this, the job was really not bad. Wish I would have tried the items mentioned in this post sooner...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
volvo would

Since you cant just replace the bushing on the stock sway bar ive decided to look for a good aftermarket one. Any suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
547 Posts
Since you cant just replace the bushing on the stock sway bar ive decided to look for a good aftermarket one. Any suggestions?
IPD and Evolve are the two main bars. Evolve is nice because of the adjustability.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top