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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hoping someone can help diagnose a problem, I have a 2005 XC90 2.5 with 160,000km on the clock, i've had it for about a year, ever since i've had it there's been noise from the steering, clunks, creaks, pops, my mechanic told me the upper strut mount was cracked and probably what was causing the sounds so i had those replaced, no luck.

One of the CV joints needed replaced so i hoped maybe that would fix it, no luck.

There was a problem with a control arm bushing so i had both replaced and at the same time they did the ball joints and stabiliser link bars, no luck.

After researching online i found something about tie rod ends clunking/rattling and it seemed like a very similar noise so i had both inner and outer tie rod ends replaced (the inners coincidentally were extremely loose) but the sound is still there.

The sound is very noticeable when doing a hard turn at low speed and i think worse if not on a level surface (if that helps anyone diagnose!).

More research online and i found maybe the wheel hub(s) could have problems? so i started looking at that which led me to remember i noticed what seemed to be a loose screw when i was replacing the brake discs recently. I've just taken a couple photos, the first is from the passenger side and is a larger bolt to the driver side oddly enough, it tightens to the point of unable to turn any further but the bolt doesn't actually touch the washer, there's maybe a 5-9mm gap so the washer moves around if you know what i mean?

The driver side is a smaller bolt (required a different socket size) and is tight against the washer but turns and turns and turns and doesn't seem to get tight.

I'm not a mechanic (as you've probably gathered) most of what i know is learnt from the internet and nice people like you guys so please forgive any incorrect terminology above, or stupid things i've said!

Any advice/suggestions would be hugely appreciated. Thank you!!



 

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So the passenger side axle bolt gets tight, but bottoms out before the washer can compress? And the other side just doesn't get tight? You should get new axle bolts. There are a 3 or so different designs to fix pinging issues, so I would go to the dealer and get new ones and see if they fit right and then go from there.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So the passenger side axle bolt gets tight, but bottoms out before the washer can compress? And the other side just doesn't get tight? You should get new axle bolts. There are a 3 or so different designs to fix pinging issues, so I would go to the dealer and get new ones and see if they fit right and then go from there.

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Spot on. I'm going to try that. Thanks mate.
 

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Yep, it is kinda confusing. See http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6250/113950-axle-bolt for a reasonable write-up and examples of the various SEMS screws.

As far as part numbers, see below. CH–xxxxxx means prior to chassis #, CH xxxxxx- means after chassis #. Chassis number is the last 6 digits of the VIN.
SEMS SCREW, CH 354476-, PN 30741287
SPACER SLEEVE INCLUDING SCREW, CH -196987 (EXC 188643, 188659), M10x65, PN 30714142
SPACER SLEEVE INCLUDING SCREW FOR 16", CH 196988- (INCL 188643), M10x40, PN 30748388

If the axles are original, can use the above as a guide and/or have your dealer run the VIN through the system.

Or you could simply measure them.

If you’re replacing yourself, PLEASE use the right torque. I misread it when I did my first job and it took more than a few hours to get the screw back out. The only other option is the replace the axle outright.

Bolt drive shaft - wheel hub front. Stage 1: 35 Nm, Stage 2: 90°
Bolt drive shaft - wheel hub front, version with rubber cone. 50 Nm


Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep, it is kinda confusing. See http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6250/113950-axle-bolt for a reasonable write-up and examples of the various SEMS screws.

As far as part numbers, see below. CH–xxxxxx means prior to chassis #, CH xxxxxx- means after chassis #. Chassis number is the last 6 digits of the VIN.
SEMS SCREW, CH 354476-, PN 30741287
SPACER SLEEVE INCLUDING SCREW, CH -196987 (EXC 188643, 188659), M10x65, PN 30714142
SPACER SLEEVE INCLUDING SCREW FOR 16", CH 196988- (INCL 188643), M10x40, PN 30748388

If the axles are original, can use the above as a guide and/or have your dealer run the VIN through the system.

Or you could simply measure them.

If you’re replacing yourself, PLEASE use the right torque. I misread it when I did my first job and it took more than a few hours to get the screw back out. The only other option is the replace the axle outright.

Bolt drive shaft - wheel hub front. Stage 1: 35 Nm, Stage 2: 90°
Bolt drive shaft - wheel hub front, version with rubber cone. 50 Nm


Good luck!
Thanks for the detailed info - I can only assume the axles are original. This may be another stupid question but can i simply remove the bolt that does seem to be the right one (the one that doesn't have play in the washer) and see what size it is? I read somewhere these bolts shouldn't be removed and then re-used?

My vin is YV1CZ595761231384 so i'm uncertain how that applies to what you've said above?
 

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If the dealer isn't close to you call them first and ask if they have them in stock, and then go there. If you want to compare it at the dealer take it off then and just replace with the new one so you know it fits.

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as Ou2mame mentioned, you can swap in the dealer parking lot if necessary its quick with a proper torque wrench. Good luck. I need to replace mine, frequent axel ping - a common issue with P2 Volvos.
 

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Oumame is pretty much correct. If there's the slightest chance you can physically get to a dealer for verification, do it. Next best is to call a dealer and give them your VIN. Next best after that is to order the M10x40 from a reputable OEM reseller (internet or the big auction site). Don't buy them at some cheeseball place, buy OEM for this part.

As far as what "should" be in there, your car is the 231,384th vehicle to come out of the factory and based on this. The M10x40 “should” be the right part. The other bolt bottoming out seems to support that assumption.

As far as re-use, you can probably get away with it although they are intended to "stretch" slightly under torque, at least that's my understanding.
Now, based on a re-read of your post, I’m going with one bolt is too long (M10x65), the other is likely the wrong bolt with the wrong thread (M10x 1.5 vs 1.25 or vice versa) and it's stripped. I'm hoping the one that's not bottomed out is your second photo, even the head looks like nothing I've ever seen with no standard marking on the top. Re-read the IPD post and see the photos there, you'll see the heads are consistent. My bet is both are wrong for difference reasons than just length, one being Volvo OEM and the other something off some parts shelf. Hopefully the shorter one has a stripped bolt versus a stripped axle stub. I'm guessing that's the case as frankly, the more I look at the head, the more sketchy it looks.

Sorry someone did this to your car, real shame. But once you get the right bolts in there and tightened properly, hopefully your clunk(s) will go away.

Good luck !
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oumame is pretty much correct. If there's the slightest chance you can physically get to a dealer for verification, do it. Next best is to call a dealer and give them your VIN. Next best after that is to order the M10x40 from a reputable OEM reseller (internet or the big auction site). Don't buy them at some cheeseball place, buy OEM for this part.

As far as what "should" be in there, your car is the 231,384th vehicle to come out of the factory and based on this. The M10x40 “should” be the right part. The other bolt bottoming out seems to support that assumption.

As far as re-use, you can probably get away with it although they are intended to "stretch" slightly under torque, at least that's my understanding.
Now, based on a re-read of your post, I’m going with one bolt is too long (M10x65), the other is likely the wrong bolt with the wrong thread (M10x 1.5 vs 1.25 or vice versa) and it's stripped. I'm hoping the one that's not bottomed out is your second photo, even the head looks like nothing I've ever seen with no standard marking on the top. Re-read the IPD post and see the photos there, you'll see the heads are consistent. My bet is both are wrong for difference reasons than just length, one being Volvo OEM and the other something off some parts shelf. Hopefully the shorter one has a stripped bolt versus a stripped axle stub. I'm guessing that's the case as frankly, the more I look at the head, the more sketchy it looks.

Sorry someone did this to your car, real shame. But once you get the right bolts in there and tightened properly, hopefully your clunk(s) will go away.

Good luck !
You're a legend thank you, will see how i go at the dealer. Oh and it does not surprise me one bit, I recently tried to get to the bottom of a frustrating brake squeal, after thinking it'll just be a pad replacement i took the pads off to find approx 5-7mm of the top of the pad was not touching the disc (causing a lip at the top and i suspect the squeal), further investigation i found the wrong size discs were on it, replaced with new discs and pads and we're all good but that gives you an idea of whoever owned the car prior (or whoever they had working on it!)
 

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I just went through that with my 04, the brake pads... They put on pads that were too big. And don't even get me started on the wheel bearings and other crap I found.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK ! so that was fun... information and photos below.

The bolt that had the 'play' between washer turned out to be the right size but whoever put it on managed to screw up the rubber part so it was on an angle and stuck on the screw thread (not allowing for it to be tightened all the way down)

The side that kept turning and turning and turning turned out to be the correct bolt FOR THAT SIDE so i'm guessing that side has been replaced at some point with a later model part (requiring the longer version bolt) and they somehow managed to strip the thread when putting it back together, you can see in the photos the top of the screw is all messed up. My question here is how much of the thread would it normally use? There's obviously a lot of thread there but looks like it's only about 6mm at the top that got used because the rest certainly wasn't catching when i tried to put back on.

I of course bought two of the smaller ones because that's what the volvo dealer said would be right for my VIN, they managed to get them in same day last time so i'm hoping they can get me one of the longer ones same day on monday.

Any thoughts on all of that? Is that not too out of the norm to have different versions on each side or has my mechanic done something dodgy?

Thanks again guys (the passenger side was done and dusted with a torque wrench in about 5 mins, nice and tight, no play, so i appreciate all the advice!)

cheers

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ps. i also found it strange that one was covered in grease when it came out and the other was extremely dry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So just an update for anyone having the same problems! I had my mechanic replace the outer CV joint on the side with the longer bolt which got rid of one of my clunks, got them to replace the other side with a new outer cv joint but it turned out to be the wrong part, they were able to source a new entire CV axle for that side and was more expensive ($385) but i figured worth it just in case something was actually wrong with the inner CV plus I would have had to wait a few days before getting a different outer CV.

All in and no clunks plus the steering feels much nicer.
 

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Good info. I feel I may be having a similar problem that I have been chasing for a while...

What kind of "clunk" was this? Did it sound like a groaning almost? Was it louder while accelerating? Did it happen when you were coasting and turning?

Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
No really a groan i don't think, the most recent was very evident when tight turning at low speeds (which was a problem with the CV joints), the other creeks clunks were primarily to do with upper strut mount being cracked i believe. Definitely not a groaning though, sorry!
 

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Good info. I feel I may be having a similar problem that I have been chasing for a while...

What kind of "clunk" was this? Did it sound like a groaning almost? Was it louder while accelerating? Did it happen when you were coasting and turning?

Thank you!
This sound like a wheel bearing....
 

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So just an update for anyone having the same problems! I had my mechanic replace the outer CV joint on the side with the longer bolt which got rid of one of my clunks, got them to replace the other side with a new outer cv joint but it turned out to be the wrong part, they were able to source a new entire CV axle for that side and was more expensive ($385) but i figured worth it just in case something was actually wrong with the inner CV plus I would have had to wait a few days before getting a different outer CV.

All in and no clunks plus the steering feels much nicer.
Very happy to hear that this worked out and good that you have things bit more standardized. Between this work and all the other suspension parts you've replaced over time, you ought to be in pretty good shape up front for some time to come.
 

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Yes upper strut mount and rubber. Need both to change. Than also check all ball joints and other steering wheel rods angles if have space dancing...I changed all parts at once all bushings subframe bushings subframe rear side rubber add. Add white plastix washers ect...no more piggy sound at all. See post official squeak sounds...hahha

Sent from African Safary Jungle ;)
 
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