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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting ready to dive into my front end to <br>A) firm up the car and <br>B) chase away the noises (clunks bangs and squeaks)<p>I would like to kill everything at once, versus taking the front end apart monthly, and since nothing I'd want is at Kragen I need to plan. So. Advice on what to replace?<p>I'm already planning on the upper strut bearing plate and the upper strut rubber seat (the beefier one).<br>Also planning on the front/rear control arm bushings (only front optional for firmness?)<br>While I'm in there I probably will add the spacers to the steering bump stops.<p>I'm relatively new to the volvo world, is IPD the best source to get this all at once? Or of the other sites I've seen are there better sources for OEM/upgraded OEM parts like these bushings?<p>Also, if there is another component that should be changed out I would appreciate the input.<p>According to the dealer, a control arm bushing was replaced when I bought the car 15K miles ago, but I don't trust them really. Currently the car has 122K on it, and I've been unable to dig up dealer info on it from anywhere near where I bought it. Cali roads are horrible so I'm sure I need to replace this stuff.<p>Thanks
 

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Re: Front end pieces/bushings - advice (spiked60)

I would replace the shocks at that mileage if original along with new xc90 spring seats. Inspect the strut mounts though because mine did not need replacing when i swapped in new shocks and springs. Swaybar links are probably toast at that mileage, and replace balljoints if doing control arms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: (Bender)

Ah. Good point Bender, thanks for reminding me of that. That's a trade off I hadn't considered.<p>As for suspension, yeah, I'm figuring out what to do (OEM vs. aftermarket)<br>
 

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I would further suggest that IPD is the best source for all this AND to buy the upgrade/heavy duty versions of the things listed above. They will be more enjoyable now, and will last significantly longer.
 

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Re: Front end pieces/bushings - advice (spiked60)

Best mod I have done is a set of powerflex bushings in the control arms. I have posted before and people seem to think they make the car harsh, squeak, and cause rattles, just not the case. The fact that the front bushing has almost no flex and lets the are pivot the way it needs to makes the car handle and drive like a different animal. <p><br>Give Brian Fowler a call we worked out a comprehensive install write-up.<p><A HREF="http://www.bimmerworld.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.bimmerworld.com</A><p><A HREF="http://www.bimmerworldracing.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.bimmerworldracing.com</A><p><A HREF="http://www.powerflexusa.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.powerflexusa.com</A><p>Race Proven BMW Performance<p>877.639.9648<p><br>
 

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I would stick with oem parts on this one. Volvo from the beginning set up this car for comfort rather than handling, so if you put firmer bushings all around, it will change the feel of the car, firmer, rattles and so on. I changed the lower trans mount to the ipd one and the top engine mount as well, and you definately feel more vibrations than with the stock rubber, which is why I'm thinking of going back to stock. Again this is only my opinion.
 

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Re: (miha11)

I am not trying to argue but I disagree when it comes to the front busings. I saw no decrease in comfort or increase in vibration. You have experience with which parts? I just did the front as the back has not been a problem compared the the front bushings. I love the way the car feels.
 

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A lot of people have said to just replace the whole front control arm because getting a shop to press out the bushings in the old control arm takes a little bit, Unless you have a press<p>Chris
 

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Re: (Cjones16)

That is what is nice about these bushings you don't press out the metal sleeve, just punch out the rubber part. A vise is all you need. If you want to see what is involved send me an e-mail ([email protected]) and I will send you the write up I did. <p>Best mod I have ever done to my car. Improved the handling of the car so much. Yes Volvo designed the bushings for comfort, why else would you fill them with oil, but honestly I can feel no negative effect. An doing a quick lane change and hard braking the car is so much more predictable I can't see why anyone would not start with these vs. replacing the whole control arm. For $65 bucks what is the down side? I am putting a set in our XC70 this weekend as it has 65k and the car won't stay still on the alingment rack...<br> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (2002VolvoS60)

Sorry Cjones16, I meant to comment on your replacement remark. You are correct pressing out the old bushings even with a press is hard. The problem is if you press is wide enough there is not flat surface to support the arm, so you risk damage. Which sadly I have done. <p>Replacing the whole arm will fix the problem short term. I have a friend of a friend that races Volvo's and he told my buddy that when you move up to 17" + wheels on these cars you destroy the stock bushings very quickly as they are oil filled and can't absorb the shock of the lower profile tires. He turned me on the the powerflex option and it has been night and day. So get under there with a pry bar and see how much your bushings flex and watch how much the tire or rotor moves and ask your self, did the really design it this way?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (2002VolvoS60)

<IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Thanks for the inputs here, yes, I believe Volvo built these cars for comfort, I also believe that the roads in Cali are WAY beyond what they had intended. <br>I want my car to be comfortable, but it will never be as smooth as it could, I'm not in Sweden nor is it my M.O. to leave a vehicle bone stock.<br>W/ prior cars and trucks the suspension was always the first thing for me to switch out with new parts (lower/lift with shocks/struts/springs etc). So any given day I'd prefer a 'slightly rough' ride that will last more then 30K miles versus a 'slightly smooth' ride that shreds itself to pieces. (note - don't take that as I don't care or am going to ruin a good car)<p>So, again, thanks for the inputs, I will definitely be looking into those upgraded bushings <br> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Something I always like to do is get a set of control arms from a junkyard, and replace the bushings without tearing the car apart, then just do a control arm swap.<p>That way if you screw something up, or just run into a snag, your car isn't down until you fix it.
 

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Re: (2002VolvoS60)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>2002VolvoS60</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is what is nice about these bushings you don't press out the metal sleeve, just punch out the rubber part. A vise is all you need. If you want to see what is involved send me an e-mail ([email protected]) and I will send you the write up I did. <p>: </TD></TR></TABLE><p>My PowerFlex are sitting in the cabinet, I haven't tried to take the old bushings out yet. What did you use to get the old ones out?<p>Thanks.
 

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Re: (JPL Guy)

Tools:<p>Bench Vise - Used to press parts in and out<br>Deep socket set - used to push the bushing out of the sleeve<br>Hack Saw - Used to cut the metal casing around the pivot shaft from the extracted bushing.<br>Vise Grip - Used to peal the metal casing from the pivot shaft<br>Razor Blade - Used to cut the rubber away from the pivot shaft as you remove (peal) the metal casing from the pivot shaft. THIS IS NOT THE SLEEVE THAT NEEDS TO STAY IN THE CONTROL ARM.<br>Wire Wheel - Used to grind the rubber from the pivot shaft.<p>I will send you the write up I did. I just did an XC70 this weekend that was the recipient on new tires and an alignment today and the results where outstanding. The toe was out equally on both sides which points to the sagging factor of the worn OEM parts, and there was not difference in NVH at all and the all the side to side play when turning was greatly reduced. I would state the car is smoother because you are not transmitting movement into the steering parts. <p><br>
 
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