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I've had a slight front-end clunk for over a month. Within the past year, I've installed new front struts (complete assemblies with upper mount), new OEM LCAs, new lower ball joints, and most recently new end links as they were completely shot. I thought that was my culprit until I drove it and the clunk remains. It usually occurs over a bump or a dip and *cannot* be reproduced by violently rocking the car back and forth. Next best guess?
 

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Post the brands of all the parts you installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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I spent $1500 on my 2007 for all of the same. I also replaced the front shocks and am experiencing the same thing. I am thinking it might be the hubs ? Thoughts ?

Thanks ,

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I just solved my front end clunk after replacing LCA's, all motor mounts and subframe bushings. Turns out the issue was the LCA's. The issue was I re used the large single bolt for the control arms and it is a single use bolt. New bolts on the way and thread lock in the meantime. If you re used your bolts this might be your issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I just solved my front end clunk after replacing LCA's, all motor mounts and subframe bushings. Turns out the issue was the LCA's. The issue was I re used the large single bolt for the control arms and it is a single use bolt. New bolts on the way and thread lock in the meantime. If you re used your bolts this might be your issue.
I did re-use the bolts. I guess I'll order some new ones.
 

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On my P2 I went through the same thing you did. Is it quiet immediately following removing the car from jack stands, but gets noisy again after a mile or two?

If so its your sway bar bracket to frame bushings. Replace bar or replace bushings.
 

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All OEM except the strut assemblies (Suncore).
OEM meaning all original Volvo? Or aftermarket?

The bolts is a good place to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OEM meaning all original Volvo? Or aftermarket?

The bolts is a good place to start.
Yes OEM Volvo.


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For future reference, OEM means the manufacturer of the parts, not the auto-manufacturer. This is important because OEMs like Lemforder are having a history of lower quality manufactured parts across the makes (including Volvo, BMW, Mercedes, and Porsche).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Original_equipment_manufacturer
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
For future reference, OEM means the manufacturer of the parts, not the auto-manufacturer. This is important because OEMs like Lemforder are having a history of lower quality manufactured parts across the makes (including Volvo, BMW, Mercedes, and Porsche).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Original_equipment_manufacturer
Sorry if I confused you. Usually when I refer to OEM, I don’t need further clarification. Good to know though. I thought Lemforder was OEM Volvo brand.


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Not confusing, just trying to clarify. Lemforder is an OEM brand/manufacturer for Volvo. There have been issues with their rubber products and may spill onto other products, like their strut mounts. Thus, the reason to clarify and why I was initially asking the specific brands. Unfortunately, OEM could mean different things to different people.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If I apply pump the brakes between light and moderate force while moving I can reproduce the clunk. Hopefully this helps. Bolt seemed torqued properly but I will still replace.


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On my P2 I went through the same thing you did. Is it quiet immediately following removing the car from jack stands, but gets noisy again after a mile or two? If so its your sway bar bracket to frame bushings. Replace bar or replace bushings.

Exactly. As these bushings get old, they soften up. In summer time, they will be silent for the first miles, then as they warm up from the engine heat, they start knocking. It's really like a repeated clunk clunk clunk going over the slightest street deformation. Sadly, a terrible thing to fix, aftermarket sells polybushings but very risky because they are not vulcanized to the bar as the original ones are, and may still be knocking. Really about the only real option is the v expensive genuine bar from Volvo. On top of this, this job requires lowering the rear subframe, disconnecting the exhaust and perhaps the drive shaft, upper engine torque mount, etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This springy "clunk" sound can be produced immediately on a drive and doesn't increase or decrease frequency as the car warms. Looks like the sway bushings can't be replaced separately, anyway.
 

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When you say "springy clunk", is it anywhere close to this?
https://youtu.be/v92QGq9-nzM
The last 2 or 3 inches of the coil had rusted off and that corner would clunk over bumps since the spring was less effective. It would also make the springy twang noise as the coil rotated on the bottom strut mount during sharp turns. If you used the bottom insulators it might be less dramatic of a noise with the rubber absorbing some of the vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
When you say "springy clunk", is it anywhere close to this?
https://youtu.be/v92QGq9-nzM
The last 2 or 3 inches of the coil had rusted off and that corner would clunk over bumps since the spring was less effective. It would also make the springy twang noise as the coil rotated on the bottom strut mount during sharp turns. If you used the bottom insulators it might be less dramatic of a noise with the rubber absorbing some of the vibration.
Nothing like that noise at all.
Like I said, these coil/strut assemblies are very new (~1 year). No rust nor deformation.

Since it is a fairly easy chore, I think I will swap the front strut assemblies and see if the noise follows.
 
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