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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 07 S60 2.5T with 135 thou has developed a small leak at the front. So I am asking for an opinion on whether or not the oil pump should be removed to also replace the green gasket and big O ring seal that goes around the pump. It seems to me that it is very unlikely that that part of the job is necessary. What has anyone experienced with this job.
Hoping member Tech can chime in on this.
 

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My 07 S60 2.5T with 135 thou has developed a small leak at the front. So I am asking for an opinion on whether or not the oil pump should be removed to also replace the green gasket and big O ring seal that goes around the pump. It seems to me that it is very unlikely that that part of the job is necessary. What has anyone experienced with this job.
Hoping member Tech can chime in on this.

Indeed, we rarely read about a leaking oil pump. Careful with the cam seals, how much to push new ones in, how to mark all parts before removal, etc New PCV on the way as well I assume
 

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I've replaced plenty of cam seals but never oil pump seals. So I very much doubt that is where your leak is coming from.
 

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Every time we do cam seals, we re-seal the oil pump. Part # for Oil pump kit is 274270 - If you just want to replace the front seal its #6842273 i beleive. The seal can be replaced without pulling the pump but be very careful to not roll the lip installing it.

When we're doing cam seals it only ads a small amount of labor to re-seal the Oil Pump and at 150,000+ Miles, for us, it's a no brainer as it saves time/money to do it while we're there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Every time we do cam seals, we re-seal the oil pump. Part # for Oil pump kit is 274270 - If you just want to replace the front seal its #6842273 i beleive. The seal can be replaced without pulling the pump but be very careful to not roll the lip installing it.

When we're doing cam seals it only ads a small amount of labor to re-seal the Oil Pump and at 150,000+ Miles, for us, it's a no brainer as it saves time/money to do it while we're there.
Without a dought it is only the front crank seal leaking. I very closely looked at the cam seals and they don't even seep one bit. I did a thorough "Replace/Clean out everything possible including replacing the PTC valve with a new pipe and every possible hose and made sure all passages are free and clear.At 98,000. It has negative crankcase pressure for sure. That service was done by me 38thousand ago.Along with doing a complete T belt service with all the parts involved in doing it the right way. I also use Castrol Edge full synth 5/30 every 4,000 mi. The leak is slow but it bothers me as I am anal about everything. I will also replace the T belt as it has already been streched and has a slight amount of contamination on it. So I ask, I will align all the marks and pull the crank ballancer and t belt toothed cog to get to the seal. Will normal everyday 3 jaw pullers work fine on the ballancer and timing belt cog under it? I surely want to make sure that I have everything in hand before I begin this job. I have a friend with a lift I can use and he says it better take a max of 4 hours for me to do it. I wrenched for 30 years and it looks like a easy job for me and I have all the tools. I don't want to jam up the job with extra time.
 

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Remove serp belt, Remove passenger front tire, Remove front timing belt cover, pull inner fender liner to the side and bungee cord it out of the way if possible for more room. Align Timing marks. Remove the center crank bolt. remove the 4 bolts holding the dampner pulley to the crank. screw one bolt back in a few threads. Take a dead blow and tap each side of that pulley until it's loose enough to remove. remove bolt. We use a large 2 jaw puller but a three jaw should work just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Remove serp belt, Remove passenger front tire, Remove front timing belt cover, pull inner fender liner to the side and bungee cord it out of the way if possible for more room. Align Timing marks. Remove the center crank bolt. remove the 4 bolts holding the dampner pulley to the crank. screw one bolt back in a few threads. Take a dead blow and tap each side of that pulley until it's loose enough to remove. remove bolt. We use a large 2 jaw puller but a three jaw should work just fine.
I am going to add a little tip which I didn't do but always will in the future if I remove the crank pully and sprocket. BEFORE you align the timing marks on the crank and cams, loosen the 30mm crank nut and the 4 bolts but don't remove them. Then align the marks and remove the crank pully. That way nothing cam move.
 
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