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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my car started squeaking/squealing persistently last time i drove it, and it made the noise while driving and also while stopped. i could not pinpoint the location of the noise (it was definitely not from the belts). however, i noticed that a couple of times, when i turned the steering wheel, the noise intermittently stopped for half a second or so, and then came back on. i have to say that, according to the inspection by the dealer a while back, the front passenger-side wheel bearing needs to be changed, the front left and right shocks are slightly leaking oil, and front top shock bearings have started to make noise, and front shock stoppers need change; they also mentioned that front link rods might need change.

i took the car to the mechanic now, and mentioned the squeaking noise, and also a clunk/clank noise when going over small bumps at low speeds. he called me back and said that the driver-side front axel shaft needs to be changed very soon.

can anybody tell me how much the driver-side front axel shaft costs and how long is the labor? what would be an estimate for the total cost of this repair?

also, if possible, does anybody have a diagram from VIDA showing the front shock bearings and shock stoppers? i've never heard of them and would like to know what parts they are!

thanks a lot...
 

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Hold on to your wallet! Axles are pricey, especially OEM which you should opt for since no aftermarket options seem to work well (they are all short and cause vibrations). My passenger front axle ran about $850 installed at the dealer. :(
 

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The bearing just sits between the strut mount and stopper to help it articulate around. The stopper is to prevent the strut from bottoming out. It's the same principal for all cars, so you should find a diagram no problem.

For axles look around online. Get a remanufactured one from like Erie Volvo or a junk yard etc. new ones (which are remanufactured by Volvo anyway) will run you a pretty penny. I believe the OEM is GKN.

You can price parts online and then add about 20% and then about 100 an hour for service to get an estimate. All places charge different but should be around the same. Unless it's a dealer. I'd say you'd be near 1K for a dealer and like 700 (maybe) for hometown. When I did my axle is took me about 3 hours start to finish. (A mechanic can probably do it quicker).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
ok, i got my car back from the mechanic. he said that the 'click-click' noise i hear when i turn the steering wheel is from the left drive axle. he said the right one has some play, but it's still okay and doesn't need changing. over the phone, however, he mentioned that the 'clank-clank' noise that i hear when going over small bumps is from the left drive axle, and he didn't mention the 'click' noise from the steering wheel...so which one is correct now?! could someone tell me what are the symptoms of a bad axle?

EDIT: i'm now thinking the noise might be the passenger-side engine mount, which is notorious to go bad. is it easy to diagnose? can i do it in the parking lot without tools?
 

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With an axle it's mainly about the CV joint or vibrations. Does the car vibrate? Do tight circles in both directions in a large parking lot to check your CV joints. If you hear a "click click" noise going in a direction, the opposite axle is bad.

The passenger side mount is tough to diagnose without removing it. It mainly comes down to vibrations or loud noises. How many miles and how old is the car? If it's over 120K, it's probably time to redo all three.

The best way to tell is to remove it, and see if it falls apart. You could try to put your finger on it under the limiter and you should be able to feel a firm/ decent amount of gel material in there.
 

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Unless the axles are leaking oil I would not touch them until you get your suspension taken care of. Struts/shocks, strut bearings. I don't know how they can tell the stops are bad when they are covered be the strut bellow. Idont believe your main issue is axles and I definitely wouldn't spend the money on them until you get your suspension rebuilt. I just put struts andshocks on mine. $780 shipped for Koni's. Didn't not replace bearings or stops. They were fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
With an axle it's mainly about the CV joint or vibrations. Does the car vibrate? Do tight circles in both directions in a large parking lot to check your CV joints. If you hear a "click click" noise going in a direction, the opposite axle is bad.

The passenger side mount is tough to diagnose without removing it. It mainly comes down to vibrations or loud noises. How many miles and how old is the car? If it's over 120K, it's probably time to redo all three.

The best way to tell is to remove it, and see if it falls apart. You could try to put your finger on it under the limiter and you should be able to feel a firm/ decent amount of gel material in there.
Unless the axles are leaking oil I would not touch them until you get your suspension taken care of. Struts/shocks, strut bearings. I don't know how they can tell the stops are bad when they are covered be the strut bellow. Idont believe your main issue is axles and I definitely wouldn't spend the money on them until you get your suspension rebuilt. I just put struts andshocks on mine. $780 shipped for Koni's. Didn't not replace bearings or stops. They were fine.

the car does not vibrate. there is some vibration in the steering wheel only when braking at highway speeds (~60 mph) which goes away at lower or higher speeds. i'll try the tight circle test. thanks :)
it's a 2006 S40, and it has 78,000 miles on it. but the roads in montreal have been brutal to it in the last two years.

i'll do the suspension work soon. i don't know much about the drive axle though; it's the first time it was ever mentioned (the dealer didn't say anything when i took my car for the 75k service in december 2014). what worries me is the squeaking/squealing noise i heard yesterday while driving, which was very persistent, and continued even when i stopped for red lights. the only time it changed was when i turned the steering wheel, which caused it to pause for a split second and it continued afterwards. not sure if it could be the wheel bearings though (because the noise was there even when the car stopped). could that be the axle?

should i go with OEM shocks or aftermarket is fine?
 

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Your mounts could be bad coming up on 10 years. You should check them out. The left passenger one and the lower torque rod are easy to see if they have rips or that.

A bad axle wouldn't squeak/squeal in my experience. That would be more a strut mount/ lower control arm/ sway bar end link/ strut assembly type of thing. If you haven't done any suspension work it probably needs to be updated or, at the very least, inspected.

OEM is fine and I think is made by Sachs. But not sure. Aftermarket is good. If you're just looking to get a solid suspension, look at something like Sachs or KYB. You should replace both struts with new mounts and bearings as well. Bump stops can stay if they aren't ripped or that. You'll see their condition when you take them apart (or your mechanic does).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hold on to your wallet! Axles are pricey, especially OEM which you should opt for since no aftermarket options seem to work well (they are all short and cause vibrations). My passenger front axle ran about $850 installed at the dealer. :(
can i ask what was the symptoms you were experiencing which led to the replacement of the front axle?
 

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My CV boot was torn and when they went to replace the boot, they couldn't separate the joint so they had to replace the whole axle. After the fact, they were able to separate it. Go figure.
 

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I used stock struts on my xc90 (Sachs) and are very satisfied with them. The week after I installed them I went on a 3k road trip and wished I would have changed them years ago (car has 110k miles). My v50 which has factory sport suspension has 150k miles with little known previous history. I have has it for 8 months. I went with Koni yellows which are adjustable since it has the sport susp. I installed them yesterday and have only driven it maybe 20 miles. Pretty happy with them so far. I would growth stock comparable struts/shocks if you can.

You describing several symptoms and i would recommend, again, to tackle each separately with a game plan. The squeaking, how you describe it, can only be a couple things none of them suspension or drivetrain. If it was my problem this is what I would do. Take the oil cap off while running to see if it changes. If it does then its a pvc issue. I would take some wd40 or comparable light spray oil and lightly spray a burst of oil onto the drive belts, one at a time to see if the noise quality changes. If it does then it is a belt/pulley problem. If it doesn't then I would concentrate on the powerstearing pump. I would get your suspension back in order then I would reevaluate the axles.

I changed my drivers side axle out due to a torn boot and high miles with a aftermarket from IPD. I immediately had a high frequency vibration vibration and significant axle ping. Fixed the ping with locktite to the splines. I decided it was more appropriate to replace the motor mounts since I knew they were overdue, torn and leaking. This fixed some of the vibration and other weird shifting/clunking of the transmission. Then I replaced the struts/shocks for the same reason and it appears all of the vibration is gone. Doesn't mean the problem is fixed with the axle but the struts are compensating. Luckily I saved the original axle and I will just rebuild it when time is available. Hope this helps.
 

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Hi all,

Just tried using after market drive axle and it leaked. Something was off, not really sure, but the seal leaked. Ended up having to replace the tranni fluid and had my original OEM drive shaft re-built. Cost was around the $180 mark for the rebuild.
 

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Hold on to your wallet! Axles are pricey, especially OEM which you should opt for since no aftermarket options seem to work well (they are all short and cause vibrations). My passenger front axle ran about $850 installed at the dealer. :(
Chattanooga Dealer did it a few weeks ago for $1095. I was happy the $50 reboot in Memphis made it to 122,000 miles. Guess I need to find another Indy in Chatt or Nashville sometime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I used stock struts on my xc90 (Sachs) and are very satisfied with them. The week after I installed them I went on a 3k road trip and wished I would have changed them years ago (car has 110k miles). My v50 which has factory sport suspension has 150k miles with little known previous history. I have has it for 8 months. I went with Koni yellows which are adjustable since it has the sport susp. I installed them yesterday and have only driven it maybe 20 miles. Pretty happy with them so far. I would growth stock comparable struts/shocks if you can.

You describing several symptoms and i would recommend, again, to tackle each separately with a game plan. The squeaking, how you describe it, can only be a couple things none of them suspension or drivetrain. If it was my problem this is what I would do. Take the oil cap off while running to see if it changes. If it does then its a pvc issue. I would take some wd40 or comparable light spray oil and lightly spray a burst of oil onto the drive belts, one at a time to see if the noise quality changes. If it does then it is a belt/pulley problem. If it doesn't then I would concentrate on the powerstearing pump. I would get your suspension back in order then I would reevaluate the axles.

I changed my drivers side axle out due to a torn boot and high miles with a aftermarket from IPD. I immediately had a high frequency vibration vibration and significant axle ping. Fixed the ping with locktite to the splines. I decided it was more appropriate to replace the motor mounts since I knew they were overdue, torn and leaking. This fixed some of the vibration and other weird shifting/clunking of the transmission. Then I replaced the struts/shocks for the same reason and it appears all of the vibration is gone. Doesn't mean the problem is fixed with the axle but the struts are compensating. Luckily I saved the original axle and I will just rebuild it when time is available. Hope this helps.
ok, the front suspension is fixed (changed the struts, mounts, bearings, and bump stops), the front stabilizer end-links are changed, and the front right wheel bearing is also changed. the car rides much tighter, and almost all the suspension noise that i was hearing is gone now. thanks a lot for the help with the parts and the suggestion regarding doing the suspension work first before tackling the axle (which i guess was fine anyway!). i think the mechanic overcharged me for the two strut mounts, bearings, and bump stops, but then he took off the one-hour labor that he charged me last week to diagnose my car, because i took the car to his garage to fix. anyhow...

while i was driving the car back from the garage, the squealing noise started all over again (funny how these hard-to-pinpoint noises disappear once you take the car to a mechanic!)...and it got louder. i parked the car and got out to see if i can pinpoint it from the outside, but it was really hard to hear it from the outside the car, even though it was very obvious and prominent once i was in the car. as before, the noise was continuous and kept occurring even when the car was stopped. and as before, the only thing that changed the noise was turning the steering wheel. at every turn, the noise would pause for a second or two, and then would restart. i'm not sure if i'm making sense, but what i'm trying to say is that so as long as i was keeping the steering wheel in *any* position, i could hear the noise, but it would go away momentarily once i changed the orientation of the wheel.

could it be related to power steering? since a couple of years ago, i could hear a very faint, but high frequency whining noise related to the power steering that would change intensity while turning the steering wheel. and i took the car to the dealer a couple of times over the years, and every time they told me that they could not reproduce the noise. this year, i have flushed the steering fluid, so it's still clean. i can check to see if there is enough power steering fluid in the container, but i don't know where the power steering pump is located in our cars. where is the EPS? also, is there any mechanical part of the steering mechanism that constantly moves/rotates and could be the culprit?

you suggested taking the oil cap off...by "oil cap" you mean the part on the engine block that is taken off when changing the oil or the little stick that you can use to see if there is enough oil in the car (n00b alert!).
 

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Hi all,

Just tried using after market drive axle and it leaked. Something was off, not really sure, but the seal leaked. Ended up having to replace the tranni fluid and had my original OEM drive shaft re-built. Cost was around the $180 mark for the rebuild.
Rebuilt is the best way to go IMO. I went with an aftermarket and there is some play between the hub and axle shaft. Theres a "how to" thread somewhere around here and all you really need is time, grease, and a new boot.
 

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ok, the front suspension is fixed (changed the struts, mounts, bearings, and bump stops), the front stabilizer end-links are changed, and the front right wheel bearing is also changed. the car rides much tighter, and almost all the suspension noise that i was hearing is gone now. thanks a lot for the help with the parts and the suggestion regarding doing the suspension work first before tackling the axle (which i guess was fine anyway!). i think the mechanic overcharged me for the two strut mounts, bearings, and bump stops, but then he took off the one-hour labor that he charged me last week to diagnose my car, because i took the car to his garage to fix. anyhow...

while i was driving the car back from the garage, the squealing noise started all over again (funny how these hard-to-pinpoint noises disappear once you take the car to a mechanic!)...and it got louder. i parked the car and got out to see if i can pinpoint it from the outside, but it was really hard to hear it from the outside the car, even though it was very obvious and prominent once i was in the car. as before, the noise was continuous and kept occurring even when the car was stopped. and as before, the only thing that changed the noise was turning the steering wheel. at every turn, the noise would pause for a second or two, and then would restart. i'm not sure if i'm making sense, but what i'm trying to say is that so as long as i was keeping the steering wheel in *any* position, i could hear the noise, but it would go away momentarily once i changed the orientation of the wheel.

could it be related to power steering? since a couple of years ago, i could hear a very faint, but high frequency whining noise related to the power steering that would change intensity while turning the steering wheel. and i took the car to the dealer a couple of times over the years, and every time they told me that they could not reproduce the noise. this year, i have flushed the steering fluid, so it's still clean. i can check to see if there is enough power steering fluid in the container, but i don't know where the power steering pump is located in our cars. where is the EPS? also, is there any mechanical part of the steering mechanism that constantly moves/rotates and could be the culprit?

you suggested taking the oil cap off...by "oil cap" you mean the part on the engine block that is taken off when changing the oil or the little stick that you can use to see if there is enough oil in the car (n00b alert!).
A video would be helpful. The power steering on our cars makes a lot of noise without it being a problem. Check your fluid level obviously, but I doubt this noise is a problem.

The power steering reservoir is located behind the passenger side headlight. Just remove the headlight and you should see the cap. Shine a light behind it and see if the fluid is between the lines. See this link for finding the reservoir:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqTbZhqBy8Y
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
A video would be helpful. The power steering on our cars makes a lot of noise without it being a problem. Check your fluid level obviously, but I doubt this noise is a problem.

The power steering reservoir is located behind the passenger side headlight. Just remove the headlight and you should see the cap. Shine a light behind it and see if the fluid is between the lines. See this link for finding the reservoir:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqTbZhqBy8Y
yes, i tried to take a video, but i had a meeting and had to leave the car as soon as possible. i tried driving more to reproduce the noise to capture a video, but it didn't happen again!
in my 2006, there is a reservoir on the passenger-side which is visible and accessible, and i don't need to remove the headlight to access it. i'm guessing it's that; apparently, there are two models with regards to the power steering reservoir.

i am also aware of the noise the pump makes, and mine has been making that noise for the last three years...the noise i'm describing is much louder and very noticeable, especially from inside the car.
 

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You can take off the oil fill cap or the dip stick to see if the sound stops. Do a little research on pcv valves to understand the troubleshooting of it. In a nut shell of the valve if defective it changes the vacuum and causes all kinds of weird sounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
so the strange noise happened again, and since i'm certain it's not axle- suspension-related, i've started a new thread to keep things well organized.
thanks for your help with the suspension issue...
 
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