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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
In looking for ways to help my G-tech Pro RR g-meter pick-up the RPM signal in my MY06 R I came across a new and very easy way to get wires from the engine bay to the passenger compartment.

Open the driver's door and remove the panel to expose the fuse panel. Look for and remove the foam plug. Carefully remove the large rubber grommet behind the driver's door hinge, be very careful not to drop it and lose it inside the body of the car!

Here are the pics:
(deleted original photobucket links and attached pics below)
Here's where you arrive in the engine bay (through an existing hole):
>

Roll/squish the foam plug and put it back in the hole, it will expand back to size in a few minutes (it's just like those foam ear-plugs you use when you watch the Alcohol and top fuel cars drag).

The final step would be to cover the wires with some black split-loom tubing and if you use a large enough one it could also serve as a conduit to pass future wires through (pull a back string to make it easier).

This route was WAY easier than opening the cowl under the windshield or
contorting myself to snake through the firewall near the clutch peddle.

LTA

Modified by LTA at 12:09 AM 3-16-2010 Auto part Technology Automotive exterior Electronics Bumper
 

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Re: Found a new way through the Firewall (LTA)

Jees, where was this 2 weeks ago!!!!


This would ahve been easier than using the hood release.
 

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Re: Found a new way through the Firewall (LTA)

Nice job but PLEASE get some protection between the wire and the metal edges of the holes you used. The vibration from daily driving will eat through that wire insulation quicker than you think. No one wants to see you post picks of your R as a pile of ashes!
 

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dang where was this earlier today , so I didnt have to run copper pipe under my car to hook up the airhorns
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: Found a new way through the Firewall (bschurr)

Quote, originally posted by bschurr »
Nice job but PLEASE get some protection between the wire and the metal edges of the holes you used. The vibration from daily driving will eat through that wire insulation quicker than you think. No one wants to see you post picks of your R as a pile of ashes!

But of course! Those pics do no depict the finished product.

I'm the king of split-loom tubing and rubber grommets
(check my Aquamist install pics in another thread).

I also believe in installing fuses at both ends http://********************/smile/emthup.gif I learned that one the hard way years ago


LTA
 

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Re: Found a new way through the Firewall (LTA)

Great route!

I checked my car, and the only concern I would have is that the wire is going to be either hanging loose, and possibly causing a rattlling sound inside the fender, or you are going to have to find a way to anchor it to the wire that powers the side turn signal.

If you look, you could also bring the wire up vertically quickly after it goes through the gromet, and run it over the back of the fender bracket, right next to the hydraulic strut for the hood, and then over the and down behind the strut tower and forward. I like your idea better, just have to figure out how to keep the wire from flopping around under the fender, so it doesn't chafe. The tubing around it may prevent chaffing, but not it rattling around a bit, unless you found a way to support it and keep it from swinging around and the car goes over bumps or around corners. Still, this is a niggle compared to how much easier this looks.
 

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Re: Found a new way through the Firewall (LTA)

Really nice. Thanks. A solution on the wire rub would be to slice down the center of the foam plug and run it through the center. The outward pressure will hold the wire in place.

- Tryg
 

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Re: Found a new way through the Firewall (RainyS60R)

Quote, originally posted by RainyS60R »
Really nice. Thanks. A solution on the wire rub would be to slice down the center of the foam plug and run it through the center. The outward pressure will hold the wire in place.

- Tryg

I believe that they were referring to the issue of the wire coming out through that naked hole in the engine bay.

If LTA uses a tight enough grommet, he can apply some tension on the wire to prevent it from rattling.

Nice find Alex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: Found a new way through the Firewall (wizzard_al)

Quote, originally posted by wizzard_al »
Great route!

If you look, you could also bring the wire up vertically quickly after it goes through the gromet, and run it over the back of the fender bracket, right next to the hydraulic strut for the hood, and then over the and down behind the strut tower and forward. I like your idea better, just have to figure out how to keep the wire from flopping around under the fender, so it doesn't chafe.

I took that route first (up through the top corner of the fender) but it's not a easy to hide the wires and more exposed to the elements.

Quote, originally posted by Needsdecaf »


I believe that they were referring to the issue of the wire coming out through that naked hole in the engine bay.

Yes and the hole where the foam plug is could also use some care to prevent a short. There a lots of ways, it just takes some creativity.

Quote, originally posted by Needsdecaf »

If LTA uses a tight enough grommet, he can apply some tension on the wire to prevent it from rattling.

Nice find Alex.

Good idea Joe! I was also considering using a zip-tie to attach it to the signal light wire. But that would take some exceptionally creative thinking, and long skinny arms


Quote, originally posted by blot »
Thanks for sharing this excellent find.

No problem, it's nice to have another option like this one. Should make boost gauge installations much easier http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

LTA
 

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Re: Found a new way through the Firewall (LTA)

"Good idea Joe! I was also considering using a zip-tie to attach it to the signal light wire. But that would take some exceptionally creative thinking, and long skinny arms"

I looked at VADIS, and removing the inner fender liner looks relatively easy. Remove the rub plate for the tires (2 nuts), remove another nut, and then remove the 4 rivets rivets at the front and 5 rivets at the rear of the liner, and then "release it from the welded nuts", (dont know about this part), and then push the top of the liner inward to pop it out of the hooks on the inside of the fender at the top of the wheet well, and supposedly it is out.

If it is that easy, the rivets (PN #979878) are cheap, and you might want to get the small piece of tape that goes between the liner and the fender at the rear of the liner (PN #8670915)

Having taken the front bumper almost all of the way off, and seeing what is in the wheel well, it looks like about an hour job to take apart and put back together, and then you could easily access the new electrical line and its cover, and tie it down well.

Just be careful with the rivets. They seem to be metric. They are too big for a 1/8 inch rivet gun mandrel, and slightly small for the 3/16 mandrel, but the latter still works.

All in all, an excellent way to hid the wires, and you confirmed that the route over the top of the fender leaves the wires exposes too much, and looks amateurish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: Found a new way through the Firewall (wizzard_al)

Quote, originally posted by wizzard_al »
"Good idea Joe! I was also considering using a zip-tie to attach it to the signal light wire. But that would take some exceptionally creative thinking, and long skinny arms"

I looked at VADIS, and removing the inner fender liner looks relatively easy. Remove the rub plate for the tires (2 nuts), remove another nut, and then remove the 4 rivets rivets at the front and 5 rivets at the rear of the liner, and then "release it from the welded nuts", (dont know about this part), and then push the top of the liner inward to pop it out of the hooks on the inside of the fender at the top of the wheet well, and supposedly it is out.

If it is that easy, the rivets (PN #979878) are cheap, and you might want to get the small piece of tape that goes between the liner and the fender at the rear of the liner (PN #8670915)

Having taken the front bumper almost all of the way off, and seeing what is in the wheel well, it looks like about an hour job to take apart and put back together, and then you could easily access the new electrical line and its cover, and tie it down well.

Just be careful with the rivets. They seem to be metric. They are too big for a 1/8 inch rivet gun mandrel, and slightly small for the 3/16 mandrel, but the latter still works.

All in all, an excellent way to hid the wires, and you confirmed that the route over the top of the fender leaves the wires exposes too much, and looks amateurish.

That's good info. If you go through all that it would be best to 'install' a plastic conduit of some kind (maybe 1/2"). That way once it's done you'd probably never need to open it again. Keep in mind, however, that the intention of finding this route was to keep it simple and quick with as little dissasembly and body contertion as possible. Had I found this last year it would have shaved a few hours off my A-mist installation


LTA
 

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Re: Found a new way through the Firewall (LTA)

I know that this is a resurrection of an old thread but there are new folks that find Swedespeed all the time so I thought I would bump this

I just used this method of skirting the firewall to run 2 wires for a door pod DDR3 gauge install. From the time I walked into my garage until I got back to my couch was 45 min. The hardest part was getting the rubber grommet back in the door, I did slice a hole in it and ran the wires through the center, same thing for the foam rubber plug.

There is plenty of room for a vacuum line for a boost gauge here also

Kudo's to LTA on this method
 

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As I am in the middle of rewiring the 58 - I have been using a lot of this stuff.
http://www.frys.com/product/2281378?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

Its nice to know there are some alternatives - just cable tie it on the ends.
Personally I dont like the look of the split loom even though the R is full of it.....

Great thread revival!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I know that this is a resurrection of an old thread but there are new folks that find Swedespeed all the time so I thought I would bump this

I just used this method of skirting the firewall to run 2 wires for a door pod DDR3 gauge install. From the time I walked into my garage until I got back to my couch was 45 min. The hardest part was getting the rubber grommet back in the door, I did slice a hole in it and ran the wires through the center, same thing for the foam rubber plug.

There is plenty of room for a vacuum line for a boost gauge here also

Kudo's to LTA on this method
The beauty of this solution is in its simplicity, and yes, it's brilliant I know. I used to be conceited but now I'm perfect :p

LTA
 

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dang where was this earlier today , so I didnt have to run copper pipe under my car to hook up the airhorns
Heh. Wants. Too many (potentially deaf?) stupid drivers around here.
 
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