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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally made member status :D


It's been just about a month since I've opened the doors to the R.
Been tackling some engine bay aesthetics so I figured I'd throw these pics up in commemoration of my status upgrayedd.

To introduce:

Used lots of duplicolor cans for this.

Low-gloss black for the primary color.

Secondary color was a lot of fun to shoot (but kept me nervous)
The red color is 4 stages of paint carefully laid out to achieve translucence that you'd have to have custom made through some body shop or supply shop.

Started off with 2 coats of duplicolor adhesion promotor to stick things on. Next, shot 3 coats of duplicolor engine enamel gloss black. Third shoot was duplicolor Metalcast ground coat. This is a silver-spec translucent paint that is used on non-metallic surfaces when using duplicolor's metalcast products which was step 4. The metalcast is supposed to give the surface an anodized color but many reviews over plastic were negative. I decided it would make a good translucent red. Followed everything up with 3 coats of duplicolor engine enamel clear coat.

The color transitions from a deep velvety color at low-light, to ~passion red with indirect daytime light, and finishes around a fiery burnt orange in direct sunlight at high angles.

To get this spectrum of color, the ground coat should be done using two light coats over the gloss black coat. Enough to cover the surface effectively, but still showing hints of the black underneath. Looking at high angles should appear almost black. The red anodized metalcast should get 2 light coats followed up by at least one heavier coat to fill out the surface. The more of the heavy coat you do, the deeper the red will be. I did ~ 15 pre-shoots on white plastic spoons (perfect for practice runs and color visualization). I found that two heavy coats was best for enough black to show through while not being orange more than red (wanted to avoid a red and orange battle).








I forgot how much masking was needed for these types of jobs. I have always found relaxation in prep-work.



For the 'R' in the fuel-rail cover, I recycled my rear 'R' emblem and did some dremel work on both the emblem and the cover to get it to fit into the recession; although there didn't appear to be a way to get it perfect due to the curvature of the cover. Used JB quick-weld to attach. I think it fills the recession in nicely. Props to DarekP for the idea and advice!!!



In addition to the paint, I sanded and (partially) polished the CAP. This is quite the undertaking and is certainly not the type of project you want to undertake with less than 6 weeks until your wedding. I recommend using a hand sander or DA if you have air. My sanding grit was as follows: 60-120-400/500-800-1000-1200



As you can see, the final polish hasn't been done as I haven't found the time yet and it's been a month without driving so you understand. I plan on doing a rubbing compound/fine finishing polish/aluminum polish with my harbor freight 7" buffer. Replaced my broken CAP-to-turbo clamp and heard the WG for the first time in ~3 months maybe?

So to wrap up, glad to be at 1000 posts, and look forward to the next 1000.
 

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:thumbup::beer::thumbup:

Looks great storm. How long did it take you to polish the CAP? I've always thought about doing that.

Also, do you still have the little braces for the CAP? I had to reinstall mine cause the pipe would vibrate and I was afraid it would shake and pop off or crack.

I did the same thing to my covers also :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
looks good ions. Only one color of R that lime green goes well with, and you got it :D.

I'd say I have ~ 15 hours into the CAP at this point. It really is a PITA and super dirty. Hit me up for details if you wanna know anything specific. Make sure you dont need your car for at least a few days just in case (although you can always throw it back in). I didn't have any tools to do this so there was a lot of re-trips to the paint supply shop to get more sand paper and harbor freight to get other stuff. I can see some minor scratches in a few places so I might go back through the 400-800-1000-1200 stage again if I hate my life.

Still have the braces and will be painting them a yet-to-be revealed color since I'm not completely finished and have one more ace up my sleeve.
 

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looks good ions. Only one color of R that lime green goes well with, and you got it :D.

I'd say I have ~ 15 hours into the CAP at this point. It really is a PITA and super dirty. Hit me up for details if you wanna know anything specific. Make sure you dont need your car for at least a few days just in case (although you can always throw it back in). I didn't have any tools to do this so there was a lot of re-trips to the paint supply shop to get more sand paper and harbor freight to get other stuff. I can see some minor scratches in a few places so I might go back through the 400-800-1000-1200 stage again if I hate my life.

Still have the braces and will be painting them a yet-to-be revealed color since I'm not completely finished and have one more ace up my sleeve.
Nah black looks good also with lime green and that's about it lol just gotta like green enough to do it (or crazy!) :)

WOW! 15hrs?!?!?! that's a lot of sanding and polishing. I think I'll just sand it a little and paint it :D what can I say, I'm lazy ;)

Ok I just saw they weren't installed and was wondering if they were off for painting or if you were just running without them. The rubber inside of the clamps of mine came unglued and rubbed some nice scratches into the CAP :( think I might have to order a new set.

Again, Looks great and congrats on finally being a "member" :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
black engine bay :thumbup:, me likey :)...R emblem to fit is not so easy but you have to belt sand off about half of it to fit in almost flush ;)
I dremeled about half of it down to where I was comfortable. The top of the R is flush and any more would have dropped it in to far. I can live with it right now...maybe later :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
WOW! 15hrs?!?!?! that's a lot of sanding and polishing. I think I'll just sand it a little and paint it :D what can I say, I'm lazy ;)
Im sure someone with a little more experience could hammer it out a bit faster. I went through a good amount of sanding disks at each level. When I go back through, I will do a wet-sand with the 1000-1200 as per the internet's advice.

If you are just going to paint it, Id get the roughest paper you can find and hit it with that or just paint it as is so you dont lose the heat transfer effectiveness of the coating.


The rubber inside of the clamps of mine came unglued and rubbed some nice scratches into the CAP :( think I might have to order a new set.

Again, Looks great and congrats on finally being a "member" :)
Mine did the same and a close inspection will show a large divot in the CAP where the bracket rubbed into the aluminum. :( Ill reattach the rubber after paint and hopefully avoid that from happening again.
 

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Nice job, turned out great!
 
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