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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any opinions on stretching 225's vs 235's across an 8" rim as far as which sticks better through the apex? ...or is there a more appropriate forum to ask this question?
 

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245/40ZR17 Hoosier R3S04 stick fine.
+20 track days with these.
However, with this heavy understeer caR, I rarely got 4 days from a set before cording them on the outside edge of the fronts. (a little front camber adjustment capability would be nice...)
Rotated them in the paddock after every 2 runs.
Flipped them in the shop between events.
Still 4-5 days for a $1,100 set.
Ah, well. You play, you pay.
 

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I've been running 235/40/18 on the OEM pegs and it worked fine for me.
As sleeper says, the. Car is a pig and you get a lot of funny feedback.
Have you done any suspension mods?
I've done a lot of mods and it is getting better and better now.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks SleepR. I've only just had the car a few weeks. But I have put about 3000 miles on so far. No track time yet. I've only had it on the back roads getting a feel for the caR's personality. I'm not sure how to explain it, but so far my R feels nose heavy but with vague steering input. But it could just be me with the vague reflexes. :D

I've been running 235/40/18 on the OEM pegs and it worked fine for me.
As sleeper says, the. Car is a pig and you get a lot of funny feedback.
Have you done any suspension mods?
I've done a lot of mods and it is getting better and better now.

Good luck
So far I've only driven the car on back roads - no track time. And I've done most of the driving with the car stock. I ran with Eibach Pro-Kit Performance Springs on for the last 500 miles. And I picked up IPD's 25mm front and rear sway bars. But they're not installed yet.

LOL! back in the old days we liked chasing the tail around corners. So a much looser feel. I'm thinking to only put the rear bar on first to see how that feels. I remember when the Highway Patrol was testing the S60 on the track out here they upgraded to 25mm sways. But then after a day of testing decided to put the 22mm back on the front. And they were seriously throwing the car around.

I was also thinking of running a looser sidewall in the rear like 225's front/255's rear or 235's front and (if they fit) 265's rear. Anyway, that's why I'm asking about 225's. I'm not sure how to get the car more neutral. And I'm not sure how much power I would need to get a little throttle controlled over-steer out of an R.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The front lower chassis brace will be great for fixing that "vague" feeling when turning.
I was looking at the Ultra Racing stuff their warehouse is right here in town. So I picked up the front and rear tower braces. But I like to install one piece at a time and try to figure out what each piece adds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Thanks.

...Is there a reason why the bolt area is so deep. I'd want to grind some of that off so it doesn't hang so low.
"integrity of the weld" or so I've been told. The front really isn't so much of an issue. I've scraped the rears a few times though. Nothing too crazy.
 

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If you drive it *just* so, you'll get some oversteer. Like what happened to me last night, when my back end came out unexpectedly. lol

dry, warm surface, no slant, no braking, just turning (hard) around a sharp bend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If you drive it *just* so, you'll get some oversteer. Like what happened to me last night, when my back end came out unexpectedly. lol

dry, warm surface, no slant, no braking, just turning (hard) around a sharp bend.
Are you easing it in to the hard corner or throwing it in?
 

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I'm thinking about getting just a rear Elevate 25mm bar. Odds are, with the choice of endlink positions the adjustability will be enough for me (all street, but still nice to have a neutralish car for the occasional ramp, curve, etc), but if not enough to get the car neutral I could always go to a 20mm front from a regular S60...
 
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