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BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION, MAKE SURE A/C HAS BEEN DRAINED PROPERLY.

You will want to have the car on a lift or on jack-stands. Remove the airbox, ram tube, and plastic shield from the engine bay.


Remove the push-pins on the top of the bumper cover, the screw in the wheel well for the side of the bumper cover, the two underside push-pins, and the two main bumper bolts. You will need to remove (preferably using a bone tool) the two plastic covers on the bumper cover to access the bolts.


Remove the plastic shroud from the buttom of the car. It is possible, if carefully cut, to re-use this piece, however I did not in my install.


Remove all the bolts for the upper cross member. There is a bolt on the front for each headlight too, as shown, as well as two bolts on the lower section of the cross member, as shown. Do not remove the 4 bolts circled in blue. They must remain in the cross member.


Remove the 4 bolts which hold the radiator/ A/C condenser/stock IC together.


This is the IAT sensor from the stock IC which will need to be removed for insertion into the new pipe.


Disconnect the A/C sensor and the high pressure line. You will also note the two lower connection points which are pointed out. These are where the angle bracket will attach to support the new IC. After you have the 4 bolts removed, and the 2 A/C lines and sensor disconnected from the condenser, you can remove the condenser. It will drop out the bottom. Disconnect the two stock turbo hoses from the stock IC. Remove the two lower radiator support bolts from underneath. This will allow everything to move around freely so that the stock IC can be lifted out from the top.


Once the IC is out, put the condenser back in place. The original bolts are too long at this point to reuse, so use a new set of bolts and a few washers to give it a little bit of a buffer off the radiator as shown in the photo.


The stock airtube going to the throttle body should be pulled out and modified to couple with the new steel pipe as shown. A 1/2" hole should be drilled for the sensor probe, and another small hole should be drilled/tapped to allow a machine screw to anchor the sensor. The original O-ring will not be used. Instead, a new O-ring should be placed up against the flat part of the sensor to create the seal. A bead of 3M upholestry glue should be place on the inside lip of the 3" plastic tube which connects to the throttle body. This will prevent the possibility of this tube blowing off under high pressure.


This is what the unit will look like once in place.


Another angle showing the unit in place with the 45 degree elbow which connects the cold side pipe from the intercooler.


The angle bracket should be attached and the intercooler mounted. This pipe is the hot-side pipe coming from the engine to the IC.


This is the underside showing the IC connection to the angle bracket.


This is the hot side pipe connection to the Over-The-Engine pipe in the engine bay using the 2 1/2" -> 2" connection (For the metal OTE pipe, a straight 2 1/2" coupling is used here.)


This is where the 90 degree elbow connects the cold side of the IC to the pipe.


Another view of the 45 degree bend in place. (IGNORE the straight piece to the throttle body. This was the original design which is no longer used)


The black plastic lip shown here needs to be trimmed back where shown. Using a piece of tape to keep a straight edge, use a dremel to cut straight across. If this is not cut, it will buckle against the face of the IC.


IC mounted and both pipes in place.

Modified by phuz at 9:26 AM 8-27-2007
 

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Re: fmic install guide (phuz)

revival
 

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2021 Volvo S60 T5 AWD
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Re: fmic install guide (nobbe3728)

Quote, originally posted by nobbe3728 »
who's car is that??

Elak's I think.
 

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WOW this thread is put in storage. THANK you for posting this in, well 2008 lol. But I am doing the Snabb kit tomarow and I see what things are different between the 2 kits. I will use this as my leading light tomarow.
 
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