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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking at new wheels for my 2010 S40 awd r-design. I am debating between an 18 by 7.5" or 8" width. What do you guys think. It's awd so 8" width should be more then enough plus I'm looking for a nice flush, square setup. Don't want any poke or negative camber and hoping no fender work will be necessary. The wheels will either be redrilled or have custom adapters made. Just for reference I'm currently looking at Volk TE/LE37, CE28N, BBS RGR and Advan RGII. Car will be lowered on KW V1's. What are your thoughts.
 

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Definately go with the 8" width.

As far as eliminating camber, you'll need too get yourself the adjustable camber arms. Not sure if they'll even completely eliminate it considering your plan is to slam the car on coils but it will surely get you close.

There's tons of threads on here for rim and tire dimension on both springs and coils along with tons of pics that you'll find very useful. I'd post one here but I'm running springs.

Also, I would read into wheel adapters as much as you can before going that route. I've spoken with a surprising number of people that strongly advise against them due to instances where they've seen or heard of them shearing off the hub. Unfortunately I don't know enough to give my opinion on that. Just some food for thought. But of course if you have no intentions of tracking the car then that shouldn't be an issue.
 

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You will have to roll the fenders if you plan on going flush. There is a good 1/2" metal edge that points directly at the tires and will shred anything that gets close to them. Easy enough to bend back with a mallet or a fender roller though...

I've had great experiences with spacers, would highly recommend garageline spacers for the Focus ST.

18x7.5 Midirs, 15mm spacers rear, 10 mm spacers front.



 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The car isn't going to be slammed, stamped or moar low. Just trying to get a nice look and get as close to flush to the fender as I can with no poke or negative camber. A good adapter/spacer I'm more than confident it will hold. All the wheels I am looking at don't come in 5x108 so I'll need to get drilled/filled or run adapters which I would prefer. My big concern in running a 18x8 and adapters the wheel will poke, if I drill and fill I have a little more room to work with. I know you can get custom adapters, anyone know the smallest you can safely go?
 

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definitely 8" wide would be great. I really wish my midirs were 8" instead of 7.5".

here's 17x8" i think its the perfect width.


and
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm leaning towards 18x8. Just don't want to blow all this money and end up not getting the look I desire.
 

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Your problem here is not with the width of the wheel. Weather you go 7.5 or 8 inches, it's not going to effect the position of the wheel relative to your fender.

The factors you need to consider here all have to do with ET (offset). The biggest problem I see being adapters. Spacers are useless to you because they don't change your bolt pattern, but simply create that gap between the wheel and the hub that you require to get that flush look. Problem with the adapter here is that they have a minimum dimension, which I think is around 3/4 of an inch. Which means your not going to the the precision of a spaces that can be as small as 10mm. So if you end up getting a rim with a huge offset, your adapter may push the face of that wheel out further than your fender, resulting in this "poke" you speak of.

So basically, it seems your safest option would be do have the rims drilled, and once you get the wheels mounted, you can accurately judge how big a spacer you'll require.

I had the exact same concern as the fender flare on these cars is insane. Which I love because it add a lot more dimension to the body, but looks horrible stock. I bought my rims with and ET of 52 or 54 (cant remember off the top of my head) thinking I would still need a spacer. But once I mounted them I was damn near flush. With a 10mm spacer mine will be perfect, but its so close Im not really that worried atm.

Long story short: Drill the rims, add spacer as required, install those adjustable camber arms. (Thats what I would do given your criteria)

 

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^true, I was assuming the offset would be similar to stock.
pictures i posted were et. +52.5mm for the 18x7.5 on top
and et +46mm for the 17x8"

so +46mm with 8" wide is good combo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I know offset plays a big role. Most offsets in the wheels I'm interested in can be had between 30-40. Many manufactures don't really produce offsets higher then 40-45 hence why I was looking at some 18x7.5 wheels to allow more room for the (lower) offset. Brown, very few companies make offsets in 50+, those really only apply to stock wheels or in very limited sizes for aftermarket, why because they aren't popular and no wants such a high offset. My current setup of stock Serapis 17x7 52.5 et and 205/50/17 tires I have about 1.5 inches to fender of room to play with if i remember correctly.
 

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what about 18x8 et40? What wheels do you have in mind anyway?

http://www.vivaperformance.com/enkei-rsf5-wheels/


everything i see thats available in 5x108 comes with about et40 and they're close[ish] to flush..
so how do you get to flush, low offest + 10mm spacers?
 

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Correction: ET on my rims are +40. The 50 ish offset was my stock Sagitta's which makes sense with what by-design mentioned.

So yes, ET 40 + 10mm spacer ~ perfectly flush fender.

Which is why I say that adapters will most likely put you over, unless you can get an ET 30 to compensate.
 

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I have 8x18 ET40, and the fronts are perfectly flush. the rear could use some 10mm spacers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
what about 18x8 et40? What wheels do you have in mind anyway?

http://www.vivaperformance.com/enkei-rsf5-wheels/


everything i see thats available in 5x108 comes with about et40 and they're close[ish] to flush..
so how do you get to flush, low offest + 10mm spacers?

Those actually look really good on an S40 but I am looking for lightweight wheels, 20 lbs or less. Eyeing Volk, Advan and BBS wheels. Hmm so 18x8 +40 is flush with the front, good to know.
 
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