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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Angle Gear finally rebuilt!!! (detailed write-up)

Hello everyone,

I would like to share with you guys my experience working on the angle gear on my 04 s60r. After searching the forum and the web I found some good threads which explain how to take off the angle gear and how to change the collar sleeve. So thanks to those people who took time and took pictures and did nice reviews for us. This is why I am not going to describe how to take the angle gear off. But one thing I would like to tell you. When you pull out the axle from the angle gear make sure you don't pull it from the outside end(it will pop out and will be pita to put it together). Hold it by the shaft closer to the angle gear and pull.
What I want to share with you guys in this thread is how to change bearings, seals, how to put it back together, how to set proper backlash, and how to set the right preload on the bearings. SO lets start!

Here are some threads which may help you:

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?164725-angle-gear-question
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?150268-Help...Collar-sleeve-removal
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?151225-S60R-help-needed
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?148350-Gear-collar-bevel-gear-question
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?138681-I-need-an-angle-gear-or...&p=1494480&viewfull=1#post1494480 - bearings and seals part #s
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?134621-Replacing-the-Angle-Gear-Getting-Ready-Please-Share-Advice-Tips-Tricks-etc.. - instructions how to take out the angle gear
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?145492-It-Liiiiiives!!!-(Another-Collar-Gear-Thread) - Fluids for the angle gear and final drive rear diff ect.
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?169249-Angle-gear-collar-sleeve-replacement-highlights-(pics-vids-and-part-numbers) - Angle gear diagram, components, and color sleeve change and more

First of all if you are just doing the reseal there are some good threads of the parts you need and descriptions of doing the reseal. This job is not really hard if you got the right tools and heavy duty jacks to hold the car up. I did everything in my backyard so a lift is not necessary, but will make the job easier.

Here is how I lifted my car




Changing the seals is pretty self explanatory even for someone who has never done it before. Seals are easy to take out with like a screw driver or you can press them out from the inside using hammer and a chizle. The only thing I would like to point out is if you decide to take off the race cap and change the O-ring, you will have to make sure you mark it so you know exactly where it was. Also count how many full spins you make to take the cap off and when you put it back together make sure you do the same amount of spins and then align the marks. the reason for doing this is if you do more spins you will overload the bearings and when you put the angle gear together and in the car, you will hear whining noise and it will cause premature bearing failure. Anyways if you already took it off and didn't mark anything, later on I will describe how to properly put it in place.


When you tighten the pinion nut, you will need a foot pounds torque wrench (rent strongest one from autozone $150). Tighten the nut to about 140 ftlb and check the pinion bearing preload(Basically bearing preload is how tight the bearing gets pressed into the races. The pinion bearing preload with old bearings should be 10-15 inch pounds. Make sure it is inch pounds not foot pounds! . If it is less than 10-15 inch pounds, then tighten the pinion nut just a tiny bit more and check bearing preload again until desired preload is reached. Make sure not to overload the bearings!
Here is the inch pounds torque wrench I used which I bought form ebay.

Next what you want to do is something not necessary, but it will create an additional protective O-ring to prevent fluid leaks. I read that this is new technology in the new engines and transmissions. Basically you measure 3mm around the edge of the angle gear cap and you draw a line around it.
Next file off these 3mm with file or air grinder at about 30 degree angle.
this is how it should look like after the job is done



http://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/how-to/pdf/01-23-09/TNN,%20Drivetrain%20-%20Angle%20Gear%20Fluid%20Leakage.pdf - just follow this procedure

After this you let the angle gear dry up and then fill it with angle gear fluid and install it back in place. You are done!

Now its time for more serious stuff
If you are changing bearings, you will need a press, some custom tools and some imagination :)
So you take apart the angle gear and take out the ring gear. There are two bearings there.


Both bearings are 32010X

Then there is a pinion gear with two bearings: Timken 32006x, Timken 32007x



pinion gear pressed out

Here is how I pressed out the pinion

Now here you use your imagination to hold the angle gear from dropping as you press the pinion gear with the press. I used that piece of wood and a hammer which i placed so it touches the inside of the angle gear to prevent it from moving. Once you do it you will see what I am talking about.

Oh by the way you can see I made a custom drain plug for the angle gear while everything was apart:)

Now I don't know if there are other ways to take that bearing off, I just didn't have any special tools for this job, so I just cut the pinion bearing with the air grinder.
cut it carefully not to cut the pinion gear itself. Now you need to take out the bearing's race which you can do by also using the chizle and a hammer and hit it from the propeller shaft side into the angle gear and it will fall out inside the angle gear. Be careful not to lose a shim that is in there. When you put in the new bearing put that shim back in place.



To press out the other pinion bearing that is pressed in where the propeller shaft is, you flip the angle
gear after pinion gear is pressed out and use a chizle and a hammer to get the bearing out. Hit it equally on 4 sides so it doesn't get twisted. (It is hard to explain but when you actually have everything in front of you, you will see what I was talking about). Take out the bearing race same way as the other. There is no shim there if I remember correctly.

Now its time to press the bearings in. You will need a pipe the same diameter as the bearing that you press in. Also the pipe needs to be long enough to press the bearing to the right place.




You put the bearing on the shaft, put the pipe on top(make sure it touches just the metal solid piece of bearing and doesn't touch the rolls and the cage of the bearing) and begin to press the bearing in. After you are done with this bearing, you do the same procedure to the ring gear bearings.

Now to put the pinion gear back in place, make sure you installed the shim. After the pinion bearing 32007x was pressed in place you will need to put the pinion in place. Cut a wooden block of like a 4x4 the same height as the distance from the bottom of the press to the pinion gear. This wooden block will support the pinion and prevent it from moving down when you press in the bearing.

I used a custom tool that I made from aluminum pipe and welded a thick aluminum plate on top so I can use the press on top of it to press in the bearing.



After the pinion gear is in place put in the crush sleeve and then on top you put in the bearing. (Do not forget the crush sleeve!) With new bearings you could use the old crush sleeve. I decided to go wtih the new crush sleeve. Dealer doesn't have it. I found it at NAPA. Press the bearing in, but make sure that you leave some play back and forth Do not press it in all the way. Leave just a little play. You will tighten the rest by the pinion nut.

Put the propeller seal back in place. Take the flange insert it and tighten the pinion nut to about 130 foot pounds(if you are using the old crush sleeve) and check the bearing preload using the inch pound torque wrench I mentioned. With the old bearings you want to have 10-15 inch pounds of preload. With new bearings you want the preload to be 15-20 inch pounds. If you are using the new crush sleeve, you will need a long breaker bar. Also you will need some kind of counter holding tool to hold the flange. Do not even attempt to do this job without breaker bar and some counterholding tool, because just to begin crushing the sleeve you will need up to 350 foot pounds of torque. and then to get to the desired bearing preload you will need like 200 foot pounds. So tighten the pinion nut little by little and check the preload (Do not exceed the 10-15 inch pounds for the old bearings and 15-20 inch pounds for the new bearings.)

Old crush sleeve and the new crush sleeve


Old crush sleeve


New crush sleeve


If you accidentally overtighten the nut, you will need to take off the pinion nut and the propeller shaft and will need to use the press to press out the pinion gear just a little. Then you put the propeller shaft back and tighten the pinion nut again.

Now put the ring gear in place. Without putting the angle gear together yet, you will need to measure the backlash(Backlash is the freeplay back and forth between the teeth of gears.) You cannot have 0 backlash because the oil will not be able to get in between the gears. It is also bad to have too much backlash. The backlash is supposed to be about 0.007-0.01in.

To measure the backlash. Set up the dile so it touches the tooth of the ring gear. Then zero out the dile and, very lightly, spin the ring gear back and forth. Do it gently and you will hear and see the play between the gears. When you move the ring gear make sure the pinion gear doesn't move. The backlash will increase with increased bearing preload. The bearings get pushed deeper in races. 1/2 of the increased depth is on each race so the distance the ring gear moves away from pinion is slight but it can increase the backlash.

If the backlash is too great the correction is to dismantle the assembly and pull the back race out (the one that is for the pinion gear with the shim on the picture) and increase the shim thickness behind that race. I doubt you will need to do this unless your gears look rough and have lots of wear.







Put the angle gear together without using the silicone. Put 3 or 4 bolts in and tighten them. After you do that, take the O-ring off the race cap, clean all the threads so they are perfectly clean and there are no debris. Now count the spins you made to take off the race cap, and put it back to marks.




The race cap sets the preload on the ring gear bearings. One of the forum members told me that he rebuilt a few of the angle gears and the way he set the preload with the race cap is to tighten the race cap without the O-ring just so there is no movement of the ring gear back and forth(up and down; which means 0 preload) and then tighten the cap two notches. When you do that, mark the place with sharpie, take off the race cap, lube the threads, put in the O-rig, and tighten the race cap to the mark.

Now if you have marked the race cap before you took it off and counted the spins, it is probably going to be the right preload.

After you put in the race cap check the preload of the pinion gear while angle gear is assembled. If it is correct, take out the 4 bolts from the angle gear, and glue the angle gear together(Follow the procedure that I posted when you file the 3mm off). Fill it up with fluid and put it into the car. CONGRATS YOU ARE DONE!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Here are two videos I made for you guys to see. Maybe this will clear out some things

First video is about setting the proper backlash

Second video is about setting proper bearing preload on the pinion bearings

I know this is alot of information, but I hope it is useful.
 

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I can't see the pics because of the filter on the comp on am using but damn. Sticky this!
 

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A+

Now that with a how to on rebuilding the angle gear, you could break it down and send the parts off to be cryo treated & shot peened.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everyone! Yeah it took me like a full day to make this thread :) But I am glad I did it. I just really wanted to help those who need this information because I spent weeks if not months gathering info and searching the forums. Thanks alot to Jimmy(cattlecar), he answered many questions that I had and everyone else who helped me.
 

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Nice job man,

I’m building these angel gears all day her in Sweden. =)

I did see that you have backlash at 0.007-0.01mm, but when we build them we have 0,09-0,15mm and we measure at the follower when the angel gear is complete.

Pinion bearing preload is 2,0-2,8Nm
The nut that holds the follower on the pinion is 180-360Nm
The preload adjustment nut is 85-95Nm

If there is anything you would like to know let me know and I see if I can ansever...


//Best regard
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Nice job man,

I'm building these angel gears all day her in Sweden. =)

I did see that you have backlash at 0.007-0.01mm, but when we build them we have 0,09-0,15mm and we measure at the follower when the angel gear is complete.

Pinion bearing preload is 2,0-2,8Nm
The nut that holds the follower on the pinion is 180-360Nm
The preload adjustment nut is 85-95Nm

If there is anything you would like to know let me know and I see if I can ansever...

//Best regard
Hi agusta44,

Thanks for your input. When you rebuild these angle gears, lets say you change bearings, do you increase or decrease backlash by changing the shim thickness or some other way? If I just changed bearings will my backlash change? I was told by a few people that the backlash will change if your gears look worn down or in bad condition. Mine looked like brand new and I didn't change anything besides the bearings so I guess my backlash wouldn't change much. Is that right? If not what affects the backlash? Also how do you measure the backlash when the angle gear is assembled? There are no gear teeth to set the dial on.

Sorry for the confusion I accidentally wrote mm instead of inches for the backlash. My backlash was 0.007-0.008in which is 0.17-0.2 which seems to be a bit more than what you stated.

Pinion bearing preload of 2.0-2.8Nm = 17.7-24.8 inch pounds. So it needs to be a little more than I was told. Is it 17.7 for the old bearings and closer to 24.8 with the new bearings? If not when do you tighten to 17.7 and when you tighten to 24.8?

Then pinion nut 180-360Nm = 132-265ft pounds. This seems to be same as I was told. Do you reuse the old crush sleeve or do you use a new one? Is it the same deal that I described with tightening the nut where the old crush sleeve with new bearings would need to be tightened to about 132 and new crush sleeve would need more force to crush therefore it would need up to 265 ft pounds?

The adjustment nut preload of 85-95Nm = 62-70ft lb How do you measure preload on the adjustment nut?

Thanks for your help. Your information is very valuable as you are an expert in angle gears. If possible some pictures of measuring all this stuff would be absolutely awesome.
 

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This made me far more nervous about breaking into an angle gear, maybe I'm the only one.
Why? Now there's a step by step, picture guided thread about what needs to be done. If my angle gears starts to leak I'll open her up, replace all the seals, grind a 30 degree angle on the race cap side of the cover, and re-seal. Should never leak again if done properly.
 

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Hi agusta44,

Thanks for your input. When you rebuild these angle gears, lets say you change bearings, do you increase or decrease backlash by changing the shim thickness or some other way? If I just changed bearings will my backlash change? I was told by a few people that the backlash will change if your gears look worn down or in bad condition. Mine looked like brand new and I didn't change anything besides the bearings so I guess my backlash wouldn't change much. Is that right? If not what affects the backlash? Also how do you measure the backlash when the angle gear is assembled? There are no gear teeth to set the dial on.

Sorry for the confusion I accidentally wrote mm instead of inches for the backlash. My backlash was 0.007-0.008in which is 0.17-0.2 which seems to be a bit more than what you stated.

Pinion bearing preload of 2.0-2.8Nm = 17.7-24.8 inch pounds. So it needs to be a little more than I was told. Is it 17.7 for the old bearings and closer to 24.8 with the new bearings? If not when do you tighten to 17.7 and when you tighten to 24.8?

Then pinion nut 180-360Nm = 132-265ft pounds. This seems to be same as I was told. Do you reuse the old crush sleeve or do you use a new one? Is it the same deal that I described with tightening the nut where the old crush sleeve with new bearings would need to be tightened to about 132 and new crush sleeve would need more force to crush therefore it would need up to 265 ft pounds?

The adjustment nut preload of 85-95Nm = 62-70ft lb How do you measure preload on the adjustment nut?

Thanks for your help. Your information is very valuable as you are an expert in angle gears. If possible some pictures of measuring all this stuff would be absolutely awesome.
Hi,

We only build new ones for the exchange market, we don't get old parts here.

Say that you would like to change your bearings it wouldn't affect your shims to much, it will change some, but not too much.
The manufacture of the bearings (koyo) have very god quality so the shims wouldn't change too much.

If you would like to change your backlash you haft to change the shim, if you put in at thicker shim you get at bigger backlash.

Ass I wrote we measure the backlash when the gear is complete, if you feel your follower you can feel the backlash, we put a "special tool" in the holes in the follower…
In your case you probably can put a screw in one of the threaded holes and measure on that.
We measuring like you did with a 100mm dial.

When you tighten the pinion nut you can do it so you have a round asset torque at (2,0-2,8) the pinion,
the nut should be somewhere at 180-360Nm.
Hard to explain, but I hope you understand, hard with the language. =)

We DO NOT reuse an old crush sleeve and pinion nut.

The adjustment preload nut is tightening with an Atlas Copco machine when the "gear" is under rotation, that is quite important so the bearing sets properly, and you get a stable measurement.
we can manually check the moment with a torque wrench and a "special tool" that fit in the teeth of the adjustment nut.
(85-95Nm without rotation)

Always put new berings in…

Sorry I can not take any pictures…

//Best regard
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi,

We only build new ones for the exchange market, we don't get old parts here.

Say that you would like to change your bearings it wouldn't affect your shims to much, it will change some, but not too much.
The manufacture of the bearings (koyo) have very god quality so the shims wouldn't change too much.

If you would like to change your backlash you haft to change the shim, if you put in at thicker shim you get at bigger backlash.

Ass I wrote we measure the backlash when the gear is complete, if you feel your follower you can feel the backlash, we put a "special tool" in the holes in the follower…
In your case you probably can put a screw in one of the threaded holes and measure on that.
We measuring like you did with a 100mm dial.

When you tighten the pinion nut you can do it so you have a round asset torque at (2,0-2,8) the pinion,
the nut should be somewhere at 180-360Nm.
Hard to explain, but I hope you understand, hard with the language. =)

We DO NOT reuse an old crush sleeve and pinion nut.

The adjustment preload nut is tightening with an Atlas Copco machine when the "gear" is under rotation, that is quite important so the bearing sets properly, and you get a stable measurement.
we can manually check the moment with a torque wrench and a "special tool" that fit in the teeth of the adjustment nut.
(85-95Nm without rotation)

Always put new berings in…

Sorry I can not take any pictures…

//Best regard
Thanks for the reply Agusta,
So those people who are rebuilding their angle gear could use your specs instead of mine. To measure the backlash instead of buying a dial in inches buy one that measures in mm or you just convert inches to mm. Also to tighten the race cap(adjustment nut) you guys can make a special custom tool that would grab the teeth of the cap and then maybe weld a socket on top of it so you can put in the torque wrench and that way you could measure the race cap preload (62-70ft lb) This would give you more accurate results as apposed to the two notch tightening that I was talking about ;)
 

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Thanks for the reply Agusta,
So those people who are rebuilding their angle gear could use your specs instead of mine. To measure the backlash instead of buying a dial in inches buy one that measures in mm or you just convert inches to mm. Also to tighten the race cap(adjustment nut) you guys can make a special custom tool that would grab the teeth of the cap and then maybe weld a socket on top of it so you can put in the torque wrench and that way you could measure the race cap preload (62-70ft lb) This would give you more accurate results as apposed to the two notch tightening that I was talking about ;)
Hi,

That's the specs we have, so I don't see why you guys can, observe that the spec is with new bearings.

The tool don't haft to grab the teeth, they should go betvine them, and yes you can use a torque wrench with a socket welded, to tightening.
Then rotate the angel gear a couple of times, then tightening it again to 85-95Nm.
Now you can check your backlash at the follower, fix the angel gear so it sits steady, put one screw in the threaded holes, and measure the backlash. (0,09-0,15mm)
Rotate again (half turn) and measure. 0,09-0,15mm

//best regard
 
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