SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello all, i'm new to the forum and to volvos. i've always been a fan of 5cyls just never had the opportunity to own one. i recently purchased a 1993 850 glt.(pics coming soon) Overall i think its a great car, besides the wrong wheel drive lol. but anyway. the Po said the car had been sitting for a while and that in order to run it needed a fuel pump or that it had bad gas. He also said the car had the engine replaced in 98 after running the original engine low on oil. anyway, the next day i piut a battery in and gave it a few cranks, it cranked fine but no start. i sprayed some ether in the intake and i got it to fire up, so i knew the issue was fuel. i removed the line from the fuel filter and cycled the key to see if the pump was operation. it was not. i removed the fuel pump and it was a mess. it was seized and would only hum if i tapped it a few times. As far as the fuel goes it was horibly brown. While i was draining the tank i replaced the fuel filter with a spare pump i had leftover from a previous build. New lines, wires and strainer. After the pump replacement and a few gallons on fresh gas the car sputtered to life with the help of ether once again, but maintained a smooth idle on its own. i shut the engine off then checked all the fluids. i went to restart and it took a little longer than before. i figured because of the gas quality. even diluted i figured it would be a little hard to start. anyway, it idled fine, revved great, but then it developed a slight tick then slowly died and wouldn't restart. i tried the ether again and it would only slightly stumble and backfire through the intake. initially i thought it may have been "lawnmower syndrome" but after a few quick checks that was ruled out. my next step was the timing belt. upon removing the cover i noticed that the cover said "B5254S," i took that as a surprise because i thought that all 93 850s had a 2.4... the block read the same. but anyway, i inspected the belt and i was cracked so replacing was due. i checked the timing, and it seemed to have jumped a few teeth. fearing the worst that the valves were bent i went ahead and replaced the timing belt. i checked the tensioner and it didnt seem to leak during compression to install the pin. after the tb replacement she started right up, it still had the tick but i figured if i let it warm up the oil would get on the head and quiet it down a bit as i had changed all the fluids while waiting on parts. the car idled fine, no misses of sputters. however it only revved to 1500 max, then started to idle worse. and now it wont start again. i believe that it jumped timing again, what would cause these symptoms? im guessing the tensioner. i plan on resetting the timing and doing a compression test just to set a baseline. we'll see. Also the blower motor has a mind of its own, it doesn't respond to any input from the climate control and just turns on and off at different speeds regardless setting. I've hear that these cars are tanks, probably because the seatbelts fall apart and they had to keep the passengers safe somehow lol i mean springs and buttons were all over the floor lol same with almost ever 850,960, and 240 at the local parts yard haha. i found a good set and replaced the set that were in the car. also learned that the interior trim cracks if you look at it wrong, very..fragile lol.. anyway i apologize for the long winded post, i just really want this thing up and running.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well its as i suspected. i feared that that the valves were bent, explaining the degradation of idle, loss of power, and valvetrain ticking. After checking the timing(hadn't jumped again) and doing a compression test (60-80 psi across the board with throttle closed) i believe the valves are bent. oh well. anyway, there is a v70 at the junkyard that was wrecked, it has a B5254t. Could i use that head? i read that there are no major differences other than the sodium filled exhaust valves, and that the compression differences are in the pistons. would this be a possible solution? Just swap heads, cams, and replace gaskets and what not and call it a day? thanks ahead of time for any responses.--edit-- is this the correct forum to be posting this? couldn't find a better place to stick it.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,179 Posts
You're in the right section! It's just a lesser populated area of SwedeSpeed, but hopefully someone will chime in soon with advice.

I've never torn into a P80 engine before, so I can't really say. But there are some knowledgeable people on here. Maybe post your questions in the S70/V70 section since they should know as well.

Luckily, these cars are plentiful in junkyards, so hopefully you can salvage all the parts that you'll need.
Welcome to SwedeSpeed!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
921 Posts
Yep time to put a new head on it. Personally, I would try to find a non-turbo 850 head to put on just to make things easiest. But you should be able to put a turbo head on as long as it's from a 1998 or earlier 850/V70/S70. The 99 and later engines were set up a bit different, and might go on OK but it's a bit more of a risk. So ideally, a non-turbo head from a 1993-98, or if you can't find that, a turbo head from a 1993-98.

There are full pics for doing the head swap here, should help you out a lot: http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technologyinstructions/head_gasket.htm

When you put the new head on, use new head bolts - they are torque to yield, and can't be reused.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,002 Posts
Sad to see you are having issues with your new purchase. Not sure why your car won't start, I doubt that it would start after the timing belt install and run for a short time and stall. Have you checked all 5 of your needed ingredients for it to run? I have a head from a '93, they are a little different from the later heads. Volvo made a few changes with the PCV system and the '93 head does NOT use a hose that comes from the oil trap box and go up to the top of the head. Most mechanics say that the cam cover is matched and machined to the head and it is NOT a good idea to try to install your cover on a different head.

I pulled a head from a '93 850 that had about 110,000 miles on it a year ago, had it cleaned and made true. It is ready to bolt on but I did NOT replace the valve stem seals.

I would check the no start items and go from there. Cars that has sat for several years are always a pain in the rear to get back on the road. Your low compression numbers could be from being washed down with fuel.

 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top