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The pads have reached there minimum. Not bad at over 100Kof obviously mostly highway driving.

Going to do the pads and rotors in a few weeks and asking is there anything to inspect/replace/lubricate on these cars while I'm in that deep already? Just purchase pads/rotors and I'm done?

I was shocked at the price for OEM at IPD-
 

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most will recommend doing parking brake shoes at the same time because they are prone to de-laminating. relatively inexpensive as well.
 

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OEM Volvo fluid (at least for P2 and later models) is equivalent to the TYP200 and Super Blue. I'm surprised IPD recommends a different fluid that has a LOWER boiling point!
 

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Super blue is the bomb...ATE SL? wow yeah I can't believe they suggest that either.
 

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Super Blue makes it so easy to do a fluid change. Man, 100K and the first brake pad change. Do you just roll to a stop?
Definitely check the e-brakes.
 

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The pads have reached there minimum. Not bad at over 100Kof obviously mostly highway driving.

Going to do the pads and rotors in a few weeks and asking is there anything to inspect/replace/lubricate on these cars while I'm in that deep already? Just purchase pads/rotors and I'm done?

I was shocked at the price for OEM at IPD-
Super Blue makes it so easy to do a fluid change. Man, 100K and the first brake pad change. Do you just roll to a stop?
Definitely check the e-brakes.
+1 on the parking brake shoes. It is a good time to inspect all the suspension components (bushing, links, etc.), brake lines, half-shafts, etc.

I bought my caR with 50k miles on it. I also got 100k miles out of my OE pads. My 27 mile one-way commute to work takes me through just 5 traffic signals. Otherwise, half of the trip is 4-lane rural interstate and 2-lane rural highway. So lots of cruise control...

Interesting story about my stealership service department and brakes: I gave my local stealership service a "test drive" by having them perform an alignment at about 53k miles. While there, I asked them to check the squeaking brakes I already knew what the diagnosis should have been and the cost, so it was a good way to see how they treat me and my car without much risk. When they quoted me $1000+ to replace rotors and pad at all four corners, I politely said "no thank you." Yeah, these are the same pads I just replaced at 100k miles, still using OE rotors.
 

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+1 for ATE Super Blue making the flush a breeze. If you are going to flush the fluid, don't forget about the clutch slave as it uses fluid from the same reservoir. Maybe invest in braided stainless brake lines. They're easy to change and virtually eliminates another point of failure.
 

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I WAS a little worried by the lower boiling point of ATE SL 6 fluid BUT I have been running the fluid close to a year for @20,000 miles and I do a lot of stop and go driving in the Metro Atlanta area and never once had an issue with brake fade, weak pedal feel etc.
 
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