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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I finally got around to taking my 142's B20F to the machine shop a few weeks ago and picked it up yesterday.
I really didn't need to take it, it turned out. Still takes standard sized pistons / rings, rod & main bearings. I had them replace the cam bearings and I'll be putting in a new D cam, lifters & push rods.
Spent a few hours cleaning & masking the head, priming it with some VHT high temp primer, which I cured with my heat gun. Then I gave it a couple of coats of Volvo engine red that I bought from a local Volvo Penta dealer in St. Charles, MO.
I will start on the block & cranks tomorrow.
More pics & story here: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=321014
Steve


 

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If you haven't purchased the cam yet, consider the later K cam that was used in the F engine rather than the D cam. If you check the cam specs,

http://www.1800philes.com/ianr/_superlist_grinds.html

the lift on the K cam is the same as the D cam. The advertised duration is 3 deg less; but, the duration as measured at 0.05" is identical. The primary difference is a tiny nudge less overlap at small openings which makes for a smoother idling engine. I have also heard anecdotally that the below 3000 RPM performance is better with the K grind; but, have not seen any empirical results to support that claim. I believe Phil S. was a fan of the K grind (when compared to the D grind). If you already have purchased the D grind, then go ahead.

With the block at the machine shop, did you deck the block to establish a correct quench clearance? When reassembling, use a B20B head gasket unless you want a lower compression ratio. All of the new specific fuel injection head gaskets are F gaskets. E gaskets no longer exist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The block & the head were skimmed, mainly to clean them up.
Mine is a B20F for 73. I bought the head gasket set from VP Auto Parts, along with the D cam / lifter kit. It was the part number from my Volvo catalog, so that's what I ordered.
I'm not too worried about more extra performance. This will be a Sunday driver & Euro car show car. It's going to be stock, with the exception of the coil springs & sport exhaust.
Got the block cleaned & primered. I paint it later this afternoon. Hopefully I'll be able to get the crank in yet today.





Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's what mine looked like also!
Crank goes in tonight. Pistons arrive tomorrow. Hopefully the porch pirates don't get them, like they did my ring compressor & ring pliers yesterday!
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Some progress pics. Pretty well buttoned up, I was only sent 7 pushrods though. Hopefully # 8 will arrive in a few days.
I repainted the breather & water pump outlet. The paint must have been from different batches.
I thought I was short a new head bolt also, but found it on my workbench. I do not recall ever removing it from the box, so how it got there is a mystery.





Steve
 

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Is that an original exhaust manifold that you have refinished or one of the new Skandix reproductions?

Its looking a bit like the shiny B20E display engine that Volvo had in some of their 1970-1971 brochures when they first introduced the D jet, except they didn't have the spiffy chrome oil filler cap and valve cover. You are going to cry the first time you do a little work on the engine and chip or scratch some paint with a wrench!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It's the original exhaust manifold. I sandblasted it, painted it with VHT high temperature primer, then painted it with Stovebrite Charcoal paint.
The paint is made for wood burning stoves, grills, etc. I had read that it works great for cast iron manifolds, bought a can off of Amazon & figured I give it a try.
Thanks for the compliment! And you're right, it's going to hurt when I scratch it putting it in the engine bay.
Steve
 
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