[p0cket penguins]

Hey guys,

I wanna run some bbs style 5's from a bmw. Lots of e30 people redrill and fill bbs rs's to fit the fitment... So im guessing If I do that and run some studs it should be fine. Im trying to get a better stanced look ... swap to lower springs and 17's with some stretch and tuck.... any objections?

 

[xman03]

Re: filling and re drilling wheels? (p0cket penguins)

Why not find some adapters and find them with high enough offset.

 

[p0cket penguins]

Re: filling and re drilling wheels? (xman03)

because then you cant run lip.... low offset wheels = larger lip

 

[xman03]

Re: filling and re drilling wheels? (p0cket penguins)

Gotcha, lip with larger wheels typically have lower caliper clearance though. Do you think they will clear the brembo's?

 

[Sue Esponte]

Re: filling and re drilling wheels? (p0cket penguins)

Admittedly, I don't know much about "filling and drilling" but I'm assuming you'd have to weld the holes shut, redrill them and then refinish the entire wheel. I can't imagine it being cheap if done properly...assuming you want them to look good and function properly. Why not just get a set of adapters since you're going to need spacers to get the right offset anyway?

-Eric

 

[p0cket penguins]

Re: filling and re drilling wheels? (xman03)

how so... the diameter of the wheel does not change... the inside of a bbs style 5 is pretty flat and its a 17 inch rim.

 

[p0cket penguins]

Re: filling and re drilling wheels? (Sue Esponte)

Quote, originally posted by Sue Esponte »

Admittedly, I don't know much about "filling and drilling" but I'm assuming you'd have to weld the holes shut, redrill them and then refinish the entire wheel. I can't imagine it being cheap if done properly...assuming you want them to look good and function properly. Why not just get a set of adapters since you're going to need spacers to get the right offset anyway? -Eric

the bbs style 5 have a cap and a flat backing plate to meet the rotor.. so you can easily fill and redrill .. the cap will cover the ugly. adapters will be like running a 15 to 25 mm spacer on an already et 30 wheel... which is no good

 

[Sue Esponte]

Re: filling and re drilling wheels? (p0cket penguins)

Quote, originally posted by p0cket penguins »

because then you cant run lip.... low offset wheels = larger lip

Okay, partially ignore my comment. You're going to have a tough time getting a deep dish wheel to fit on an R given its FWD offset vs. the RWD offset on the Bimmer's wheels. Is there something special about the rims you're considering that you can't find them elsewhere or in a similar style that could be custom cut?

-Eric

 

[p0cket penguins]

Re: filling and re drilling wheels? (Sue Esponte)

if i run a more stretched tire/rolled fender they should have no problem clearing the fender in there 17inch size then the fender gap can be fixed with more aggressive lowering springs. Im getting bored of the look of the car and i wanna change it up before medschool.

 

[AthruC]

Re: filling and re drilling wheels? (Sue Esponte)

Fat lip in the front, thin lip in the rear for a reverse offset?

I did see an offset "looking" set of rims run by a later C70, but they were still the same width. Pretty nifty, but would only clear itty-bitty calipers. Maybe sell your rear calipers to a non-"R" and put on some plain-Jane calipers?

 

[p0cket penguins]

Re: filling and re drilling wheels? (AthruC)

no same sized lip all around.

 

[p0cket penguins]

Re: filling and re drilling wheels? (p0cket penguins)

this is the back side of the rim... i dont see any problems with it hitting teh caliper

 

[xman03]

Re: filling and re drilling wheels? (p0cket penguins)

Doesn't seem like there's that much room.

 

[Sue Esponte]

Re: filling and re drilling wheels? (p0cket penguins)

Quote, originally posted by p0cket penguins »

the bbs style 5 have a cap and a flat backing plate to meet the rotor.. so you can easily fill and redrill .. the cap will cover the ugly.

Okay, now I know the wheels you're talking about. "Done right" doesn't have to be "done pretty" but you still want to make sure that the welds are solid and that the cuts are clean and properly positioned, especially given the constant stress and force that is being placed against them.

-Eric

P.S. Seems like the offsets on these wheels are going to be waaay off from a Peg. You've got to make up for it somehow.

 

[p0cket penguins]

Re: filling and re drilling wheels? (Sue Esponte)

thats why its a project... im sure i can get my hands on some for cheap

 

[LloydDobler]

How I've seen it done without welding, is to get some large hat bushings (like what is commonly in aluminum wheels, only larger) and just bore a much larger hole right on the bolt pattern you want. It wipes out most or all of the old hole, then you just pound the bushings in and you have a strong and safe modification to the wheel. Welds would worry me, personally.

Quote, originally posted by p0cket penguins »

this is the back side of the rim... i dont see any problems with it hitting teh caliper

I think you're missing what people are saying. We're not talking about the diameter being the problem, we're talking about the distance from the mounting flange to the back of the spokes. It's very shallow, the calipers are very fat.

 

[Sue Esponte]

Re: (LloydDobler)

Quote, originally posted by LloydDobler »

How I've seen it done without welding, is to get some large hat bushings (like what is commonly in aluminum wheels, only larger) and just bore a much larger hole right on the bolt pattern you want. It wipes out most or all of the old hole, then you just pound the bushings in and you have a strong and safe modification to the wheel. Welds would worry me, personally.

Care to share a picture of that? Anything I'm envisioning looks like elephantitis of the (lug) nuts.

Maybe I'm just not seeing it straight in my mind, but I can't imagine how that is safer than a weld which should, if done properly, yield a solid piece of metal that is as structurally sound as the original billet. It seems like you're suggesting that there should or could be lobsided holes (portions of which are unfilled and, therefore, unsupported - aka, weaker) in the center of the rim. It was AGES ago but I think Ronal did this to someone's rims (pics were on the site at one point) much to the dismay of the buyer.

How is a bushing that is pounded into a rim (2 pieces of metal) stronger than a weld (1 piece of metal)?

-Eric

P.S. Call it a "project" or whatever this whole thing strikes me as silly. You want to trust welds/bushings/Bubblicious on a Swiss cheese wheel center with the constant stresses of 295tq (from the engine) PLUS cornering forces? I don't care how much you heat and melt the cheese, you're still not going to reproduce a factory spec.

Just my uninformed $.02...and FWIW, I found similar responses on the E30 sites that I checked since I couldn't imagine anyone suggesting this was a good idea.

Modified by Sue Esponte at 4:10 PM 3-31-2009

 

[sanatarium]

Re: (Sue Esponte)

Weld metal if free of contaminants and embrittlement, will be stronger than the base metal. If done properly(call local aerospace job shops, won't be cheap, but will be right) it would be fine. The key is the properly part. You would want this done with TIG and you would want to X-ray or zyglo the welds to confirm 100% penetration without any voids or cracks.

 

[p0cket penguins]

Re: (Sue Esponte)

and r compound tires and break stock rims like no ones business but you dont see everyone crying over that... its nearly as bad as people running adapters and people running redrilled rotors

 

[Sue Esponte]

Re: (p0cket penguins)

Quote, originally posted by p0cket penguins »

and r compound tires and break stock rims like no ones business but you dont see everyone crying over that... its nearly as bad as people running adapters and people running redrilled rotors

Huh? Dude, I have no idea what that means. I'd offer you a response but it would be in a different language: English.

-Eric