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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I dismantled my headlamps to experiment with the blackout style I have seen others do, but not painting everything. Definitely easier to do that, but I don't like them with no definition. DIRECTIONS FOR LENS REMOVAL

Followed the basic directions on the write up thread (C30Crew). Using a narrow gouge tool (used for woodworking, Lino printing, etc.,) I was able to remove 90% of the old butyl from the track. The butyl on the lens, I just heated gently & used a blob of the butyl already removed to rub clear the lens edges. It likes to stick to itself, so rolling a chunk against a thin layer will pickup the thin layer everytime. No need for any chemicals.

I painted the chrome (after light sanding w/1000grit) with Rustoleum trim black. I left the hi-beam reflector & Projector border chrome. Coating the chrome with vaseline, then painting, then wiping the paint off works. Taping the chrome does not.



Sanded the lenses (100k miles, pitted) with 400-7K in 500 grit increments. Then polished with 4 stage compound-polish. Definitely no perfect by any means, but much better than they were.



test fit lenses



Trial fit on the car, comparison with stock.





stock



modded



stock



Pretty happy with the look from various angles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
OK, playing with the Morimoto Kit. The big question is whether moving the projector lens forward 2.5mm from the housing is going to screw the light pattern or projection.

Retro-Quik: Bosch "E46" Bi-Xenon Projectors
2 x Bi-Xenon: Morimoto Mini D2S 5.0: (Round Lens/LHD)
RQ Brackets / Hardware
Optional D2S HID Bulbs: 2 x D2S: XB35 6500K (35W)
Optional New Ballasts: 2 x 50w / D2S: Morimoto XB Ballast

Given that the facelift housing construction is quite different from the early housing, I found that the C30crew guide didn't help specifically.

EDIT : See 3rd/4th post for final revision


EDIT : Wiring into housing


Stock projector housing & alignment frame.



Stock lens relative to shroud



overall depth (seems same as early comparison)



So, no way to use the bracket as intended, the lens housing will not fit with the support frame, and the interference areas would require chopping up the support frame to the point where it would not have integrity.

3 steps for removing Projector frame:

pry outer pivot out



slide off lower inner pivot



remove T25 retaining screw in inner upper adjuster pivot (pic taken with modded projector, forgot to take one originally)




To make it work, I have to put the kit spacer in-between the projector lens and projector housing in order to make it fit. Had to shave a small amount out of the outer frame to clear the lens leg (around 7 o'clock in pic).



This is where the projector will sit. Is that a problem in terms of projection?





Had to drill the fiberglass





sandwiched in place





frame back in place.



first cover on



forward cover on



Igniter sticks out more than early setup



I'm going to have to cut out a relief area & plastic weld an extension.



I'd like to move the whole projector forward in the housing, but... that would entail hacking up the support frame, and it still wouldn't get me the 3/8 - 1/2" needed to make the cover fit.

I can get about 1/4" by cutting these down

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I reworked them today. Not happy with lens offset in front, the ignitor fit in back and the 'sandwiched' plate.

So, I played with the provided spacers, put the lens back where it belongs.



By notching the projector housing so it fits around the mount posts,





and some notching of the frame I could fit the assembly thus, which drops the housing forward :







The problem with that is that I would need 8 spacers per unit, and it's ungainly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
By notching the frame further, and modifying the fiberglass plate, I was able to drop the projector just below the mount posts without requiring the spacers.







overlay on unmodified fiberglass frame



fibreglass frame in place





set into main frame





notched lower inner corner



gives clearance here..



So, with this, the rear cover fits over the ignitor - but - it's tight against it, which means adjustment is impacted.



 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So, I cut down the three mount posts 1/4", and recessed the frame on the outer portion some more to allow the projector housing to sit forward in the main frame





chamfer inner edge of posts to clear housing







Install all 3 screws evenly to keep panel flat



Better offset now



Reinstall frame - Inner upper adjuster first, T25



Slide in lower inner pivot



Spread outer housing & push pivot in place





Now, Igniter sits below cover, with clearance





Lens fit in bezel, look better

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Working on the ballast fitment. Ran the ignitor harness out the back of the housing, so no cut to the access lid. Will seal wire in harness grommet after I have the SKBOWE's & figure out if they can go inside, with only power to ballast & ground exiting.





Ballast is going to go on the headlamp housing - I have to assume the recess on the side of the assembly is for the OEM unit?

Gonna be about like this, properly secured of course.



As such, clears the inner brackets & wiring is not in the way of the retainer mechanism





SKBowe power feed will go alongside (above ignitor feed here).



to be continued.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Worked on the wiring for the SKBOWE/Morimoto ballast. Going to run external harness that plugs into housing, rather than cut rear cover.

Cut out the unused vent casting above the main connector with a barrel dremel bit.



Male connector (4pin) fits perfectly



Male/Female will connect thus:



Wiring to Ignitor passes thus, in channel for existing wiring:



Use a pick to pull the wires out the aperture



Add terminals for Ignitor connector



External connector. Haven't added a pin to the 3rd terminal, until I know what the pin configuration is for the ignitor circuit. The problem is that the "Nick" schematic only shows two wires for the ignitor, the Morimoto XB55 uses 3 wires :(




Hi-Beam shield wired directly to the high beam 9005 connector





But... the plan, according to the wiring diagram on SKBOWE, was to have four wires pass through. That's not going to work, unless one of the 3 ignitor wires is a ground that I can splice into the regular light ground wire (brown). If not, I'm back to having an additional ****ing connector, dammit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Further thought & investigation led me to figure out that a 5 pin connector will fit in the same spot - I had to increase the aperture to 34mm to allow for the larger connector.

This one I cut too wide at the bottom, so will have to repair the excess gap with epoxy


There is enough room between the housing & the factory connector to accept it.





Yesterday I used the 4 pin I have to gauge whether the offset is OK





5 Pin is listed at 38mm wide at the flange.

Got the 5 pin connectors today after all. Got them epoxied into the housing, and wired inside.



Right inside wiring



Left inside



Put the adjuster mechanism back in



Wiring routed under/behind



Projector & frame back in



Making the external harness to feed the SKBOWE, and connect to Ballast Ignitor port

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
SKBOWES came yesterday. Started on the bracket & ballast/SKBOWE layout after work. Pulled the DS wheel & fender liner.

After some fiddling with various width aluminum plate, this is what I settled on in terms of placement Using this for reference):



cable harness will feed up like this:



The inner fender has a several perforations, some of which are perfect for M5 riv-nuts



Waiting for a smaller insert tool to finish this, Astro 1442 is too large to use in the space available for the inner ones.



SKBOWE harness shortened to fit my setup





Both ready. Have to refine the brackets, and probably going to use M4 riv-nuts in the bracket, to secure the ballast & SKBOWE.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Weather was back in the 30's this afternoon, so I was able to work on the install before it got too late & cold again.

Drilled out the factory hole for an M6 Rivnut.





Bracket in place



Ballast & SKBOWE fitted



Ground attached. Resistance from strap to body, 0ohms. From strap to battery, .2ohms.



On the passenger side, I had to redo the bracket. A mirror image of the DS did not work.

Had to drill new hole & M5 rivnut in the outer edge of filler panel to get the bracket where I needed it to sit.





Added ground M6 rivnut like the DS.



Put the Ballast & SKBOWE in place



Harness routed above



Putting the fender skirts back in place, there is a small issue. The bulge in the liner is insufficient to allow for the install. The liner does not sit properly, hence the gap at the bottom



Easy to resolve with a heat gun, heating the area where the existing bulge occurs, allows it to reform around the ballast

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Final revision. Had to move the DS ballast up, the bulge in the fender liner caused wheel rub at full lock. Repositioned the ballast upward, had to tweak the inner fender lip to allow it to sit high enough to use the two lower mount ears. With that, I heated the liner & pushed it back to original form. All clear now.

 
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