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Discussion Starter · #501 ·
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Discussion Starter · #502 ·
Does the condenser/intercooler/radiator drop out the bottom as one unit? Or swing out the top?
It's designed to drop the entire stack out of the bottom. But, you'll have to evacuate the AC. You can wiggle the radiator and intercooler out/in from the top. You'll need to support the condenser.
 

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OK. So I gather you took the whole stack from the bottom? I have vacuum pump and auto AC gauges but never looked through VIDA enough to figure out how to use it to run the compressor during charging (e.g. no jumpering the low switch like on cars of yore)
 

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Discussion Starter · #504 ·
OK. So I gather you took the whole stack from the bottom? I have vacuum pump and auto AC gauges but never looked through VIDA enough to figure out how to use it to run the compressor during charging (e.g. no jumpering the low switch like on cars of yore)
Nope. Out the top.

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Many thanks Exo. Have a motor swap coming up later this year and want to add the DO88 and a fresh radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #506 · (Edited)
I followed @Antherzoll 's lead for the catch can mounting location for us types who live in the land of ice and snow. Hoses and fittings will be here tomorrow.

Adjusted the turbo to OTE pipe coupler. I have a 45 deg coupler. It was too tall causing the OTE pipe to rub against the hood insulation. So, trimmed both ends a bit. 45 deg really isn't the right angle. It really wants to be a little more vertical, maybe 30 deg? Ordered a 30 deg coupler to see how it fits.

Hopefully, finish up the top side work tomorrow morning. Then, install the D5 oil cooler for some quality "under car" time! Then, refill the coolant and fire it up and start looking for leaks.


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Discussion Starter · #507 ·
Catch can installed and top side buttoned up. Getting closer!


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Discussion Starter · #508 ·
Put the top radiator support back in. Closed the hood and right side latch isn't catching. Now what? Looks like the outer latch lever is hitting the AC condenser. Bent the top radiator brackets forward 1/4" (half of what the instructions call for). That helps a little. But, the top of the stack won't go back any farther without cutting the plastic piece that fits between the condenser and the crash bar. Well, the offending lever is only used for RHD cars. Easier to cut it off. Problem solved.

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Discussion Starter · #509 ·
The D5 oil cooler is in! The return hose is about 1mm from the edge of the cooler. Tried bending the return pipe a bit, but didn't get much. Need to get it on a lift and bigger wrenches.

Time to refill the coolant and fire it up! Praying for no leaks!


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Discussion Starter · #511 ·
How fast and from where can I grab one of D5 oil coolers? Wasn't going to bother with it, but with the upcoming oil pan job why not. :)
I got mine used on eBay. It came from Lithuania. $50ish USD. Took about 2.5 weeks to get it.

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Discussion Starter · #512 · (Edited)
Fired it up and let it idle to 20 min. No runs, no drips, no errors! I'm shocked!

I flipped the alarm module to reduce the impact of the dreaded battery leak. Accidentally set off the alarm a while later. Good to know it works!

Put the headlights in and turned them only to see the right parking light was out. So, take out the 8 bolts and screws to replace it. Detours.....

So, everything is done but the bumper cover. Got 2+ hours of work-work to get done this evening. It'll have to wait until tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #513 ·
Did some xenon headlight issue debugging. When I turn on the lights with the engine not running, or start the engine with the lights on, the CEM shuts off the right headlight. Swapped CANBUS adapters. No change. Swapped ballasts. No change. Just have to live with it, I guess.

Bumper cover back on and under engine shield back on. Topped off the transmission fluid. Test drive time. Take it easy through the neighborhoods. No issues. Hit the main road and the low coolant warning starts flickering. Great. Make a beeline for home. Back into the garage. Pop the hood and grab a light. No obvious leaks. Thermostat must of popped fully open. Top that off in the morning. Checked the transmission fluid. A bit high. I'll have to draw out a couple of ounces once tomorrow.

Wife's car is back in the garage. She'll be happy!

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Did some xenon headlight issue debugging. When I turn on the lights with the engine not running, or start the engine with the lights on, the CEM shuts off the right headlight. Swapped CANBUS adapters. No change. Swapped ballasts. No change. Just have to live with it, I guess.

Bumper cover back on and under engine shield back on. Topped off the transmission fluid. Test drive time. Take it easy through the neighborhoods. No issues. Hit the main road and the low coolant warning starts flickering. Great. Make a beeline for home. Back into the garage. Pop the hood and grab a light. No obvious leaks. Thermostat must of popped fully open. Top that off in the morning. Checked the transmission fluid. A bit high. I'll have to draw out a couple of ounces once tomorrow.

Wife's car is back in the garage. She'll be happy!

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Is your car still set to factory halogen? Might just be a pwm/amperage draw issue. Could set the car to xenon w/Vdash and try without canbus adapters! Then CEM would be expecting xenon power draw

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Catch can installed and top side buttoned up. Getting closer!


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You need to be careful here, the PCV hose end kinks easily here. Also you want as big ID silicone hose as possible here, for better air flow and more vacuum.

I removed my oil catch can after rebuilding the engine. With the new piston rings the engine does not have much blow-by gases.
 

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Discussion Starter · #517 ·
Is your car still set to factory halogen? Might just be a pwm/amperage draw issue. Could set the car to xenon w/Vdash and try without canbus adapters! Then CEM would be expecting xenon power draw

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Yes, I assume it's still set for halogen. Can that be changed with VIDA?
 

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Discussion Starter · #518 · (Edited)
You need to be careful here, the PCV hose end kinks easily here. Also you want as big ID silicone hose as possible here, for better air flow and more vacuum.

I removed my oil catch can after rebuilding the engine. With the new piston rings the engine does not have much blow-by gases.
Yes, that is true. I cut the 45 deg elbow off the original PCV hose, so no awkward bend. It's 5/8" ID hose. I put a bit of slack in the hoses to keep the bend radius large enough to prevent kinking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #519 ·
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