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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2001 S60 2.4T
I had to replace seals on cams front and back, installing new timing belt, got all marks lined up correctly, vvt at limit everything lined up...
Once I set everything with cam tool locked, I then remove cam tool so I can turn crank CW 2 rotations to check all marks line up after doing so. Alls good, all marks line up on the cam pulleys and the crank.
This is where my question comes in, I look at the back of the cams and the rear exhaust cam is not horizontal with the intake, why and how did it move? It's turned approximately 1/4 inch, but front marks are all aligned... Started the car slight miss in idle, revs up good, timing is not right. Ran perfect before. When I originally took it apart the rear cams were both not aligned horizontally, so I can't figure this out, please anyone help!
 

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Wow. People don't just hang out waiting to reply instantaneously. Patience.

The short answer is you did something wrong.

I'm a dealer tech and I normally take a couple of times (or more) before I get this right.

Lock the cams again, loosen the VVT hub and gear and do it again. Pay close attention to how many teeth before the marks you are before you torque the hub bolt and adjust as necessary if you're off.

I won't be waiting here to be your personal technical help desk but I'll check back later.
 

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Make sure your vvt cam hubs are locked all the way in the clockwise position when aligning the cam gear marks with the cam cover notches after tightening the big torx cam bolt.

It's really simple...with the tool on the back locked. Install the cam gear...slightly snug the cam bolt down tight enough to where the cam gear won't turn, but only the vvt hub portion turns...then move the hub all the way to the locked position ( clockwise).... It should be now aligned with the notches on the cam cover. If not. Un-snug the cam bolt, then re-align the can gear until it lines up with the cam cover notches while being all the locked in the clockwise position in the vvt hub, it is now lined up, tighten down the cam bolt to spec.

If you did all that and it still shifts, you have a faulty vvt hub, simple as that, and I have seen this situation before. ....and guess what, the exhaust cam hub is usually the one that wears out and has in and out end play as you rotate it by hand....it should have none...
BTW, you sound like a impatient little kid. Its the holidays, not everyone is on here at your beckoning call...esp someone who just joined...and you are the one asking for help because you don't know what you are doing..be more patient
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, so I am a bit impatient.. when everyone else here is getting replies but me, until now, thanks to both of you for your suggestions, I am gonna give it another go right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK, just got done resetting timing again, everything was lined up correct took locking tool off cams and turned motor twice, all marks lined up on front but again the rear exhaust cam was not horizontal with intake cam, intake cam is set as should be but the exhaust cam either retards or advances (not sure which direction is which) about 1/8 of a turn. I backed it up CCW turn again same thing at rear of cams, I then manually twist exhaust cam back into place(with timing belt on) and again turn crank twice same thing , cams not horizontal, started the car still runs like timing is off. I then did a compression test to be sure I didn't bend any valves in the process of messing with timing, here's my numbers cyl #1-155 cyl #2-151 cyl #3-150 cyl #4-155 cyl #5-155 seems that alls good, I did some some wet plugs in 4 and 5 cyl, so Im gonna switch coil packs around and see if plugs dry out. I will post back tomorrow Im getting to old for this stuff!
 

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its very simple you have a 2001 turbo which has the older spring loaded cam gear. put the gear a few teeth from alignment mark. then tighten central bolt, install the plug. route the belt but before u put belt on exhaust cam gear use a t55 torx on cam plug and load the gear all the way clockwise ther is going to be spring resistance. then put belt on while gear is loaded. simple
 

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As another person posted, and as I have mentioned, you have to turn the cam hubs in the locked positioned clock wise. The older P2 cars did have spring loaded cam hubs that you have to physically hold in the clockwise position as you put the timing belt on...the main point the other poster is saying is...the spring loaded cam hub needs to be physically held clockwise at the same time so that it lines up with the notches as you put the belt on...sometimes I use a cam gear holder to assist in holding it as I put the belt on because you need to hold the tensioner, to allow play to slide the belt on the exhaust cam gear. Again, if..you are correctly doing this procedure, then your exhaust cam hub is faulty. I have seen this happen. I replaced the hub, did not shift anymore..good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks again for your sugestions, I guess I have a faulty vvt hub. The only thing is that the car ran perfect before I started repair and when I originally took it apart the cam was in the same location it is now(before I took timing belt off). Im strapped for cash right now and this is my only car, I might have to bite the bullet and send it to mech. When I originally took the vvt hub off I looked inside and all the teeth looked good, vvt springs CW and back just fine it seems like such a simple hub how could it be bad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the wet plugs I realized after I posted are due to motor not firing while doing a compression test, obviously plugs are gonna be wet by the time I got to 4 and 5!!! I was just hoping for an obvious solution and thought I found one....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Before getting a vvt hub I was wondering if anyone has had one go bad the way mine has, being it ran perfect before repair, and now car will run perfectly for about 10 seconds and then start a small miss, when I drive it it lacks power. Again if my cams weren't horizontal to begin with how did the car run perfect prior to repair? If my hub is bad when I go to turn it should it be smooth, do I have to reposition( loosen and re torque) to another spring loaded position to see if it gets less resistance when turned CW?
 

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i think this is installer error as you said it ran fine before and does not after the repair. the fact is it will start and run fine for couple seconds and then the car will run like crap because the ecu cannot adjust timing to where it need to be.
 

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If the tool in the back is locked...the cams are not going to change position, they are locked in the proper position. If the op said he locks both cam hubs in the clockwise position, and they line up perfect with the notches on cam cover, and his crank is lined up, then when he turns it over by hand, its out a bit, its the vvt hub shifting internally. I have seen this once, where the hub itself shifted internally... Replaced the hub and all was fine. I am only saying this barring he has done the timing properly. I agree that this still could be install error, but sometimes if worn to the limit, it just takes a little disturbance to mess this up...
I would say, take it to a professional first to verify your did the procedure properly, then if it still shifts after turning over, put a hub in it. Good luck
 

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i hope that the vvt actuator is the thing that is wrong. i just had this exact issue with our '03 v40, the actuator was leaking and be came more variable in timing than it should have been. it was quite flaky in fact. no other change other than the actuator.

best of luck to the problem solver.

i hope it is the ugh, $300 part.

best of luck, and happy new year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks guys, and Happy New Year. I was really glad to see some input here as I am at a loss about this vvt if that's the problem. I agree to that its install error, but when Ive done it 5-6 times(resetting timing) making sure all is right and feeling I couldn't be more correct, all lines up, crank it and that rear cam goes from being non horizontal with intake. I got to check the coils, thinking that could be the issue? Called mechanic yesterday to see about scheduling apt and he asked what problem was, I stated I replaced belt and having issues with a miss now. He basically said call back on Monday Ill talk to my tech and see if he wants to do it, he kind of told me he's not in to fixing other peoples mistakes.. Ill be calling another mechanic I know, the first guy was a Volvo specialist as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got the car running perfect once again!!! What a good time it was doing a timing belt change and replacing all the cam seals, putting it back together and wouldn't run right, reset the vvt pulley, got to concerned about the rear cams not being horizontal once taking the locking tool off and hand cranking the motor. Everyone said should line up all times, well I have received different info stating that it will adjust and wont be exactly horizontal with intake once crank turned. So I started looking in to coil packs, did a compression test, found that I had a hairline crack in the porcelain part of spark plug #3, put old plugs back in and car runs perfect again. I just bought the plugs few months ago so didn't think plugs could be bad, well I was wrong I bought the cheapest plugs rated in the book at Walmart and at $1.10 a piece I thought great.. I have read turbos run hot and need the platininum type, I bought copper thinking no big deal, next time I buy the platinum. Thanks to all here who helped me figure this deal out hope it helps others.
 

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Glad it worked out! I have to do my own timing belt in about 20k. So, this peaked my interests.
 
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