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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had always thought that the R's side-hop issue related to 4C "trying too hard" with the super soft springs that came from the factory. I was convinced that 4C would be infinitely better if it could be re calibrated to work with stiffer springs (much like the newer 4C cars, where 4C was not an afterthought, but an option destined to adorn the chassis from inception). I thought this, until I lowered my XC70 and experienced side-hop worse than my S60R ever experienced on NY/NJ roadwork zones.

In my never ending quest to improve my XC70's (mostly R) suspension, as well as get my alignment as "green" as possible, I decided to go with TKi's rear toe bars, and some Powerflex poly rear bushings from ViVA. I originally thought that worn bushings were the culprit (and they partially are), but I believe I know exactly what causes this horrible phenomenon. One of the other forum members who made a similar post relating to poly replacement and side-hop was spot on. This is why. (I will give credit later to some current threads and their original posters).

The forward-most control arm in the rear is flimsy to begin with. It is soft enough to move by hand, and directly relates to how the rear toe of the car is kept in check. It is flaccid in nature, and makes me uncomfortable to talk about. In my circumstance (160K), every time I hit a bump, the rear of the car would hop around to an almost dangerous extent...

This bushing also relates directly to the alignment spec of the rear toe. The reason that "setting the rear toe to zero" solves side-hop issues (or helps it), is because the play left/right of the rear wheel is kept more on center. Even with my stock bushing still in the car, the TKi rear bars set to zero toe (+/- .02) has helped with 95% of what I was experiencing.

That all being said, I had a bitch of a time trying to press out these rear bushings. Volvo calls for a special tool, and professional bushing sets cost close to $1000. I have replaced my own IPD camber bushings quite easily, but the bushing in question (#5) is almost impossible to pull without one of these tools. A few posts (one of which I will reference shortly) suggests cutting the bushing out, which will be what my next attempt consists of (but with manual saws, not power tools - I think using power tools in a confined space without a lift is incredibly dangerous). If you want to eliminate side-hop, and your factory toe will not go to zero, I'd say get a TKi toe bar, then get this bushing. I also tried the similar method to press out some other bushings in the knuckle and could not get them to budge. I will try again when I have access to a lift.

I would also like to mention that the corresponding bushing (#8) on the same arm is very soft as well. If you are looking to keep things as straight as an arrow at all times, I'd suggest replacing this in addition. I will fortunately be able to do this, as my rear dust shields were cut back, but it would involve removing the hub on an unmodified car.

Bushings that I am referencing:


TKi rear toe bars:


Credit due:

Zeljko_M with the original inspiring post that got me to tear apart my rear suspension:
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?166926-P2R-suspension-solved!

A writeup by Mike_VR6MT on replacing the bushing in question:
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...oe-control-arm-bushing-installation-tips-V70R
 

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side question...is that really a stock rear sway bar?
 

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I've noticed how juicy this bushing is when trying to locate the source of my toe changes over bumps. Really not thrilled about replacing them at all, and I've got the luxury of an air conditioned shop with a hoist. Still wrapping mg head around how to build a proper remover/installer BEFORE I remove the control arm. Good post, thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That was a stock photo from the TKi site. I have IPD track spec VR sway bars with TKi end links. My car is lower than a stock R.

On the drive in to work this morning it was a night/day difference with just the rear toe bar.

Tommy, if you're down for a "shop day," I'd love to attack both of ours. I will be seeing if I can borrow some shop grade bushing tools.
 

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That was a stock photo from the TKi site. I have IPD track spec VR sway bars with TKi end links. My car is lower than a stock R.

On the drive in to work this morning it was a night/day difference with just the rear toe bar.

Tommy, if you're down for a "shop day," I'd love to attack both of ours. I will be seeing if I can borrow some shop grade bushing tools.
Yea I'd do a shop day... it would be great! But it would have to be sometime after second half of July... i've got a wedding coming up :)
 

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I need to upgrade a few things back there as well. Starting with the sway bar, toe bars, and links.
Then to bushings. I feel now that my R has over 100k, the side hop has gotten more noticeable depending on the condition of the road.

Soon i'll just do a whole suspension refresh.
 

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That all being said, I had a bitch of a time trying to press out these rear bushings. Volvo calls for a special tool, and professional bushing sets cost close to $1000. I have replaced my own IPD camber bushings quite easily, but the bushing in question (#5) is almost impossible to pull without one of these tools. A few posts (one of which I will reference shortly) suggests cutting the bushing out, which will be what my next attempt consists of (but with manual saws, not power tools - I think using power tools in a confined space without a lift is incredibly dangerous). If you want to eliminate side-hop, and your factory toe will not go to zero, I'd say get a TKi toe bar, then get this bushing. I also tried the similar method to press out some other bushings in the knuckle and could not get them to budge. I will try again when I have access to a lift.
Burn it out with a $12 torch? Has worked for me so far.

If you don't want to do that, I've seen guys with custom-made bushing presses made with about $20 in parts from Lowe's. Pictures on this forum somewhere, about 4-6 years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was using one of those DIY presses and the bushing wouldn't budge. I'll be trying again soon.

Bushing 5 is right next to the plastic gas tank, so I think I'll pass on the torch method...
 

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Thanks for the info. I totally forgot about the TKi rear toe bars and I will be investing in those. I have already purchased the powerflex bushings Zeljko_M mentioned in his thread, just a matter of finding the time to put them in or have someone put them in.. Please keep us updated with how you replace them if you do it yourself.
 

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well, keeping this thread handy for future reference.
 
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