Euro lights ?
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I have e-code headlamps and corners on my 940. They are made by Scan-tech, an aftermarket supplier. From my experience with the quality, I recommend spending the extra for Volvo (Cibie) if you're going to do it. These are available from Verrigni Marine in FL (if you are in the US), or from a guy in Finland named Juha (post if you want his contact info, or just do a search).
Either way it's a huge improvement in lighting over US spec 940 lights. You'd need to run relays to take full advantage of the lights, however.
Either way it's a huge improvement in lighting over US spec 940 lights. You'd need to run relays to take full advantage of the lights, however.
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Lights...from europe.
American lighting standards are not so good so this is why people like to switch to the europen lights which are brighter and have a better beam pattern.
When talking about older Volvos (240/740/940), the euro (or E-code) lights have glass lenses and metal reflectors while the US lights often had plastic lenses and plastic reflectors. The advantage of E-code lights is that the beam pattern is usually sharper and the components can take the heat of higher wattage bulbs (assuming you upgrade the wiring too). The disadvantage of US spec lights is that the plastic lenses turn yellow or foggy, and because of the plastic, they don't produce the "best" light. E-code lights are an improvement even if you don't increase the wattage.
This is a little fuzzy, but it's my 940 with european lights and signals.
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here's some wallpaper I scarfed at the volvo site before it went away. Some other really nice pix I wish I had downloaded!
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and a few pictures of when I had clear turns (which I returned for the two-tone because of preference and since one was defective)
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These are made by DJ auto under the ScanTech brand - I question the quality but the price was right. If I did it again I'd source the Volvo/Cibie parts, either from Verrigni in FL or Juha in Finland or a dealer in Europe (and bring back enough to sell to break even!)
Great lighting. The upper corner lights are dual filament clear bulbs, either 21W DRLs, 21W (lights off), which step down to 5W in park and lights-on. the lower corner lights are one element directional flasher, either amber bulb/clear lense or clear/amber lense.
Headlights are H4 90/100 (there are all kinds of options from 55W on up. Lower inside fogs are 55W H3 (or H1, I forget now!). Upper inside highs are 100W (could be less of course).
Aiming is key. Clear cutoff beam pattern illuminates the upper right shoulder on about a 15 degree slant from dead ahead. It takes a while to get used to the sharp cutoff.
I have 4 relays (6 counting the relays that control the DRLs) and 12V coming from the battery through various soldered Y connectors. I have blown two 90/100 Narva bulbs, if it happens again I'll step down. I think the high wattage bulbs are more susceptable. Funny, I get the bulbs from a place in CT that supplies ski areas with bulbs for their German snow making and grooming equipment.
Only disadvantage so far is that I have set other cars on fire by flashing them with my high beams. Actually, unlike before this upgrade, I seldom get flashed when I use my fog lights (which are more effective than the US spec originals).
here's some wallpaper I scarfed at the volvo site before it went away. Some other really nice pix I wish I had downloaded!
and a few pictures of when I had clear turns (which I returned for the two-tone because of preference and since one was defective)
These are made by DJ auto under the ScanTech brand - I question the quality but the price was right. If I did it again I'd source the Volvo/Cibie parts, either from Verrigni in FL or Juha in Finland or a dealer in Europe (and bring back enough to sell to break even!)
Great lighting. The upper corner lights are dual filament clear bulbs, either 21W DRLs, 21W (lights off), which step down to 5W in park and lights-on. the lower corner lights are one element directional flasher, either amber bulb/clear lense or clear/amber lense.
Headlights are H4 90/100 (there are all kinds of options from 55W on up. Lower inside fogs are 55W H3 (or H1, I forget now!). Upper inside highs are 100W (could be less of course).
Aiming is key. Clear cutoff beam pattern illuminates the upper right shoulder on about a 15 degree slant from dead ahead. It takes a while to get used to the sharp cutoff.
I have 4 relays (6 counting the relays that control the DRLs) and 12V coming from the battery through various soldered Y connectors. I have blown two 90/100 Narva bulbs, if it happens again I'll step down. I think the high wattage bulbs are more susceptable. Funny, I get the bulbs from a place in CT that supplies ski areas with bulbs for their German snow making and grooming equipment.
Only disadvantage so far is that I have set other cars on fire by flashing them with my high beams. Actually, unlike before this upgrade, I seldom get flashed when I use my fog lights (which are more effective than the US spec originals).
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any links to places i can buy these lights
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