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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, the past 2 Mondays, after my car has sat for 1-2 days over the weekend, the ETS light comes on when I start my 2000R and it idles a little funky. Keep in mind this is in Fairbanks and the car was sitting at between -10 and 0 for most of the time. However, if I let it idle for a while, turn it off, do a hard reset by disconnecting the battery and touching the cables together for a little while, THEN restart, the light is nowhere to be seen, and it doesn't show up again for another week, until after the car has been sitting a day or two.

Car has 123k, and I don't think the ETM has been replaced because it has a white sticker, but not sure.

Potentially related: My car is winterized with oil pan, tranny, battery, and block heaters, and I usually have it plugged in for an hour before I try and start it.

Should I be concerned? The car still runs fine most of the time, and I don't just want to throw $500 at a new ETM if I don't really need it.

Any and all advice appreciated!
 

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It's probably going
Like the ABS modules, it can start by intermittent ETS lights
After a while the light will stay on all the time and the car will crap out
 

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I think if the ETS light comes on, it's a pretty concentrated indicator that the ETM is failing. If it was a CEL, it could be any number of things, whereas the ETS light is only meant for one thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That's what I was thinking/afraid of. I just didn't know if there were any other possibilities. A new XeMODex ETM is already on the way.
 

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The ETS light came on in my 99 and it was the brake pedal sensor
 

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sorry...2000 I meant
 

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I didn't say run out and buy one ASAP, you need to pull the codes
 

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If your ETM is on the way out, and you feel confident in your soldering abilities, you can buy a new Sacer TPS from Matt at Midwest ABS.

It is much cheaper than a whole new ETM, but is very much a DIY approach. A few forum members have had good results with that method. https://www.midwest-abs.com/ETM-Sacer.php
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It is still the original in the car now, and this is not the first time it's given me problems. It will need to be replaced sooner or later, and I'd rather have a new one on hand when it does fail. The postal sled dogs around here don't usually ship very fast.
 

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If you're keeping it for a while, just get a new one from Volvo or a xeMODex, at the same time you may want to consider a new MAF if that too is old
They usually seem to crap out togetehr or soon thereafter
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
UPDATE! I just my new ETM from Xemodex, and have a spare MAF kicking around (somewhere?). I haven't replaced anything yet. However, this morning the caR was acting up again. It started in the cold and idled fine, but as soon as I started driving it seemed WAY under powered. Even when I got into it a little bit, it was super slow even when getting up to 4k rpms. The shifting also seemed a bit erratic. It did still get up to 55mph on the way to work, but I felt like I was driving my old Benz 240D through sand. No codes are being thrown either. Is this just my ETM on the way out still? Or could it be something else?
 

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ETM
Seriously, do you need to get hit over the head already?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ETM
Seriously, do you need to get hit over the head already?

HA! Apparently. Looks like I'll be tinkering in sub-zero temps tonight.
 

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Not the best of ideas
You really need to find a warmer place to pull it inside to do this.
Rubber will crack or break (at best).
Worse, who knows!
Don't forget you need to buy a new throttle gasket
 

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Do yourself a favor and remove the fan shroud to gain easy access to the ETM. I learned this the hard way when doing my PCV system, and it was nearly impossible to get the ETM back in place without removing the fan shroud.

Also, I'd recommend modifying your fan shroud while you have it off to gain more clearance when it is on the car.
 

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I think if the ETS light comes on, it's a pretty concentrated indicator that the ETM is failing. If it was a CEL, it could be any number of things, whereas the ETS light is only meant for one thing.
As mentioned above, a failing pedal position sensor can cause an ETS light. Anything in the ETS system (accelerator pedal, brake sensor, etc) can set the ETS light, not just the ETM itself...

Heck, when my ETM failed, I had no ETS OR CEL. Car was so bad that it went into limp-home during EVERY drive cycle, but no lights ever came on :D

Oh, and I agree with Jim 100%. These are enough of a pain in a warm garage, I wouldn't even consider doing this one in the cold ;).

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, I was able to call in a favor and found some garage space this weekend (it was -40F this weekend). 3 hours later I had a fresh ETM and coolant expansion tank + hoses replaced. Holy buttnuggets Batman, I had no idea how bad my ETM was! Not only does my car seem to start better, but the pedal is way more responsive and I'm pretty sure the hard downshift from 3rd to second under acceleration is now gone, which makes sense in retrospect. It feels like a new car! Props to XeMODex on the new unit, it made it here to Fairbanks in less than two days. And as always, thanks to the online Volvo community for yet again saving me hundreds of dollars and teaching me about my car.
 

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Maybe -40 at the airport, but who hangs out at the airport?
But, abso-FRACKIN-lutley too cold to work outside, no doubt.

Glad to hear you got a XeMODex, dude.
Should be cool forever!
 
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