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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

I have an issue as the title says that maybe some of you may be able to answer. I have an 06 S60R that has maybe 120 miles on a completely rebuilt B5244T5 along with all new supporting parts such as turbo, sensors, vacuum lines, ultrasonically cleaned and tested injectors, PCV, plugs and the lot etc.

The problem is the car "hunts" for a lack of better words on idle. The RPM doesn't move up or down at all but it's as if there's a slight, bump or hesitation momentarily that happens a few times per minute. Smooth hum for about 20 seconds and then this hunt for a second, then back to smooth.

So, while running live data monitoring the car idles at a solid 700 RPM, fuel pressure is 44.3 psi, there are no cylinder misses on the cylinder count. The timing advance shows 11-12 degrees solid, but when the hunt happens it shows that the timing will vary from -1 to 26 degrees and then smooth out back to 11-12 degrees. It will do this constantly with the erratic timing during the hunt. My question of course is what could be causing this? What sensor or component tells the computer to adjust?

I've ran a clean no leak smoke test, new OE upstream o2 sensor, MAF cleaned with factory air cleaner. I've ran the car with the VVT selonoids, and MAF disconnected with no change just to see if would stop, no CEL codes, checked sensor connections. I'm sure I'm missing something but what???

When cruising the car its smooth until you get to a stop and then the idle issue. When getting on it a bit I'll hear a slight pop backfire and hesitation.

I am at a loss and or course frustrated when you take every precaution that these cars need on parts etc. just to have issues on something totally brand new. I don't even know what else to look at or replace. Thanks in advance for ANY help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
My experts! Anyone willing to venture a guess? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
WWhen you refer to timing advance, are you referring to adaptation?
No, idle timing BTDC. 11-12 degrees is where it should be at 700 RPM but will have the aforementioned -1 to 26 degrees for a split second. I don't know if something electrical is causing the issue from CPU to adjust, like maybe a stray signal or not. Very strange. My VIDA decided to quit working on me so I'm having that resolved to go deeper into it. I'd like to watch cam angles and see if something is amiss there. I don't think the cam VVT hubs would be at fault but anything is possibe.
 

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Can you log your throttle position and see if there's any association with the idle blips?

Mine did something similar when the throttle body harness was for some reason not making a great connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'll do that for sure, curious myself on that! Waiting for my VIDA laptop to get back and I'll check it. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Not yet, I haven't messed with the car in a few weeks. I DID receive my VIDA hard drive back and got my laptop fired up and working but then went on a work trip for a couple weeks without hooking it up yet. Once these single digit temps warm up a bit I'll start back in on it. I'll update.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just an update but not a solution as of yet and that is, with VIDA connected and watching live data, I'm seeing that the aforementioned timing is all over the place when this "hunt" happens. What I'm also seeing in watching cam angles is that the intake cam is moving a bit while at a 700 RPM idle. The read out on both cams is 6.5 degrees initially and as the intake cam jumps to 7.5 back to 6 and then steadies out back to 6.5 degrees that's when the hunt happens and the timing jumps at the same time, the exhaust cam is rock steady however.

So, I disconnected the cam solenoid to see if that would eliminate the issue but that made no difference. I'm curious if the VVT hub is defective or the timing jump is affecting the cam, but you'd think it would affect the exhaust cam angle as well, idle doesn't fluctuate at all during this issue.

What are your thoughts, possible bad VVT, an erratic Crank position sensor or something else? I'm still digging for the cause.
 

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Almost everyone uses ignition timing as a rapid way to control idle speed swings, so you may be seeing an effect and not a cause.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Almost everyone uses ignition timing as a rapid way to control idle speed swings, so you may be seeing an effect and not a cause.
Right! That would be true but that the idle doesn't fluctuate any appreciable amount during it is odd. I'm also wondering what is the effect or the cause, who is effecting who. Hopefully get the bottom of it soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Alright, an update but still no real solution as of yet.

I work on the car when I can but here is what I have additionally tried so far recently to hopefully resolve this issue but overall no dice. All these parts are known good parts, I didn't buy these.

1. CPS (crank position sensor)
2. A different set of injectors
3. Fuel pressure sensor
4. Throttle body
5. different set of coils
6. Inspected every electrical connection for breaks
7. Pulled the ECU to make sure of no corrosion on the pins, all good
8. Checked to make sure I had the correct set of cam sensor "cams", I didn't think I had these wrong because it probably wouldn't run but running out of areas to look.
9. Now, one thing I tried and thought I had solved the issue was I ran a 4 gauge ground wire from one of the bell housing bolts to the frame. Sanded bolts and connections and applied di-electric grease. I've ran into issues like this on other cars ignition wise and have seen where an additional ground would clear up electrical gremlins. I know there is one from the head to the firewall but maybe this would help.

I installed, started the car and the car DID sound like it had more authority when started. It had the "hick" just a couple times and then totally smoothed out! It ran smooth for the 15 minutes I let it run while occasionally revving it and live monitoring the ignition angle. Not one time did it do it!! SUCCESS or so I thought. Next day start it up and yeah, it's like I never worked on it, right back to where it was. Beyond stumped at that but maybe I'm on to something?

I question why did it run smooth for that amount of time then back to where it was? I can't stand intermittent problems and I'm baffled. I've also checked all coil grounds and even removed and cleaned up the body ground on the drivers side under the firewall that goes to the frame, it was a rusty.

I honestly don't know what else to look at. The idiocy continues.
 
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