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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I noticed my car struggling to start but felt much more like a vacuum leak. Sure enough the vacuum hose to the upper manifold was disconnected but I noticed I had a hard time lining it up which hadn’t happened before. After taking a step back I realized the engine it slanted towards the battery - is this the left side engine mount gone bad?


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Probably. Could be the "front" (right side) mount allowing movement, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There’s been a lot of clattering noise coming from the front end recently but I just chocked it up to something loose under the hood, guess it was my entire engine lol. Now when I put it into drive I can feel a slipping feeling almost like the whole transmissions moving first before the car does. New parts ordered, hopefully they’ll be here before the 4th. The right side mount is only <2 yrs old so hopefully it’s still good, same for the torque mount.


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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
This is a picture of the mount under the battery, is the bolt completely missing here?
View attachment 52781

with the engine being tilted like this its obviously bad, but is it ok to drive home - i have a replacement mount coming but highly doubt it comes with replacement hardware - looks like ill have to visit the local u-pull it once again.
 

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"Invalid attachment" - can't see anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The pictures just of the snapped off inside the top of the transmission, the car at the salvage yard had the older style mount so I didn’t even bother with it, I’m hoping I have a spare bolt that will fit somewhere in the garage if not I guess I’ll have to order one.

As for drilling the old one out I guess this will have to be my first time extracting a bolt - any suggestions or words of wisdom?


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I recently had to drill out some exhaust flange bolts on a Ford Ranger.

I found that ordinary drill bits didn't work well at all, but I bought some Bosch cobalt bits and they drilled it out without a problem.
 

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cobalt or tungsten carbide - some oil/ WD-40 and go to work. I tried to drill out the bolts for my knuckle because one of them snapped off while I was installing the bearing retaining bracket. Again I suck and don't have the luck one would need to do the job the right way the first time. I figured out a workaround but I hope you have better luck than me. If you got the kit it'll come with a new arm for you to put in there.

GIven that the bolt snapped and pulled out of some of the threads, I would replace the whole bracket anyways if you can afford it. it's also a lot easier to do on your atuo than on our manuals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Do you guys know if the bracket is the same between the newer and older mount styles? the donor car at the yard had the older style mount but im wondering if i can still use that bolt and bracket ? The bolt has a slightly larger base (18mm instead of 15mm) but i assume the actual post should be the same?
 

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Do you guys know if the bracket is the same between the newer and older mount styles? the donor car at the yard had the older style mount but im wondering if i can still use that bolt and bracket ? The bolt has a slightly larger base (18mm instead of 15mm) but i assume the actual post should be the same?
It doesn't look like it - https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?192646-How-to-Left-Side-Trans-Mount

This thread shows the bottom of the mount being square to mate up to a square bracket, which is the old style. Since you have a 2008, your bracket is round and your mount is round. You could in theory get the old bracket off the junkyard one, return your newer style mount that you ordered and order an old style mount but if I recall correctly - the entire kit for us to upgrade to the newer style that comes with the bolts and the bracket is the same cost as the new mount by itself.



PN for your kit would be: 30778931 $96 from tasca - according to this thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...smission-mount-quot-Upgrade-Replacement-Notes

A new old-style mount from aftermarket sources is still $85, so it's only $10 more to do the entire kit and replace the bracket with new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for this, while the bracket is different i wonder if i can use the older style bolt with the new bracket - guess theres only one way to find out.
 

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Thanks for this, while the bracket is different i wonder if i can use the older style bolt with the new bracket - guess theres only one way to find out.
I personally wouldn't use it unless the flange of the oldstyle bolt fits inside the entire circle of the mount. If the flange is meant to distribute the force, and if the old-style bolt is too big, you are putting all the force of the weight of that mount on the little bit of the bolt that is touching the mount, which means less surface area to share the load, and a higher chance something is going to fail sooner given it is doing something it wasn't designed to do. Will be an interesting experiment though. Is it possible to get another one from your hardware store down there (preferably Grade 12.9 or the metric equivalent), for just a few $$ to replace the old one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well long story short, i messed up - not bad but i ordered a new mounting bracket anyways along with the mount anyways - i drilled most of the bolt out but also sheered the threading, i was considering trying to tap the bracket i have now but all i need for is to mess that up too :p

View attachment 52831
IMG_3247[1].jpg
IMG_3246[1].jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
For future reference, the two bolts that hold the Upper passenger engine mount to the engine are the same size as the ones for the newer style driver side mount. I assume this was why the decision was made by volvo for the upgraded style to share the same bolt, more cost effective and easier to replace for sure.
 

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Dang dude, sorry to hear the bad news.
 

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Just drill it through and use a nut/bolt combo
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just drill it through and use a nut/bolt combo
I thought about that but wasnt sure if it would be safe, i would want a snug fit considering the engine motion and weight. if i were desperate without vehicle i would have done it as a temp fix but im fortunate to have a spare vehicle.
 

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You may be right, I haven't had my S40 for a while, but I remember the supports would hang the engine over the car frame, and the bolts would just secure it in place. So for example, even if the mounts failed, the engine would remain in the bay, and not drop out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thats why i was able to drive it for a while after it snapped, the engine was just wiggling in the engine bay like a loose tooth. I guess we can add this feat to the Volvo durability test - The car will continue to operate even if the engine is not mounted.
 
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