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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was driving my R fine today.. when i went in a store to get something, and when i came to leave the car wont turn on. Pulled the fuses, and it takes away the Engine Service message for a few minutes, and then it comes back up. Car wont unlock, or lock with the remote. Radio works, headlights work ect.. but none of the door buttons or steering wheel buttons work. It also won't accept any jumps from another car. Ive never had this issue before so im not exactly sure what it is... a few minutes before a parked the car the low oil refill message came up, but then went away 2 minutes later. It just makes one click sound when i try to turn it on an thats it... =-[
 

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Last time you changed the Battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
3 months ago.. its not a battery issue though, or at least i don't think it is.. because the radio is working along with almost everything else in the car
 

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My guess is that you have a relay or fuse that is out.

When you turn the key to position 2, do you hear the fuel pump prime the engine? If the fuel pump doesn't prime and the car doesn't get a feed back from the FPM, then it won't start the car. I would guess that would be determined in 1 click of the starter. Being that it's effecting a wide spectrum of items, my guess would be a relay... possibly off the command module.
 

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I was driving my R fine today.. when i went in a store to get something, and when i came to leave the car wont turn on. Pulled the fuses, and it takes away the Engine Service message for a few minutes, and then it comes back up. Car wont unlock, or lock with the remote. Radio works, headlights work ect.. but none of the door buttons or steering wheel buttons work. It also won't accept any jumps from another car. Ive never had this issue before so im not exactly sure what it is... a few minutes before a parked the car the low oil refill message came up, but then went away 2 minutes later. It just makes one click sound when i try to turn it on an thats it... =-[
You just installed a FMIC, right? My guess would be that the charge piping and/or a clamp between the intercooler and the throttle body is touching the starter.
 

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Make sure the smaller GREEN/RED wire is connected to the starter. They sometimes can come off and will not activate the starter solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Appreciate the help guys, ill give it a go an update you.
 

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Guys, I may be going to look at his car this weekend. If it's the starter being shorted, will it be ok once we clear it or will it be toast?
Prienzo, if the pipe did make contact with the Red point of the starter solenoid, the starter solenoid and pipe would be toast unless he popped the relay that runs that section of the fuses. If I was you, I'd make a list of everything he's having problems with, electrical wise and see which of the 3-4 locations all those are tethered to. It's not going to be a simple pipe or wire connection. Wire's coming off the starter solenoid don't stop the doors from opening up or kill the functions on the steering wheel.

The other thing is that FMIC pipes fall down and away from the starter solenoid, so if he lost a connection with the FMIC pipe, it drops away from the solenoid... just by weight alone. In my car we have 2 metal zip ties to hold the FMIC pipe up to the solenoid so that it doesn't pop off at the throttle body. It takes 2 guys... one holding a rope pulling up on the pipe and the other with his hands in there with zip ties. No way can you convenience me the pipe just bumped the solenoid while he was out driving.

Eye ball the pipe and connector, move on to the fuel pump priming at position 2, work on the fuse and relay. That's what I'd do.
 

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Prienzo, if the pipe did make contact with the Red point of the starter solenoid, the starter solenoid and pipe would be toast unless he popped the relay that runs that section of the fuses. If I was you, I'd make a list of everything he's having problems with, electrical wise and see which of the 3-4 locations all those are tethered to. It's not going to be a simple pipe or wire connection. Wire's coming off the starter solenoid don't stop the doors from opening up or kill the functions on the steering wheel.

The other thing is that FMIC pipes fall down and away from the starter solenoid, so if he lost a connection with the FMIC pipe, it drops away from the solenoid... just by weight alone. In my car we have 2 metal zip ties to hold the FMIC pipe up to the solenoid so that it doesn't pop off at the throttle body. It takes 2 guys... one holding a rope pulling up on the pipe and the other with his hands in there with zip ties. No way can you convenience me the pipe just bumped the solenoid while he was out driving.

Eye ball the pipe and connector, move on to the fuel pump priming at position 2, work on the fuse and relay. That's what I'd do.
The advice is very much appreciated.
 

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No problem prienzo, hope you guys get it sorted out.

Check fuse position 25 in the panel on the drivers side door behind the steering column?

Fuse 25 controls the Ignition Switch, Starter Solenoid Relay, ECM and CEM with 30 leads. CEM would control the windows and door locks. CEM in fuse position 32 controls cabin lighting and vanity lighting.

Fuse 22 in the engine bay is the breaker fuse for the starter motor, but again, I think it's a fuse connected to the CEM

Also, if it's the CEM, you might try waking it up by pulling the power to the battery... then once connected again, you stick the hard key in the drivers side door and lock it and then unlock it. You want to repeat that step 3 times.
 

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That's what I kind of figured... just hoping it was a fuse 25 for the CEM or relay.

Where is that CEM? I only see it on the computer screen when I hook the car up at Zen Volvo. I can't imagine the FMIC is connected to this problem.
 

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That's what I kind of figured... just hoping it was a fuse 25 for the CEM or relay.

Where is that CEM? I only see it on the computer screen when I hook the car up at Zen Volvo. I can't imagine the FMIC is connected to this problem.
I think it's under the center console?
 

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I have never heard of the CEM failing from overheating. It's in the passsenger compartment so does have an HVAC controlled environment.

It is located behind the left kick panel, and is an integrated unit with other relays, fuse, and the CEM.

If this is the issue, part cost is about $1300 from Volvo only! Do not know if Zmoto does rebuilds for it.
 

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Running to Universal Studios right now for horror nights, but I stopped by the garage to talk to the guys about this. They've seen CEM's go bad when the connection for the CEM gets loose and receivers rain or moisture from the run off. The CEM is located under the dash, but the connection is in open enviroment. Non here have ever seen it over heat. While the moisture is usually the cause... and they said sometimes from a car wash where water gets in through drain ports, they suggested the same as I did. Verify all the fuses... including a long fuse... which I fully didn;t understand, but am running to catch my party at the park.
 
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