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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, after having my sludge filled engine that spun a bearing rebuilt... It spun another bearing. So i have purchased a motor from Erie Vovo and will be dropping the subframe and replacing it. I will also be replacing the valve bodies in my trans at the same time.

Are there any good walk throughs of how to drop the subframe? I will have a two post lift. Any stuff I really need to buy and replace while I have the subframe off? Common wear items, like bushings and such? My car is a 2005 V70 T5 with 183k miles.

Thank you,
Randy
 

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Motor mounts for sure, while the subframe is off good time to do front suspension bushings too. Subframe bushings, control arms, etc...

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Replace the rod bearings in the new engine! Use B5254T4 variant, graphite coated like all the older engines used.

Oil pickup update, clean the pan while it’s off.

Pcv banjo bolt on the intake manifold needs to be updated to 31325709.

As for procedure, disconnect the wiring harness at the ecu. Harness splits and can be removed with the motor. Leave AC intact but compressor removed from engine. Split the steering column coupler inside the car. Split the suspension at the ball joints, suspension stays in the car, control arms come down with the subframe.
 

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Rear main seal. IF you have a trans or motor out, ALWAYS replace the rear main seal if it has more than 20k on it. That doesn't mean they won't last a long time, but rather it is cheap insurance..... you don't want to have to pull the motor out to change the seal. And, you are installing an unknown engine (although Erie has a good reputation).
Assuming this is an auto trans, but If its a manual, then inspect the clutch and throwout bearing.

As far as doing the job....
We have done a couple in the last few years.
If you have a lift, things are easy. We don't.
The issue is if you drop the cradle, with the motor and trans in the cradle, you then need to get the car high enough to get the cradle/motor out from under the car.....and then somehow drag the cradle out from under the car, plan your removal location to take this into consideration.

A good motor support tool can make this job easier. Get everything ready to drop the cradle. Install support tool. Remove the cradle to frame bolts, lower the car as low as possible. Using the support tool, lower the motor and cradle down as low as possible to the floor (you should be able to set it on the floor). Then carefully raise and support the front of the car high enough to get the cradle assembly out (be carefull, as the car gets pretty high).
Reverse to install.



Mark
 

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I dream of this moment, that’s when I’d do my steering rack. I agree with the rear main seal, do the preventative maintenance while motor is out if able to- PCV, tbelt, cam seals, coolant lines, upgrade the turbo, etc etc. sounds exciting
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I just replaced the entire PCV system on the other motor, prior to it eating the second set of rod bearings. All less than 4k miles ago, when it ate the first set of rod bearings.

What are the chances I can clean it out and reuse it? Or should I risk it?

This is all great info and thank you very much!
 

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I just replaced the entire PCV system on the other motor, prior to it eating the second set of rod bearings. All less than 4k miles ago, when it ate the first set of rod bearings.

What are the chances I can clean it out and reuse it? Or should I risk it?

This is all great info and thank you very much!
Don’t clean it, inspect instead, it’s likely clean. Just swap the parts unless you know the donor parts are good. Then remove them and keep for when you need it.


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Oh yea, I have a lift for the job :) View attachment 139901
With a lift, the same procedure is used as when you don't have one, but you don't have to drop the cradle/engine onto the floor, and you don't have to have a engine support tool. Instead, put some pallets down, and drop it onto that by lowering the car down. If you have a forklift, then once the cradle is on the pallets, raise the car, and then you can come in and take the pallet and cradle out from under the car. A pallet jack works very well also.

Mark
 
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On the rear main seal I found there is a newer version and an older version. The older one has a cloth appearance.

Swapped mine during a clutch flywheel M56LK Quaife swap (thank you Rolling Motors for putting the Quiafe into the trans) and had a really hard time with the newer seal design. For that one think you need the factory tool. The cloth appearing older seal older part number went in MUCH easier.

Hoses to oil cooler and turbo and to heater core seem obvious, and the PCV is alot easier as others indicate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So far I have ordered every gasket I think I will need. I did get a synthetic rear main seal from Mahle. So we will see. I also ordered every engine and subframe mount, a valve body for my transmission, new filters and Bilstein HD suspension for lowered cars. The motor arrived yesterday. I have to arrange a few things before I get started... but hopefully in a couple days I can begin this nightmare!

The PCV and Timing belt and such were just changed on the now defunct motor, so I will move those parts across to the new motor.
 

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So far I have ordered every gasket I think I will need. I did get a synthetic rear main seal from Mahle. So we will see. I also ordered every engine and subframe mount, a valve body for my transmission, new filters and Bilstein HD suspension for lowered cars. The motor arrived yesterday. I have to arrange a few things before I get started... but hopefully in a couple days I can begin this nightmare!

The PCV and Timing belt and such were just changed on the now defunct motor, so I will move those parts across to the new motor.
Mahle doesn’t make the RMS.

Proper PN is 31480636, volvo
 

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Anything engine seal related, use blue box (oem volvo). Buy from FCP, buy one more than you need. Inevitably you’ll goof the install of something (happens even with experience and the right tools) and a spare might cost $25 up front (refunded later) but doesn’t halt progress.
 
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