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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday I was under the car and realized the front torque rod / engine mounting lower has cracked/missing partly the rubber:



Also the upper engine mount is worn:



The fron rear one looks OK, but it has compressed after 14 years in active duty, I guess:



After some googling I found that there is additional one: right mount, located under the crankshaft pulley.

Worth the replace all?
Any good step-by-step instruction?
 

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Cracked rubbers are never good. :D



The pad mounts (C) will leak when failed. Need to jack the engine up slightly, need a long extension to get at the top nut, the bottom nut is located through a hole in the subframe.

The engine mount on the front of the engine (B) will create some strange noises when failed. B requires you to jack up the right side, remove the right wheel, bend back the wheel well liner, and slightly jacking up the engine safely (I used a 2x6 on the pan).

The upper and lower torque mounts will cause vibrations, clunking, and noises when failed. Very easy to replace.

The subframe bushings will affect handling and driveability when weak/failed. Quite difficult to replace, a band-aid is IPD's subframe inserts.

Myself, I replace D, B, and A, and replace/service the other mounts as they fail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Antherzoll, this figure is awesome!

Thx a lot, guys!
I found DIY's of the upper mount and lower tranny torque fod (dead easy).

Edit
After some searching: front mount and front/rear pads are doable as well.
 

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Great advice as usual from Antherzoll. Nothing else to add.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Upper engine mount: replaced

The top one changed from CORTECO to FEBI. Important to mention, that CORTECO built in 2012-2013 and cracked (the old one is in the backgrund):

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Lower torque rod: done!

Pretty easy DIY eliminate cracked mount. In the background the old (original) one from Scantec after 15 years.

 

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Are the sub bushings difficult because a press is required? And would you recommend going poly replacements or inserts for "D" and "A"? I know iPD sells nice poly replacements for each... What about the Volvo HD sub frame bushings that FCPEuro sells??
 

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Are the sub bushings difficult because a press is required? And would you recommend going poly replacements or inserts for "D" and "A"? I know iPD sells nice poly replacements for each... What about the Volvo HD sub frame bushings that FCPEuro sells??
Link to the FCP bushing?

If you enjoy ride comfort than keep it rubber. You can get away with solid mounts for J and K and the small bushing on the transmission mount without affecting NVH too much. I have the subeframe inserts and they make the vechicle feel tighter, but I also suspect that they allow more roadnoise and vibrations through to cab, which I feel mostly through my pedal and steering wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I am a fan of OEM or similar quality spareparts: using my cars for daily relaxing commute and not for racing. E.g. replaced all engine mounts and torque rods in my ex SAAB 9-5 by aftermarket ones: tranny and the engine were sitting rock solid and comfortable.

Tapatalk-kal küldve az én GT-P5110-el
 

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I guess I'm not terribly familiar with how harsh poly parts can be. Is it super noticeable, or that's dependent on other factors? Do J and K make a noticeable difference? I know of those mounts from iPD, but just wondered if they are actually worthwhile putting in?

And my mistake, the Volvo HD mounts were on iPD, not FCPEuro... Link here
I see now, these must be the XC90 mounts that I've been pointed towards.
 

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Subframe bushings rarely have any problems. Usually the subframe bushings I've replaced is because there was a fluid leak that ruined the bushing. There a tight fit, Big job for a do it yourself er.
 
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