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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys,

I replaced my shoes and springs tonight because I was afraid of the e-brake de-lam issue. I got through the change, and I thought that I had everything buttoned up properly. However, when I adjusted the e-brake after buttoning everything back up, I could not tighten it enough. I ran the adjustment nut all the way down, pulling up the handle ALL THE WAY, the car would barely stay still on a gentle hill. The engagement of the brake seems to be gradual, as in when I pull the handle, 2" of travel is a little bit of engagement, 4" is not quite enough to keep it in place, but a little more, and maxed out will barely keep it in place. Before I did the work, I would never be able to get more than a couple clicks on the handle before I hit HARD engagement of the shoes. It was a very positive stop.

After I test drove the car (e-brake OFF) I could smell some "brakes" smell in the garage. I backed the adjustment nut way off so that the shoes won't drag in case that is happening.

Any ideas what I could have done wrong before I take it all back apart?
 

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I know others have run into a similar situation. I replaced mine and the same thing happened. Volvo dealer tightened the nut in the handle down so far that one click is as far as it would come up, but the brake still had some issue holding on steep hills. It also makes a horrid squeal as it engages. I ended up loosening the nut and although I can yank up the brake with no effect now while in motion, it does seem to hold on hills a little better now (maybe there's a break in period?). Not exactly an emergency brake anymore though.

It just feels like the shoes aren't being pushed into the drums hard enough, no matter how tight the adjustment is.

Curious to know if you find a resolution to this as well.
 

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Wow! My same problem I have posted over and over again. Now we can find out what happened. Did you both use factory Volvo shoes or aftermarket? Have you changed the cables. I have changed cables and still have the problem.
 

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Same problem...aftermarket shoes, original brake cables.

I tightened the adjuster much further than I thought necessary but that's what it took to get the brakes to engage. I've been meaning to take the drums off again and inspect the mechanism but haven't had the time.
 

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This seems like a design problem, who in their right mind would design a drum brake
without a self adjusting star wheel.

IIRC some models before the R used to have self adjustment. I wonder if one could transplant it over to the R. Very simple device that would ptobably fix the issue. Tightening cable should be only used to reduce ebrake lever play, and not how the brakes are adjusted.
 

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Aftermarket shoes, original cables. Maybe the springs aren't holding the right tension?
 

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Springs only pull away the brakes, after the application.

When you pull up the brake level, you force apart the brake shoes and force them against the drum. When you release the brake, springs pull away the linings from the drum
 

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Just a quick question... how much is it to replace the ebrake shoes at a shop? I know DIY is always cheaper but I wouldn't feel comfterable running a new cable and was wondering what the price difference between DIY and/or indy was? Roughly
 

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Just a quick question... how much is it to replace the ebrake shoes at a shop? I know DIY is always cheaper but I wouldn't feel comfterable running a new cable and was wondering what the price difference between DIY and/or indy was? Roughly
If you are just doing shoes you wouldn't need to run a new cable.
 

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Guys,

I replaced my shoes and springs tonight because I was afraid of the e-brake de-lam issue. I got through the change, and I thought that I had everything buttoned up properly. However, when I adjusted the e-brake after buttoning everything back up, I could not tighten it enough. I ran the adjustment nut all the way down, pulling up the handle ALL THE WAY, the car would barely stay still on a gentle hill. The engagement of the brake seems to be gradual, as in when I pull the handle, 2" of travel is a little bit of engagement, 4" is not quite enough to keep it in place, but a little more, and maxed out will barely keep it in place. Before I did the work, I would never be able to get more than a couple clicks on the handle before I hit HARD engagement of the shoes. It was a very positive stop.

After I test drove the car (e-brake OFF) I could smell some "brakes" smell in the garage. I backed the adjustment nut way off so that the shoes won't drag in case that is happening.

Any ideas what I could have done wrong before I take it all back apart?
Did you use aftermarket shoes?
 

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I studied the mechanism a little when I did mine this past weekend. It looks like the shoes only engage the drum near the cable-actuated mechanism (left side - don't know what to call it). On the other end (right side) is a smaller return spring with sort of a metal spacer (H-bracket) which acts as the fulcrum.

I wonder if your after market shoes have a different dimension than the stock ones, so it requires more movement before engaging. I cannot comment on the effectiveness of the parking brake because I never use it.

Edit:Something else I remembered. The shoes are asymmetrical, so it wouldn't work properly if installed backwards.
 

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The cable-actuated mechanism is called the Expander. I do not think the shoes can be installed backwards because of the H-bracket only fits one way. But that is worth checking. I think it is aftermarket shoes that is giving us the problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I also used aftermarket (ScanTech) shoes. Has anyone experienced this problem using OEM pads?

I am glad to hear I am not the only one. I was SURE I had reassembled everything correctly, I was shocked when it didn't work.

I am going to bitch out FCP groton and get a set of OEM shoes. I will compare the Scantech ones to the OEM shoes when I change them out.
 

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I also used aftermarket (ScanTech) shoes. Has anyone experienced this problem using OEM pads?

I am glad to hear I am not the only one. I was SURE I had reassembled everything correctly, I was shocked when it didn't work.

I am going to bitch out FCP groton and get a set of OEM shoes. I will compare the Scantech ones to the OEM shoes when I change them out.
Yeah, cannot wait to hear about how it goes. I hope this is the problem.
 

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OK, things to check. You can put the shoes in backwards causing a different geometry with expander/no-worky. Also, the variations in OEM/Volvo shoes is quite amazing. Make SURE that the Scantech/aftermarket shoes are EXACTLY the same size and shape as the ones you took out. As for the cables, it's possible that they've stretched a bit as previous owners/techs kept adjusting them tighter as needed. Also might be a problem with a frozen/stuck expander mechanism on one or both sides. Take shoes back off and be sure that everything moves and swivels freely. Good luck!
 

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OK, things to check. You can put the shoes in backwards causing a different geometry with expander/no-worky. Also, the variations in OEM/Volvo shoes is quite amazing. Make SURE that the Scantech/aftermarket shoes are EXACTLY the same size and shape as the ones you took out. As for the cables, it's possible that they've stretched a bit as previous owners/techs kept adjusting them tighter as needed. Also might be a problem with a frozen/stuck expander mechanism on one or both sides. Take shoes back off and be sure that everything moves and swivels freely. Good luck!
New cables, expanders move freely, aftermarket shoes. Are the shoes on correctly? I do not see how anyone can put these on backwards. There is only one way they will fit over the hub with the correct positioning of the hardware.
 

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Only way I could see you putting them on "backwards" is switching top for bottom, but I think at that point, it wouldn't make a difference. Either that or the retaining spring (in the middle) wouldn't fit right.
 
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