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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I had my car dyno'd on Sunday. While it was very fun and got to find out that my car makes 210HP and 250TQ (lol!), I went home and watched the video I recorded with my camera and noticed the engine was shaking like crazy as the car came to a stop.

Pay attention to the engine in the video as the wheels stop. Also for a while now, my car gets a little shake when im coming to a full stop and when going down from 2nd to 1st gear. So this might be the culprit that's making all that movement and clunks when I shift from R to D and vise versa also.

Could this be engine mounts? I recently replaced my top engine mount and the lower trans mount seemed good. The other S60R that was there, same year and GT, the engine didn't do that, it was perfectly stable and firm as the wheels stopped. People on the Facebook page are saying its possibly my engine mounts.

Run #1, watch the engine as the car stops

Run #2

Run #2 for entertainment :D

Dyno Sheet


Finall question, has anyone dyno'd their stock R? Am I getting stock numbers? Im a little worried im too low...
 

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I'd say that's low. Google images "Volvo S60R dyno" and you can find some stock pictures. Most people are running about 250-260 HP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
So there's power being lost somewhere. Where should I start? This is where I become extremely newbie. :confused:
Also the engine movement, could it be the 30778952 engine mount? Are those hard to DIY replace?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Watch this video and skip to 3:45 for my car, watch the engine how it shakes. After my run its the other R, but the engine it perfectly solid.


Note: we know his AWD isn't working, we don't know if its the DEM or his angle collar gear, but that's not important to the subject here. :p
 

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Start basic.

Check filters.
-Fuel filter, this can restrict the flow of fuel to the engine, obviously robbing performance.
-Air filter, same thing here, but obviously with air, turbos love free flowing air.

Also, check your spark plugs, I'm sure they're working, but they may have carbon build up on them and be in need of replacing.

It's also a good idea to go over the intercooler hose clamps. Mark where they are at when tight, then you'll only need to do visual inspections later down the road when you want to check them.
 

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+1 to above post:

problem with tuning to "stage zero" is there are so many places to lose power.
Just finding a weak sensor that's making the ECU afraid to commit can consume a year of your life.
I won't even begin to explain the frustration of a boost/vacuum leak.... the kind that only show up under load...

posted graph data makes me lose my mind:

example: look at IPD's graph of their "stage II" tune (red lines) ... using factory stock turbo... it's actually better than their multi-thousand dollar "4T4" turbo kit (blue lines).

does anybody in the real world ever get those kinds of numbers??? What kind of 98 RON gas were they using, and just how much nitrous was :leaking from the tank "accidently" placed against the front grill during the pull ?
... because you have to replace every filter, plug, coil, sensor, etc., etc., and then begin tweeking and "tuning" ... to get even close (best I ever got was 277hp 310 torque ... but later I found my fuel pump might have not been 100% ... there is no end to things that might make your numbers come up short ... and what about your injectors ? see what I mean ?).

over the years, I recall baseline factory stock numbers ranging from 220 to 240 hp.

Trying to get your R to perform at it's best with stage zero components is a full-time job...but bolting on mods before establishing a clean baseline is a big waste of t & $
want to lose hundreds of hours every weekend? order VIDA / DICE and a laptop that will run WIN 98 software.... it's written in Martian.
 

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+1 to above post:

Trying to get your R to perform at it's best with stage zero components is a full-time job...but bolting on mods before establishing a clean baseline is a big waste of t & $
want to lose hundreds of hours every weekend? order VIDA / DICE and a laptop that will run WIN 98 software.... it's written in Martian.
I have a love hate relationship with VIDA... Why the ?!??!?!?! didn't Volvo add data-logging to a freaking CSV file through VIDA. My physics labs write to CSVs but not a multi thousand dollar software package. Why? Because VOLVO.
 

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This is a major concern for me with these cars. The intercooler placement is horrible, as is the "twin intercooler" idea.

On the other hand, the intake manifold being on the front of the engine means you can pack an ice back on top of it, not sure how much that would help tho.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the help guys. I've actually been on a quest to bring my car back to stage zero since purchasing her. So far I've started with suspension and next up will be the actual stage zero steps. I'll try to get a boost gauge and vida this month to start my testing off, then I will definitely change spark plugs, fuel filter etc.

Also, no the car was sitting outside for a couple hours until my turn came, weather was pretty cool too and the shop was well ventilated. Btw, one month ago, I dragged my car and did a 14.6sec quart mile, that's close to stock numbers.

Finally, about the engine, could it be the bushings I was suggested to get? I don't want to waste money on something that might not fix the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My stock R did 250/275
No way engine mounts are making you lose that much power. You probably have a leak or blockage somewhere.
My question about the engine mounts has nothing to do with my power. It's a different subject that I asked about in my 1st post.

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