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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

Wondering if anyone knows of a YouTube video, or write up on the process of removing/replacing the oil pan. I've searched here and there, and not found anything.

Here's the story...

Yesterday I hit a football-sized rock square in the iPD skid plate, going at least 60mph (100km/h). I immediately pulled over to ensure no real damage had been sustained by my oil pan, bumper, etc.
Other than a nice golfball-sized indent in the skid plate, all looked fine so I carried on.

Roughly 20 miles later I merged onto a different highway. Up to speed, I checked my mirrors and realize I'm streaming a thick cloud of smoke out behind. SOS!
I immediately pull off the highway, kill the engine, and watch the puddle of oil grow.

Now, having not yet had a chance to get the skid plate off and take a look under the car, I'm not entirely sure what happened.
Pretty doubtlessly cracked the oil pan, right? ...but why did I not lose ANY oil for 30 minutes of driving after hitting that miniature boulder? Is there something else that might have gone wrong, gotten knocked loose, etc.?

I feel fortunate that I noticed the smoke immediately, and was able to get the engine turned off quick. I left liters of oil on the side of the road, and flatbed towtrucks (yes plural - don't ask :facepalm: ), so I know it couldn't have been anywhere near low enough in time to do any damage.

Thoughts?
 

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Maybe you didn’t notice the oil leaking as bad since you had the engine off and once you started it the pressure caused the leak to worsen.

Best way to tell is getting under the car with a flashlight to see what got damaged on impact.


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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
You're right. The only way I'll know is to just get under there and check it out. **Note that I didn't ever turn the engine off and then back on. Only turned it off after seeing all the smoke start.**

Know of any videos or write-ups of the replacement process?
 

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You're right. The only way I'll know is to just get under there and check it out. **Note that I didn't ever turn the engine off and then back on. Only turned it off after seeing all the smoke start.**

Know of any videos or write-ups of the replacement process?
Try this out, it’s a focus st but the process and layout should be the same (if you have a T5 model) and give you an idea of what to expect.

https://youtu.be/6U6BVQgHOO4


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I removed and repaired the oil pan on my 2.4i. The ac compressor can be a pain. Best to use a bungee and move it out of the way.

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God i wish i had vida...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
UPDATE: I got my skid plate off and found the damaged area on the oil pan. The rock must have flopped over and went spinning fast enough to rotate around and whack the back corner of my oil pan (to the left of the drain plug). The drain plug service opening in the iPD skid plate seems to be right where the rock got in.

Check it out...



I'm thinking I may just seek out a welder to put a nice TIG blob over that kerfuffle. Also, people tell me JB Weld is a thing, but I seriously can't imagine trusting something like that - seems like a cheap band-aid. A real weld, though, I think I can get behind that idea instead of buying a new pan, and going through all the hassle of removal and installation.

I'd love to hear everyone's advice!

Thanks all who've chimed in so far.
 

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98 S70 Base, 06 S40 T5 M66 FWD, 08 C70 M66, 11 XC90 V8, 13 C70 P*
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I'm thinking I may just seek out a welder to put a nice TIG blob over that kerfuffle. Also, people tell me JB Weld is a thing, but I seriously can't imagine trusting something like that - seems like a cheap band-aid. A real weld, though, I think I can get behind that idea instead of buying a new pan, and going through all the hassle of removal and installation.

I'd love to hear everyone's advice!
One of the POs (or used car dealer?) of my S40 did a JB Weld on the oil pan, and I was sure it would be on my short list of repairs. It lasted for at least the 40k I put on the engine before I decided to swap in another engine a couple of months ago for different reasons. YMMV.

That said, I doubt the crack in my pan was anywhere near the size of the hole you have. I agree that an actual weld would be the better route, if possible.

BD

'06 S40 M66 T5 FWD, '08 C70 M66 T5 Premier Plus, '11 XC90 V8 AWD, '13 C70 T5 Platinum P* ('94 854T, '05 S60 2.5T FWD, & '04 XC90 2.5T AWD R.I.P.)
 

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I think to properly weld that hole you will have to remove the pan to clean it and whatnot. That's at least what my welder buddy said to do before he patched mine up.

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Flex Seal!
 

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You can pull the pan in about an hour, it's not too hard. Got mine out yesterday... ;)
That's the easy part.

Cleaning all the old sealant off both surfaces, and removing all possible oil from the crankcase to prevent contamination of the seal surface as you try to reinstall the pan, and making sure the two orings stay put in the correct location as you set the pan, that takes a little while. :D
 

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That's the easy part.

Cleaning all the old sealant off both surfaces, and removing all possible oil from the crankcase to prevent contamination of the seal surface as you try to reinstall the pan, and making sure the two orings stay put in the correct location as you set the pan, that takes a little while. :D
Question - has anyone fabricated a steel cover for the oil pan - i.e. would bolt up using the bolt holes for the pan (or maybe just 4 bolt holes? One that would like fit over like a sleeve but not block the oil cooler or drain port? I have been searching for an alternative for the for the skidplate for some time but i have yet to to see something like that around. With the smaller form factor you could go extra thick on the steel and a football sized rock would barely make a dent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That's the easy part.

Cleaning all the old sealant off both surfaces, and removing all possible oil from the crankcase to prevent contamination of the seal surface as you try to reinstall the pan, and making sure the two orings stay put in the correct location as you set the pan, that takes a little while. :D
Good to know! That urges me that much more to just fix the cracks/hole. My plan is to clean it up really well (brake cleaner, wire brush, sanding the surfaces) and then squish some of the puddy epoxy into the cracks. I'll let that cure/dry. On top of that I'm going to overlay it with JB Weld and a piece or two of aluminum can. I'll let that cure and then over and surrounding the aluminum can "band-aid" I'll put an even thicker slab/dollop of JB Weld possibly using a little mold or even matchbox to help contain the stuff so it doesn't sag/drip while curing. I'm pretty sure after all of that it will be as good as, or even strnger than new (at least in that small area).
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Question - has anyone fabricated a steel cover for the oil pan - i.e. would bolt up using the bolt holes for the pan (or maybe just 4 bolt holes? One that would like fit over like a sleeve but not block the oil cooler or drain port? I have been searching for an alternative for the for the skidplate for some time but i have yet to to see something like that around. With the smaller form factor you could go extra thick on the steel and a football sized rock would barely make a dent.
That would be awesome. It is kind of ridiculous that a manufacturer would just let something wimpy like an aluminum pan holding the most vital fluid just kind of hang around the most prone part of the vehicle.
 
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