Bob, Bob the Bracket Man - woke me up!<p>Do you mean NO oil pan or a dry sump system IN the existing oil pan?<p>When I hot-rodded B18/20's we welded in baffles and modified the oil pump to prevent sucking foam.<p>I'll go look.<p>George Dill<br>
George:<p>I don't think it would be a good idea to have no oil pan, ha!<br>I believe to do it right you need a high volume pump to suck out that oil and get it to a tank. A shallow pan would probably be best. Then you need a high pressure pump to deliver the oil to the engine.<br>I read about this being done on hopped up VW's in the 60's
Bob,<p>Check these out while I look for something more specific.<p><A HREF="http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=lang_en&safe=active&as_qdr=m3&q=volvo+conversion+%22dry+sump%22&as_q=b20&btnG=Search%C2%A0within%C2%A0results" TARGET="_blank">http://www.google.com/search?h...sults</A><p>George Dill<br>
I don't think I've ever seen a dry sump B20, even on very developed race cars. Accusump as a backup, yes, but that's not the same thing.<p>B18s and B20s are unusual in that the whole pan is entirely below the crank, which makes it really simple to weld on a cover that makes it a "windage tray."
Robert;<p>Here is a dry sump B20 in Bruce Ackerman's race-winning Volvo 1800.<p>George Dill<p><A HREF="http://www.ackermanservicingvolvo.com/volvo_racecar.html" TARGET="_blank">http://www.ackermanservicingvo....html</A><p>
George. It was a thougt to eliminate a clearance problem with istalling a different engine. As I said I think I can work around the problem if I can get a damaged 5 cylinder oil pan. Why modify a good one? See my post in the wanted section.