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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title says - anybody ever change one? its the one that connects to the differential and mine is just about shot. just curious on the steps and how hard the job is or how long it takes.

Thanks in advance!
 

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It's not that hard once you get used to it, but if you haven't done a U-joint before it's best to get someone with experience to show you the tricks first.
 

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As the title says - anybody ever change one? its the one that connects to the differential and mine is just about shot. just curious on the steps and how hard the job is or how long it takes.

Thanks in advance!
It appears this repair would be your first experience with u-joint replacement.

Given the problems you had (have?) with the steering on this car my view would be to find a busy shop specializing in axles/driveshafts and have the entire shaft redone - all u-joints (the front may be a bushing) and all replacable components of the center support bushing/bearing.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What are those tips and tricks? i dont really and to spend the money having the whole driveshaft done because i dont know how much longer i will have this car. i am still having problems with the electrical from the previous owner and i just discovered a decent hole forming in the rear floorpan. such is the joy of owning an older car haha.
 

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What are those tips and tricks?...
First, read the entire driveshaft section here...

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Driveline.html

This is for 740/940 but applies to your 240 also.

Now for some time-consuming reading...

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...gc.r_pw.&fp=a74329b6fc7b7205&biw=1536&bih=783

...but disregard "steering" u-joint threads.

Hint: right-click on any google result, open in new window then scroll down slightly on the newly-opened Brickboard thread and click Threaded Expanded. Once this loads you will see all replies in on one screen including this...
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My only tip/warning, after years of doing these things on several cars, is to be very careful of losing any of the needle rollers. This can happen if the spider clips one corner of a roller as it engages, and pushes it sideways. You don't realise anything has gone wrong until the joint is almost home, and then you find the cap won't go in far enough to get the circlip on, because there is a rogue needle stuck sideways at the end of the cap.
Press in one cap, get the spider into position, and carefully engage the spider into the rollers. Then holding it in place, press the cap right in as far as it will go, so that the opposite arm of the spider is protruding as far as possible. Then you can engage the opposite cap onto the needles BEFORE it has begun to enter the yoke. Press it right in, and it will re-centralise the other cap.
Put on one circlip, then press the other cap with spider hard in against it. Fit the second circlip. Finally tap the spider back outwards so that both caps are equally pressed against their circlips. If there is any free movement (should be tiny/ non-existent) you want it centralised, not offset because one cap is slightly in.
That sounds a bit hard to visualise. Try drawing a diagram and work out exactly what you are trying to achieve with each stage.
Good luck!
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He's British but you get the idea.

Since you plan to replace just the rear u-joint mark then remove just the rear portion of the driveshaft. The markings MUST include that portion of the driveshaft that is still in the car.

It is possible to replace the rear u-joint while supine under the car without removing the driveshaft but I have never met anybody alive who has succeeded at this.

Once the old u-joint is out (be sure the flange bolts go back in EXACTLY as removed) take it to an auto parts house and they will sell you an exact-fit new u-joint using the measurements of the old joint. Probably under $15.

Please let us know how this goes.

Thanks.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
just an update, i have not gotten around to it yet but i am going to replace the u-joints on both ends. curious on the best place to source parts though - the local stores only carry what they call "universal fit" ones
 

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Wherever you go, get the part numbers off all three u-joints and compare that with the ones you order to make sure that you have the correct replacements.
 
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