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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Today she who must be obeyed told me there is something wrong with her door. Here are the symptoms.

When the car is on:
  • Drivers door open alert coming on. If it stops, it goes on again when I signal left. Doesn't do it when signaling right.
  • Clicking in drivers door when closed, but unlocked. It stops when I push the button down.
  • When drivers door is closed and not locked the signal light outside the door and the window switch panel dimly flicker in time to above mentioned click.
  • Drivers window wont go down, other three will. Lock function works
  • Drivers mirror wont fold. Passenger mirror folds fine when button on console is pushed


When the car is off:
  • If unlocked the signal light and window switch flickers. It stops when I lock the car. I didn't listen for clicking
  • Drivers window wont go down, other three will. Lock function works
  • I didn't try the mirror
  • I had the drivers door open. When I pulled the lock up the clicking and flickering started. When I pushed it down just enough so that I cant open the door when I close it (locks) the clicking stops. Pull it up and the clicking starts.

the drivers lock button goes up much slower than the other three

I'm thinking actuator. Any thoughts/confirmation before I start throwing parts at the car. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the local South Denver Volvo dealer gouges customers on parts with a 20%+ premium over list, so everything will be ordered on line below list. She can use my S80 and I'll use the Astra while I wait for parts. I just don't want to order more than I need.

Thanks, and happy new year.
 

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I have never actually heard of this occurring with a Volvo, but the VW we used to own had a very common issue that we encountered and it was just as strange as your issue. The driver's side door wiring harness was fraying. At times various functions on the driver's side door would function correctly, at other times all sorts of strange garbage would start to occur (And it didn't immediately make sense). It affected the power windows, the turn signal on the mirror, etc. The cluster display would say the driver's door was open and thus the interior lights remained on and we couldn't lock the car, etc. Total mess. I hope someone with more Volvo experience can chime in on this one, but I wanted to tell my story in case it helps you.
 

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sounds like a ground issue the current is trying to find its way home to the battery through possibly the drivers door module. does your car have turnsignal on your mirrors? if so i would look to see where the broken ground or corroded wire is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
no turnsignal on the mirrors. I will open the loom to the door Saturday when it warms up a bit. Keep em coming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I installed a new blue box door actuator. Nothing changed. I fiddled with the loom, no luck. At one point when I had the door panel off, hanging in my hand, everything worked.

Do you think the dealer's computer will diagnose this? I may send my wife there next week for a diagnosis, then get the part from Tasca and have them install it if they aren't jerks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I used the car this evening and I'm pretty sure the headlights were automatically on.

started the car when it was dark out, door is closed but unlocked, lights on window switch, and all interior lights are flickering on an off like a signal light.

lock the car, and when I signal left, the drivers door open alert comes on, and the interior lights go on. That's in addition to my first post.

Frustrating!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Usually that is being caused by the loom between door and car. Power or ground cable is broken.
Looks like in this thread http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-xc90-9/left-turn-signal-driver-door-problem-81755/

Does power window work?
Drivers window doesn't work, but using the buttons on the door, the three other windows work.
That link looks like my problem. THANKS!.

I read Swede's post above, and played with the wires in the door, but didn't go into the kick panel. I figured those wires were not moving or bending. I will play with it this afternoon, and keep you posted.

If this works I will be pissed at myself for cutting open the old actuator only to find out it is built very differently than the earlier ones with the you tube vidoes showing how to make a new resistor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
sounds like a ground issue the current is trying to find its way home to the battery through possibly the drivers door module. does your car have turnsignal on your mirrors? if so i would look to see where the broken ground or corroded wire is.
I have never actually heard of this occurring with a Volvo, but the VW we used to own had a very common issue that we encountered and it was just as strange as your issue. The driver's side door wiring harness was fraying. At times various functions on the driver's side door would function correctly, at other times all sorts of strange garbage would start to occur (And it didn't immediately make sense). It affected the power windows, the turn signal on the mirror, etc. The cluster display would say the driver's door was open and thus the interior lights remained on and we couldn't lock the car, etc. Total mess. I hope someone with more Volvo experience can chime in on this one, but I wanted to tell my story in case it helps you.
Usually that is being caused by the loom between door and car. Power or ground cable is broken.
Looks like in this thread http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-xc90-9/left-turn-signal-driver-door-problem-81755/

Does power window work?
BINGO!!

The ground wire attached to the door was the culprit. I looked at the loom and missed it because I didn't remove the connector and spin the loom 180 degrees. the black wire that broke is the bottom most wire on the inside. in other words, unless I was upside down with the loom connected, I wasn't going to, and didn't see it. The black wire was completely disconnected, no nick, just completely disconnected

I disconnected the loom using a screwdriver to lift the tab up, then I also removed the interior piece by the hood release to feed the loom out a little more. I used a needle nose to pull the black wire's connector off of the loom, and used a generic male wire connector. I jammed the new connector into where the old one was and put it all back together. if someone knows how to get the connector out of the black connector without going butcher, please post. I didn't take pictures, but the are the same as the ones in the Volvo Forum link.

Hopefully this post that references the Volvo Forum link will help someone in the future, and save them the $150 I spent replacing a good actuator.
 

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You guys rock! Thanks for helping me pinpoint this one, it was driving my wife nuts (insert pirate joke here)! My kids loved it though, I'm sure they will be a little sad. Anyway, I thought I'd add that I figured out how to release the wire from the connector (once you're found it, that is). For those of you confused as to where to find this connector, it's on the edge of the door right at the hinge side - my finger is pointing to where it is connected:


Once you have unplugged it (use a screwdriver to gently pry up the tab on top), you should be able to see the broken wire. Remove the reddish cap on the face of the plug, there is a release on each side (I used a tiny flathead screwdriver):


You should then be looking at something like this. I took this photo after I had removed the wire connector, hence the lack of a connector in the top left spot in this photo:


To get the connector out, you will need a tiny flathead screwdriver. Push it down the side of the connector as shown. There is a little plastic tab that automatically snaps in behind the metal connector when it is inserted. You will need to gently pry this away from the connector (prying to the left in the photo below) to move it out of the way so you can push the metal connector out. If you're doing it right, it will slide right out.


This is the end of the connector when removed. I am pointing the screwdriver at the end where the plastic tab locks in when the wire is inserted.


To fix, I simply soldered a piece of wire on to the existing broken bit:


Then I inserted the wire into the connector (it will click when the plastic tab snaps back in place), stripped a bit of the original wire, and soldered these together. Wrapped with electrical tape and it's good to go.
 

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Getting a little more common these days, adding another post on MVS for a "like" issue- https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=86106#p478002 . Anyone ever find a good repair kit for the pins?

I was looking for a kit and came across some pin removers so it's indeed possible to do this without completely thrashing the crimped pin (socket?). Coating the back of the connector (potting) with epoxy or silicone might change the flex point after repair if it's not re-crimped.

HongKong ought to know where to get something like this, maybe even replace the connector outright? What do you think?
 

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I've made my own pin removers using sewing pins and filing the point off.
 

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They are just female locking blade terminals. If mine ever goes, I’ll do some experimenting for the right size as they are cheap in multi-size kits.
 

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my 2009 V70 now has the 'Door Open' warning, with stuck window and inability to lock the car.
Thanks for the thread - now the work begins
 

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I have the "Door Open' dash warning, and can't lock the car (2009 V70), so this thread has saved me from pulling the door apart to look at the switch and actuator.

It looks like a very fiddly thing to access and fix the connector, but taking the door apart is a massive project I was afraid of
 
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