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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My new to me 2009 XC90 V8 RD drivers side door lock has a mine if it’s own. First off when I use the key fob to unlock it, the lock goes up and down twice. Not all the time but when I’m away from it for awhile. If I do it immediately after, it just goes up once. Then when I close the door getting in, it will sometimes lock on its own. Is my only solution to take it to the dealer or is there a calibration reset that can be done like I did with the auto up window issue?
 

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It’s a common issue. Someone mentioned about a rod in the door that needs bent, but there wasn’t much detail as to exactly the procedure. My ‘06 does it. I’ve learned to unlock all doors, especially if I plan to get out of it while it’s running, since I only have 1 key for it.
 

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It's a door lock actuator problem as it wears, which is a mechanical issue, not software. The location it senses for close and open changes over time thus can open or close at will, especially as it becomes loose. It sometimes affects your ability to lock the doors. This is an issue that is seen not only in the XC90 front and rear doors, but also in many other cars.

A bent rod is a patch temporary fix which tries to take up the slack for worn actuators, but will not necessarily work with it being loose. I tried to do a reset and test for a door actuator using VIDA in an XC90 with the same symptoms before, but the fix was an actuator replacement. VIDA may also show errors with the specific actuator.

A quick search brought this up. https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?178404-Replacing-the-door-lock-actuator
 

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That doesn’t seem to touch on this issue, at last by description or discussion on the post. There are no issues with locking the doors. I’m not saying it couldn’t be the lock actuator, but it’s not discussed for this particular problem on that thread.

The problem is, when you press the unlock button on the fob, the door unlocks. When opening the door, it may run a lock cycle on the driver’s door only, and usually ends up staying in the locked position. The bad part is, if you’re not careful, this can lead to a lockout. Like several of us, I only have one key/fob.

Here’s how it usually goes: Unlock with remote, open door (this could trigger a lock cycle), get in, close door (this could trigger lock cycle) start engine, open door (this could trigger lock cycle), exit, close door (this could trigger lock cycle). The other doors do not cycle when this happens, only the driver’s door. We’ve gotten in the habit of unlocking all doors (so we can open the rear door to reach in to unlock the driver’s door if needed), and/or leaving the driver’s window down enough to reach in if needed, if we’re letting it warm up on a cold day (for example).

In my case, it usually only happens when cold/first use for the day, and may be generally fine the rest of the day. It seemed to only occur during colder days at first, but is doing it a little more frequently, now. Having the key in the ignition will not prevent the door from locking itself.
 

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Check the physical connectors and wires running from the body to the door. Look for frayed or broken wires there.
 

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That doesn’t seem to touch on this issue, at last by description or discussion on the post. There are no issues with locking the doors. I’m not saying it couldn’t be the lock actuator, but it’s not discussed for this particular problem on that thread.

The problem is, when you press the unlock button on the fob, the door unlocks. When opening the door, it may run a lock cycle on the driver’s door only, and usually ends up staying in the locked position. The bad part is, if you’re not careful, this can lead to a lockout. Like several of us, I only have one key/fob.

Here’s how it usually goes: Unlock with remote, open door (this could trigger a lock cycle), get in, close door (this could trigger lock cycle) start engine, open door (this could trigger lock cycle), exit, close door (this could trigger lock cycle). The other doors do not cycle when this happens, only the driver’s door. We’ve gotten in the habit of unlocking all doors (so we can open the rear door to reach in to unlock the driver’s door if needed), and/or leaving the driver’s window down enough to reach in if needed, if we’re letting it warm up on a cold day (for example).

In my case, it usually only happens when cold/first use for the day, and may be generally fine the rest of the day. It seemed to only occur during colder days at first, but is doing it a little more frequently, now. Having the key in the ignition will not prevent the door from locking itself.
This is exactly what a loose actuator does. Have you ever tried to unlock the door manually with the door lock pin and when the actuator senses you lifting up or pushing the pin down, it triggers the actuator? These are the points where it senses the lock/unlock position. When worn and loose, the actuator unit senses this trigger point and since it is on the edge of triggering, it may lock and unlock and over again. It can also work where you try to lock all the doors with the remote and one door unlocks > locks > unlocks, leaving the car unlocked without you knowing. The looseness can also trigger an unlocked actuator to lock when a door is shut closed. The reason why the lock cycles lock/unlock is because the central locking senses an individual lock is either locked/unlocked when it is not supposed to be and tries again because of that looseness at the trigger point.

I have fixed this exact issue on an XC90. Sometimes there is a trouble code stored and you can only see it with VIDA. It indicates an increased voltage issue with the troubled door lock.

As Masscomguru mentioned, the wires running at the door hinge should be double checked for any insulation or wire cracks. But if the wires look good, the issue is with the lock actuator unit. The link I provided earlier shows a good write-up in changing the actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you all for all the great suggestions. Definitely will start with checking the wires this weekend. For some reason I believe that the wires will be culprit. Keeping my fingers crossed.
 

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It is 90% likely to be the worn and dirty micro switches inside the door lock (actuator).

A new actuator will be the solution, as they cannot be disassembled.

Quite a common problem and has been reported on this and other forums a lot.
 

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if it is the wire you don't see it with the naked eye. it is the bottom wire closest to the outside of the vehicle. you have to unclip the harness and look for the bad wire. We had that wire and the actuator as an issue on our 06. I replaced the actuator with a volvo part from FCP. About a year later that actuator went bad and the dealer replaced it. I couldn't believe it went bad so I had the dealer look at it. I forgot the symptoms the second time but it was strange like your situation. FCP gave me credit for the bad part. That made me a repeat customer.
 

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I have a similar issue. What I’m currently experiencing is the left rear door lock will lock itself after I open the right rear door . I can hear the right side locks about to lock but instead the left rear door lock . Once it locks itself there is no unlocking it, it will unlock and lock itself immediately. It does have the ability to unlock itself prior to this.

The volvo mechanic who I’m losing trust in is saying that it could be a faulty actuator (which they just replaced). they plan on just installing a new actuator.

The code is CEM-6A03 Rear left door locked. Signal too low. Intermittent fault . Does it make sense what the mechanic is saying? This fault code was active when they read the Vida report after they initially installed the actuator a couple months ago (which still was an issue).
 

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I have a similar issue. What I’m currently experiencing is the left rear door lock will lock itself after I open and the right rear door . I can hear the right side locks about to lock but instead the left rear door lock . Once it locks itself there is no unlocking it, it will unlock and lock itself immediately. It does have the ability to unlock itself prior to this.

The volvo mechanic who I’m losing trust in is saying that it could be a faulty actuator (which they just replaced). they plan on just installing a new actuator.

The code is CEM-6A03 Rear left door locked. Signal too low. Intermittent fault . Does it make sense what the mechanic is saying? This fault code was active when they read the Vida report after they initially installed the actuator a couple months ago (which still was an issue).
Did it work for a while after the new actuator install a couple of months ago? Do you know what brand the actuator was? Was it used?

It could very well still be an actuator. It could also be wiring as well. Have him check the wiring at the hinge side of the door if the wires are cracked.
 

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It never was fixed (even after install of actuator). It baffles me why the mechanic would say it was fixed even with a active fault code.

I'm not sure the brand but it was done at a volvo dealer. I will have to ask. Thanks for your insight.
 

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Never fixed, wow, and you waited this long to go back? If completed at the dealer, then it should be original. If it falls under several months, that should fall under the warranty period.
 

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Hello I have the same problem on my 2007 V8 XC90 (RHD). Mine started only after the wire cable for the internal door handle snapped on the drivers door. I fixed that wire by using an open ended two screw electriclal connector and just joined the wires inside it. That fix has worked well and internal door lever works well the only problem being that for some reason it has triggered this problem with the actuator. Is it possible that joining the wire cable for the handle has slightly altered the length of it which is now upsetting the actuator because for example it might be too tight? Would that possibly affect it?

Regards Barney
 

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I had also similar problem and its small micro switch inside the locking mechanism and Renault producer of this crap sealed all very good that you need to buy new actuator.
Passenger door sometimes lock sometimes not by remote. If you lock by door button driver or passenger lock always. By remote no. I check also wires behind the door connector and was ok. Of course Delphi producer of harness Guangzhou China Poland Romania Serbia ect...crap quality made so short wires to save and black and green snap to many of my friends.
Common issue but they never changed for free even if they admit cable harness bad quality. Maybe in USA but in EU they never call anyone they simply dont care.
Sometimes all power to passenger door missing and than I cleaned connector with contact spray as all PINS inside was oxidation. Why? Bcs. if you check one side of connector wires are protected by seal glue one by one and on another side not. hahaha Of course humid condensation enter on connector. Also bad quality not sealed so good. Where is the lot of water while driving on raining day...See drops on my photo just from washing the car...

My passenger door with remote works like this. Once I LOCK driver door lock. Passenger NOT. OPEN again and LOCK again than its close both doors. ????
Repeat with door switch buttons works.

Here is my photos how to check wires.



Put screwdriver under and lift a little and pull connector away shaking a little.


Will find pins photos how they oxidation destroyed.
 

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Thanks Hong Kong for the info. Just an update the dealer replaced the actuator under warranty and everything seems to be good.
 

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You mean complete locking mechanism module? Understand. Happy to hear solution.
Like you see very common problems on all cars worldwide. bad quality parts and they didnt improved nothing...selling going well. grrrrr ;)

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
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