[Dyno]

I have guilt for wasting so much time on this.

 

[normadel]

Do you know for certain that the engine is BURNING oil, and not LEAKING oil?

 

[Steven2016Volvo]

So, I have a question regarding this oil consumption issue. About A year ago, I bought a 2016 XC60 Drive-E 2.0 that was originally should as new in late 2015. It does not have any oil consumption issues at all and runs like new with about 80,000 miles on it so far. How can I tell if the original owner had the rings replaced? I see in Carfax that the engine was serviced several times, but it does not give any details as to what the service was. I am just wondering if this is an issue that I may one day face with this car.... I absolutely love the vehicle and sucks to think that I may have to deal with this down the road.

 

[stupid_nut]

My 2012 S80 3.2 was under CPO and was lasting about ~3500miles before the low oil warning come up. First time at 49k miles then pretty much consistent low oil warning halfway through the service interval. I would have to top it off with ~1quart of oil. When I went to complain they ran the oil consumption and said it was in spec and it had to use ~1quart per 1000miles to be considered a problem. They switched to a longer dipstick, reprogrammed the computer, and increased the oil amount needed for oil changes. Now at 76k miles I had to put in 2.5qts to get to the top of the dipstick line when the light came on. I still like the car and will just top off the oil. Maybe I'll shorten the oil change interval. Probably won't go back to Volvo though. Search through these forums and you'll see a lot of oil consumption threads.

 

[Wayne T5]

So, I have a question regarding this oil consumption issue. About A year ago, I bought a 2016 XC60 Drive-E 2.0 that was originally should as new in late 2015. It does not have any oil consumption issues at all and runs like new with about 80,000 miles on it so far. How can I tell if the original owner had the rings replaced? I see in Carfax that the engine was serviced several times, but it does not give any details as to what the service was. I am just wondering if this is an issue that I may one day face with this car.... I absolutely love the vehicle and sucks to think that I may have to deal with this down the road.

I would call or stop by your local dealer to see if they can pull up the service records on the vehicle. They should be able to tell you.

 

[Dyno]

I had to put in 2.5qts to get to the top of the dipstick line when the light came on.

If it were me, I would not be waiting until the light came on before checking the dipstick. I assume your car has a pressure switch or sensor. You're already in the danger zone when that light comes on.

 

[Kanoebillder]

I think your idea of using a thicker viscosity oil is a good one. The primary motivator for manufacturers to use low viscosity oils is for better fuel economy. Even an extra MPG is another point towards their JD Power ratings. The same goes for synthetics to extend oil change intervals. Were it mine I'd step it up to a good 10w40 oil (which is what I use in my 05 V70).

Servicing the breather system is another good idea on your part. Before you spring for the parts and labor, remove the oil filler cap and take a latex or nitrile exam glove and with a rubber band strap it over the filler neck. Start the car. If the glove inflates and blows off, the PVC system is clogged. If it deflates and gets pulled down to the filler opening, your PCV system is functioning properly.

As another poster noted, you can buy a LOT of oil for the cost of a piston/ring job on that engine. Use a thicker oil, top off when needed, and enjoy the car.

Good Luck!

 

["Bob"]

The title says it all really. In 2017, I bought a 15.5 V60 with 32k miles. When I lived in a big city that had several dealers, I had the dealer replace the spark plugs under warranty right away. Aside from the spark plugs and door latch recall, the car has been trouble-free. I have changed the oil using synthetic ACEA A5/B5 oil and genuine Volvo oil filters every 8k miles or so. The car only gets premium fuel. Everything has been done by the book. Now, at 85k miles, I am going through at least a quart of oil every 1000 miles.

I moved to a different state, work from home and don't log many miles now, but that may change next year. I can keep the oil filled up, but with this rate of consumption, it's only a matter of time before it fouls the catalytic converter.

How much good will, if any, could a 3-time Volvo owner such as myself expect from Volvo NA on this? How am I supposed to get them involved when the closest dealer is 2.5 hrs away. I don't have time to drive 5 hrs on a regular basis for the dealer to monitor my oil consumption. Would Volvo NA ever work with a 3rd party shop on something like this?

Has anyone had success reducing consumption by replacing the breather box (Volvo PN 31430923)?

Has anyone paid out of pocket for just new piston rings at an independent shop?

This is an interesting post. We've had a 2015.5 S60 T5 AWD since new and currently has about 60k on the odo. The oil gets changed every 5,000 miles... via the Volvo 50k warranty the dealer did it every 10,000 miles but I always did it every 5,000 miles so... in short, I did it at 5k, they at 10k, back to me at 15k and so on. My impression is that they use whatever oil they have on hand... that is to say that they started w/ Pennzoil but I noted they switched over to Castrol GTX. I've stuck with the Pennzoil. I have been surprised at the oil consumption, certainly when compared to any of the other 10 vehicles we have to choose from. Does this model have a "pre-existing" issue w/ pistons/rings that VNA is keeping close to the vest? No kids here and it's the wife's commuter so ours is in perfect condition, looks like new and we're definitely into it for the long term... unless? Appreciate everyone's two cents... and thank you White T5 for posting.

 

[Eric T Johnson]

This is an interesting post. We've had a 2015.5 S60 T5 AWD since new and currently has about 60k on the odo. The oil gets changed every 5,000 miles... via the Volvo 50k warranty the dealer did it every 10,000 miles but I always did it every 5,000 miles so... in short, I did it at 5k, they at 10k, back to me at 15k and so on. My impression is that they use whatever oil they have on hand... that is to say that they started w/ Pennzoil but I noted they switched over to Castrol GTX. I've stuck with the Pennzoil. I have been surprised at the oil consumption, certainly when compared to any of the other 10 vehicles we have to choose from. Does this model have a "pre-existing" issue w/ pistons/rings that VNA is keeping close to the vest? No kids here and it's the wife's commuter so ours is in perfect condition, looks like new and we're definitely into it for the long term... unless? Appreciate everyone's two cents... and thank you White T5 for posting.

The engine has an unusual piston ring design that can become clogged up with combustion residuals. If this happens, the oil scraper ring stops working normally, and oil consumption goes up. A partial solution is to use light viscosity oil, and change the oil at shorter intervals. However, I am not certain that this will clean out existing deposits on the oil scraper ring. Since you have been changing the oil at a shorter interval than the dealer recommends, it is possible that the rings in your particular engine are clean. A new piston with new rings is available , which should correct high oil consumption. Who pays for the upgrade to new pistons/rings is generally the question that gets discussed a lot.

 

[Wayne T5]

This is an interesting post. We've had a 2015.5 S60 T5 AWD since new and currently has about 60k on the odo. The oil gets changed every 5,000 miles... via the Volvo 50k warranty the dealer did it every 10,000 miles but I always did it every 5,000 miles so... in short, I did it at 5k, they at 10k, back to me at 15k and so on. My impression is that they use whatever oil they have on hand... that is to say that they started w/ Pennzoil but I noted they switched over to Castrol GTX. I've stuck with the Pennzoil. I have been surprised at the oil consumption, certainly when compared to any of the other 10 vehicles we have to choose from. Does this model have a "pre-existing" issue w/ pistons/rings that VNA is keeping close to the vest? No kids here and it's the wife's commuter so ours is in perfect condition, looks like new and we're definitely into it for the long term... unless? Appreciate everyone's two cents... and thank you White T5 for posting.

Your car has the five cylinder engine so is governed by a different TJ - TJ34588.2.0-2019-04-17.indd (nhtsa.gov)

OP's car has the Drive E engine.

 

[MyVolvoS60]

End of the day folks, there's no getting around this issue. As these cars age, hit 2nd hand markets, etc these threads will get more numerous.

All this has been covered ad nauseam.

Don't buy prospective oil burners, unless rings been changed. Otherwise, caveat emptor. Do your homework before buying a car.

Original owner - old 7y / 100k will pay for repairs if still active.

New Extended CPO / Vip Protection plans don't cover oil consumption with failure i.e Engine dying.

Original Owners Serviced exclusively with Volvo may get partial or less likely full good will. Work with dealer or email execs.

Didnt service with with Volvo post warranty - Unless you are a very loyal multi car owner to flaunt, don't expect assistance.

NOT original owner, didn't buy from Volvo, and car out of warranty? - YOU WILL NOT get assistance.

PUTS NAIL IN COFFIN on thread....

 

[Tech]

We should make an oil consumption forum.

 

[MyVolvoS60]

A sticky oil consumption thread in the P3 forum may cut down on the million new ones being created..

 

[p.rico]

A sticky oil consumption thread in the P3 forum may cut down on the million new ones being created..

A great idea, but wishful thinking. There are two threads titled "New Members: Please Read FIRST!" and "OFFICIAL: S60, S60CC & V60, V60CC Part Number & "How to" Thread". Instead of reading those, we get a slew of "how do I do this?" and "what is the part number for that?" and my favorite "I'm new here, what problems should I look out for?" threads.

It used to be that the older mobile platform hid the stickied threads in the yellow icon list and they were not always visible. The new mobile experience is similar to this (where you can always see them), so there's no real excuse anymore.

 

[Tech]

Make the oil consumption forum, add a sticky and then lock the forum.

 

[catfish93]

My 2012 S80 3.2 was under CPO and was lasting about ~3500miles before the low oil warning come up. First time at 49k miles then pretty much consistent low oil warning halfway through the service interval. I would have to top it off with ~1quart of oil. When I went to complain they ran the oil consumption and said it was in spec and it had to use ~1quart per 1000miles to be considered a problem. They switched to a longer dipstick, reprogrammed the computer, and increased the oil amount needed for oil changes. Now at 76k miles I had to put in 2.5qts to get to the top of the dipstick line when the light came on. I still like the car and will just top off the oil. Maybe I'll shorten the oil change interval. Probably won't go back to Volvo though. Search through these forums and you'll see a lot of oil consumption threads.

I work in parts and let me promise you one thing: There is not one solitary single vehicle out there that doesn't have problems.

Volvo's oil consumption is annoying, sure. But it's literally the cheapest engine problem to have. My 2012 XC60 started eating oil out of nowhere at about 155k immediately after the PCV trap was replaced. I still have the car, and it has 216,000 miles currently. The total cost for the oil it's consumed has maybe been $65. Maybe. I buy 5 quart jugs of Castrol full synthetic from Amazon for $20. At a quart every 2k, $100 of oil lasts about 50k miles. 3.5 V6 Fords have water pumps that are driven by the timing chain. It requires removing one of the cylinder heads to replace the water pump. 3.6 V6 GM products have a litany of issues, but most common are timing chain wear. Nissans have weak CVT transmissions that barely make it 80k miles before failing at $2,500 each + labor. Don't get me going on Fiat-Chrysler-Jeep-RAM vehicles. Electrical nightmares, always down for some module. Keep adding oil, buddy. Your Volvo will do you right and just may save your life one day.

 

[MyVolvoS60]

I work in parts and let me promise you one thing: There is not one solitary single vehicle out there that doesn't have problems.

Volvo's oil consumption is annoying, sure. But it's literally the cheapest engine problem to have. My 2012 XC60 started eating oil out of nowhere at about 155k immediately after the PCV trap was replaced. I still have the car, and it has 216,000 miles currently. The total cost for the oil it's consumed has maybe been $65. Maybe. I buy 5 quart jugs of Castrol full synthetic from Amazon for $20. At a quart every 2k, $100 of oil lasts about 50k miles. 3.5 V6 Fords have water pumps that are driven by the timing chain. It requires removing one of the cylinder heads to replace the water pump. 3.6 V6 GM products have a litany of issues, but most common are timing chain wear. Nissans have weak CVT transmissions that barely make it 80k miles before failing at $2,500 each + labor. Don't get me going on Fiat-Chrysler-Jeep-RAM vehicles. Electrical nightmares, always down for some module. Keep adding oil, buddy. Your Volvo will do you right and just may save your life one day.

Three things come to mind here:

1. Sticker Shock - $5,000 to replace rings. Most people never plan for a "large expense" on a newer car.

2. Bank Busting Sticker Shock - $12,000 - On Occasion the Engine Fails.

Of course, you could probably source out a rebuilt engine from a JunkYard for cheaper and have some Indie Shop drop it in. Not sure how well that'll go. @Tech @p.rico or others might have something to say. I'm guessing nothing pleasant about going that route.

3. Continue dumping oil - Not sure how much the Castrol 0w 30 costs.The cheapest of the options. Of course, this doesn't resolve the issue of the gunked up pistons and rings not cleaning. Problem will most definitely worsen over time, but at what point it becomes intolerable is subjective. Engine might fail prematurely or it could go 100,000 thousand or more miles just chewing oil.

I had a beater 1999 Toyota Corolla I used as a kick around. Original owner. Piece of sh*t started burning oil few years after ownership and got worse. Known Piston Ring Issue Toyota never stood behind. Car lasted 22 years before I offloaded, but at that point it chewed through 2 Liters every 200 miles and put out black soot. Had been probably doing that for 6-7 years.

I guess if someone's oil burner can last long enough to placate, then there's really not a problem.

Assuming they keep the car and don't offload it on CarMax, Carvana, etc.

 

[catfish93]

Three things come to mind here:

1. Sticker Shock - $5,000 to replace rings. Most people never plan for a "large expense" on a newer car.

2. Bank Busting Sticker Shock - $12,000 - On Occasion the Engine Fails.

Of course, you could probably source out a rebuilt engine from a JunkYard for cheaper and have some Indie Shop drop it in. Not sure how well that'll go. @Tech @p.rico or others might have something to say. I'm guessing nothing pleasant about going that route.

3. Continue dumping oil - Not sure how much the Castrol 0w 30 costs.The cheapest of the options. Of course, this doesn't resolve the issue of the gunked up pistons and rings not cleaning. Problem will most definitely worsen over time, but at what point it becomes intolerable is subjective. Engine might fail prematurely or it could go 100,000 thousand or more miles just chewing oil.

I had a beater 1999 Toyota Corolla I used as a kick around. Original owner. Piece of sh*t started burning oil few years after ownership and got worse. Known Piston Ring Issue Toyota never stood behind. Car lasted 22 years before I offloaded, but at that point it chewed through 2 Liters every 200 miles and put out black soot. Had been probably doing that for 6-7 years.

I guess if someone's oil burner can last long enough to placate, then there's really not a problem.

Assuming they keep the car and don't offload it on CarMax, Carvana, etc.

If #2 happens, then you'd just have to deal with it however necessary. Either by replacing the engine with a junkyard one that may or may not burn oil too, or buying another vehicle and defaulting on the failed one and make it the bank's problem - though your credit will take a hit for a couple years, you're not carrying a huge balance to your next car and you financed it before your credit took the dip. Unless it was paid off, then just trade it in for the $500 or whatever they give you and get something else.

I chose #3. I have the older SI6 engine, so considering that:

• these are different powerplants that share a common issue, mine hasn't failed yet but in theory could tomorrow. Not sure what a ring job costs on a 3.0 I6.
• the mileage of my vehicle greatly impacting trade in value, despite it being in excellent condition
• the fact that I love the car
• the fact that this has been the best car I've ever had by a large margin from an all around standpoint
• despite all that, it's still just a car and must be thought about in a logical manner

I'll just add a quart when needed. No matter how nice it may be, the car's value doesn't justify pouring thousands of dollars into an issue a few dollars at a time can solve for another couple thousand miles. I'd have to drive the thing another half million miles to come even within the ballpark of breaking even. If the engine fails, I'll evaluate my options at that time and make a decision. It may make it to 300k miles and beyond, it may not. But trading it in for $2500 now would mean missing out on getting far more value out of it as a great running (still tons of power) car for potentially several more years. If it fails in a week and that trade offer drops to $500, that's a gamble I'm willing to make.

 

[MyVolvoS60]

A great idea, but wishful thinking. There are two threads titled "New Members: Please Read FIRST!" and "OFFICIAL: S60, S60CC & V60, V60CC Part Number & "How to" Thread". Instead of reading those, we get a slew of "how do I do this?" and "what is the part number for that?" and my favorite "I'm new here, what problems should I look out for?" threads.

It used to be that the older mobile platform hid the stickied threads in the yellow icon list and they were not always visible. The new mobile experience is similar to this (where you can always see them), so there's no real excuse anymore.

It might not prevent every person from coming here with a Brand New, "My Car Burns Oil, Now What?" post, but it'd hopefully reduce the number. Especially since most of the 15.5s and 16s will be terming out their 7 yr / 100K CPO in 2022 or 2023. If not already expired due to mileage.

With these cars aging, I put my money on seeing a huge influx of these threads over the coming years.

 

[MyVolvoS60]

If #2 happens, then you'd just have to deal with it however necessary. Either by replacing the engine with a junkyard one that may or may not burn oil too, or buying another vehicle and defaulting on the failed one and make it the bank's problem - though your credit will take a hit for a couple years, you're not carrying a huge balance to your next car and you financed it before your credit took the dip. Unless it was paid off, then just trade it in for the $500 or whatever they give you and get something else.

I chose #3. I have the older SI6 engine, so considering that:

• these are different powerplants that share a common issue, mine hasn't failed yet but in theory could tomorrow. Not sure what a ring job costs on a 3.0 I6.
• the mileage of my vehicle greatly impacting trade in value, despite it being in excellent condition
• the fact that I love the car
• the fact that this has been the best car I've ever had by a large margin from an all around standpoint
• despite all that, it's still just a car and must be thought about in a logical manner

I'll just add a quart when needed. No matter how nice it may be, the car's value doesn't justify pouring thousands of dollars into an issue a few dollars at a time can solve for another couple thousand miles. I'd have to drive the thing another half million miles to come even within the ballpark of breaking even. If the engine fails, I'll evaluate my options at that time and make a decision. It may make it to 300k miles and beyond, it may not. But trading it in for $2500 now would mean missing out on getting far more value out of it as a great running (still tons of power) car for potentially several more years. If it fails in a week and that trade offer drops to $500, that's a gamble I'm willing to make.

1. If it's just the rings that are bad, then dumping oil til the engine eventually gums up and dies may be cost effective. A gamble, but the engine could last 20K or 300K. Hard to say.

2. If the Piston Cylinders are Scored, well then this is new engine territory.

3 Fixing or offloading really depends on the age / condition of the car.

A. If you have a low mileage vehicle, fixing the piston ring issue (at one's own expense or asking for partial/full good will) may make sense if long term ownership is expected. Some people, myself included, intend to drive their car until it's no longer economically viable.

B. Sell it, trade it, what have you while the market is hot.

There's really no right or wrong answer at the moment.