I'd say zero chance VCNA gets involved if you aren't going to take it to a dealer. Step one (if the breather box TJ does not apply) is to verify oil consumption with an oil consumption test by a dealer.
What's involved in the oil consumption test? They fill it up, tell you to drive a thousand miles, and bring it back to measure the level? How many times would this need to be done?I'd say zero chance VCNA gets involved if you aren't going to take it to a dealer. Step one (if the breather box TJ does not apply) is to verify oil consumption with an oil consumption test by a dealer.
Unfortunately, you're in tough spot with this car. There's no getting around a few 2.5 hr drives to your dealer and yeah, they're not going to work with a local mechanic to get your car fixed. Good or bad, your dealer has probably done a few of these so I wouldn't trust it to any indie shop. I wouldn't expect a lot of goodwill from Volvo (or any) as I'm guessing you don't service the car with them. I don't know how much just owning a few Volvo's counts towards goodwill - probably not much.Has anyone paid out of pocket for just new piston rings at an independent shop?
It was not certified.Was the car certified when you bought it? It seems Volvo NA is better than most with good will for folks who either bought the car new or bought it certified. If you bought it elsewhere then the prospects go down quite a bit. But the phone call is free. Techs breakdown of the process is the same as I've seen so that's spot on. Honestly... if you didn't buy CPO it might be a good time to look for something different before the problem is detectable...
Right. $600 for just pistons, wrist pins, and rings. I guess you add all the other stuff and we're at $1000 for parts.Only $600 in parts? Probably more than that. Injector seal kits and the injector rail pipe are $200 in parts alone. Another $100 for the head gasket and $90 or so for head bolts and you're around $400 already.
Labor for customer pay is around 19 hours I believe, but I could be wrong. I'd have to look it up.
I would rather have a mechanic at a volvo dealer that has already done the exact repair on the exact same car several times before. That's just me though.If it was my car, I would likely have the work done locally by a trusted mechanic.
Thanks. With the Drive-E engines, they seem to start burning oil right away after the oil is changed. I might switch to Rotella 5w-40 on my next change and see how much that helps.I've found on my 2012 6 cylinder T6 that changing the oil more often slowed it down. I went from 7500 to 5k and only use 2 qts between changes when that last 2500 miles would use almost 3. Perhaps lucas oil stabilizer would help slow it down as well.
I did the math. I buy 5 quart jugs of Castrol off Amazon for $20/each. At current rate of consumption, driving 50k miles would burn $100 worth of oil. I'd need to drive another 300k to break even with the cost of making my engine not burn oil, and with 216k already, why?
As for the cat, I wouldn't panic. How many universal cats can you buy for the cost of a new engine? Probably 4 or 5. Mine hasn't gone out, even with all the miles.
If it REALLY bothers you, maybe find an engine out of a totaled 2017 - that year got updated pistons. Pay an indy to drop it in. You'll probably come out for less than you would paying Volvo to fix the engine you have. Not sure how many hours an engine R&R is, but it's certainly less than 19 hours.
I'd rather have Volvo work on it too. Maybe they can get Volvo to step up and help out if I tell them I live too far from a dealer to get it regularly serviced at one. I called the dealer and they said that Volvo only likes to step up when all of the services have been done at the Volvo dealer... that's a bit tough to do when they are 2.5 hrs away.I would rather have a mechanic at a volvo dealer that has already done the exact repair on the exact same car several times before. That's just me though.
@WhiteT5 I know this stinks, but if you don't have any moral qualms about selling a car with oil consumption to an unsuspecting buyer, that is what you should do. If unloading the car isn't an option and you don't want to pay for the piston/ring job, your only other option is [BEFORE YOU BRING IT ANYWHERE WITH THIS PROBLEM] buy a warranty, keep dumping oil in when it says "low oil" and hope the piston actually breaks so you can get it fixed under warranty.
The answer is Zero chance unless this 2015.5 V60 bought in 2017 was sold as a CPO from a Volvo Dealer and still has an active 100k / 7 YR CPO. Then it's covered under warranty. You said "NO" above.The title says it all really. In 2017, I bought a 15.5 V60 with 32k miles. When I lived in a big city that had several dealers, I had the dealer replace the spark plugs under warranty right away. Aside from the spark plugs and door latch recall, the car has been trouble-free. I have changed the oil using synthetic ACEA A5/B5 oil and genuine Volvo oil filters every 8k miles or so. The car only gets premium fuel. Everything has been done by the book. Now, at 85k miles, I am going through at least a quart of oil every 1000 miles.
I moved to a different state, work from home and don't log many miles now, but that may change next year. I can keep the oil filled up, but with this rate of consumption, it's only a matter of time before it fouls the catalytic converter.
How much good will, if any, could a 3-time Volvo owner such as myself expect from Volvo NA on this? How am I supposed to get them involved when the closest dealer is 2.5 hrs away. I don't have time to drive 5 hrs on a regular basis for the dealer to monitor my oil consumption. Would Volvo NA ever work with a 3rd party shop on something like this?
Has anyone had success reducing consumption by replacing the breather box (Volvo PN 31430923)?
Has anyone paid out of pocket for just new piston rings at an independent shop?
Volvo is inflexible. No Dealer Service. No Assistance. @Stampermann had his piston rings done under the old 7yr / 100K CPO at like 77,000 miles. Volvo paid 100% cost. Well the engine bricked itself at 101,300 miles. And @Stampermann was a multi Volvo owner who dealer purchased. His car had all dealer maintenance except for one.I'd rather have Volvo work on it too. Maybe they can get Volvo to step up and help out if I tell them I live too far from a dealer to get it regularly serviced at one. I called the dealer and they said that Volvo only likes to step up when all of the services have been done at the Volvo dealer... that's a bit tough to do when they are 2.5 hrs away.
Then private sell the car. Carvana will turn around and sell your same car for $17 or $18k.I own the car outright. Carvana is offering $10k for it and then I'd have to go spend $18k for something equivalent. I'd rather not do that.
It's probably too late, but the correct oil to use is 0W20 Special Tec V Engine Oil (5 Liter) - Liqui Moly LM20200I might switch to Rotella 5w-40 on my next change and see how much that helps.
I couldn't live with myself if I did that.Recommendation: Sell it for top dollar on Cavana (top off oil).
Except there's no way to prove you knew it burned oil unless it's listed on CarFax or Been Taken to a Dealer. A car outside of warranty is sold As-is. Faults included. Sell to Carvana or Private Party. It's the buyer's obligation to do due diligence. A home can also be sold As-is. Again, if the buyer fails to do a home inspection, and the foundation is sinking, the seller isn't at fault.I couldn't live with myself if I did that.
I don't know how the law views car sales, but when you sell a home, you WILL get sued if you don't disclose existing issues.