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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since last weekend I've been searching the VVT Cam Seal and Cam Alignment threads on SS and Matthews. Some writeups are kind of clear and other just down right confusing. So here is a quick question:

Note that the engine is pulled with no gearbox so I cannot use a crank locking tool.

Prior to pulling the belts, I aligned the crank markings and the cam gear marks aligned dead on with the top cover marks. I then removed the belts and installed the cam locking tool. To align the tool the exhaust cam/tool had to be turned clockwise a bit to the slot/tool was parallel with the seam on the head. The intake cam/tool needed to be slightly rotated counter clock wise to get the slot of the intake cam parallel with the seam on the head.

When I removed the belts I did not notice if the VVT gears rotated at all. I wasn't paying attention. I pulled the VVT hubs, replaced the seals and now when putting the hubs back on, the marks are lining up perfectly to the cam cover marks even though I rotated both cams on the other side to get the cam tool lined up and fixed into position. Picture below.

Is this correct? I would have expected the cam marks to be off? Would I now loosen the gear screws and go through the reset procedure?

 

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The official crank lock tool goes in the hole covered by the big torx head plug under starter location on side of block. Crank is turned CCW until it stops against the inserted pin tool.
But, the crank marks aligned accurately as pictured is fine. Cam locking tool is installed with bolts tightened on back of cams.
The marks on the gears are not the point here. The crank in correct place and the hubs at CW travel stop with a tight belt is the goal. The marks on gears are of no importance, they are scribed when engine made, not put on gears when gears are made. The mark are only there for timing belt changes to know you are putting the belt on in the place you found it. When gears are removed the marks are not a guide for re-assembly.
To time correctly: Loosen the three bolts holding gear to hub and then place the bolts in middle of the slot on gear and tighten a bit. Put bolts in hub that hold it to cam barely snug. Rotate the gear and hub CW around until timing mark is aligned with notch on plastic top cover. This step assures the hub is at CW travel stop. Now torque the TX55 bolt to 89 ft-lbs and install the plug into the hub and torque to 35 ft-lbs while counterholding the gear, it is not a good idea to let the CVVT hub be the brace for this step. Now loosen the three bolts holding gear to hub. This allows the the gear and hub to take their correct places for the next few steps. Install belt with the gear marks aligned as close as possible with the notch on top cover. Tension the belt substantially past the correct "between the goal posts" position using 6 mm wrench in the tensioner arm going CCW. Pass the correct place and then move back to correct position and tighten the tensioner bolt to 13-14 ft-lbs.. The belt overtensioning assures the belt is tight all the way around. There is a risk that if this is not done (as VIDA instructs) that the belt will be loose once you rotate engine a few rounds. Now with belt tightened you use a TX 55 bit and turn the CVVT hub CW. It may not move if it stayed at its CW stop but usually it will move a little. The bolts should not reach end of the slots. If the bolts stop against the slot end then you will have to remove belt and turn that gear one tooth CW and then re-install belt and do the overtighten then relax step and torque tensioner bolt and then move hub CW again. Now tighten the three gear to hub bolts to 7 ft-lb. You are done, lock tools are removed from cams and then turn engine two rounds until it all aligns again and recheck to be sure. You may not have the gear mark aligned now. File a prominent new mark as your new mark.


The cam
 

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CVVT hub alignment procedure is fairly simple, despite what some members on here would say. I was advised not to do it by members on here, but did a lot of reading/research and went through with it and got rid of my camshaft position codes. It's not at all that hard.

With the back of the cam locked, the hub has a clockwise and counter-clockwise endpoint. When the hub is rotated fully clockwise, this is when the notch on the cam gear should line up with the notch on the timing belt cover.

Technically, when the cam locking tool is attached and the crank is in the right place, it doesn't matter where the notch on the cam gear lines up. As long as the hub is in the fully clockwise position when you put the timing belt on, the notch on the cam gear can be anywhere and it wouldn't make a difference. I opted to make sure the notch lined up because i'm stubborn and i preferred it to be that way, but you can always make your own mark/notch when your done.

To get the notches line up it is trial and error. snug (do not torque) the hub bolt and rotate the hub fully clockwise and see how far off the notch is. Loosen the bolt and rotate the hub until the notch is about 1 to 1-1/2 gears before the notch on the top cover. Torquing the center bolt will cause the hub to rotate slightly, so setting the notch a tooth or so before the notch on the top cover before torquing should hopefully result in the notch being nicely lined up once torquing is complete. Do this for both hubs.

To ease putting the timing belt back on and keeping all the marks lined up, i loosened the 3 8mm bolts on the cam gear when putting the timing belt on to get the marks completely lined up. When the timing belt was on and the notches were lined up, i rotated the cvvt hub fully clockwise as far as it would go. (at this point, because the 3 bolts are loosened, the hub will rotate freely from the cam gear).

I know some others might cringe at my procedure for doing the CVVT hub reset, but it's worked so far for me and fixed my cam adaptation values in vida. Before the reset i had 22 degrees of adaptation on the exhaust cam, and 9 degrees on the intake side. After, i have about 5 degrees (within spec) on the exhaust cam, and .65 on the intake cam. I had good results and was happy i didn't have to find an indy mechanic or a dealer like other people had suggested. There are guides out there to doing this, a guy called F250 on matthew's volvo site has a good write-up for doing this procedure, but again, i just did it my way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys! Much appreciated. Will give it a go and report back.

Scott C.
 

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If you reference other info in other places take note that 99-01 5 and 6 cylinder engines with turbos have exhaust only CVVT with a return spring. The procedure for those requires some preset positioning due to the spring. 2002 and later P2 models and all intake only CVVT do not have the return spring. If you find procedure for the 4 cylinders it will differ due to those using a low profile version that locks into position for installation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Realized that and only referencing P2 motors with CVVT. Thanks. 2006 here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK team, I think I got it correct and as many people have pointed out, it was not difficult. Reading the VIDA instructions make it a bit difficult.

Both intake and exhaust cam alignment slots on the back side are flat (inline with seam of head). Both hubs are in the forward most clockwise position. Took a few attempts to get the hub gears positioned such that (a) belt aligns with teeth and (b) cam marks align with the cover marks. Them getting tension just right and down onto the crack teeth and getting the correct tension.

The photo below is after two full crank turns and everything is still lining up. Cam slots are also still flat and aligned with head seam. Feedback?

 

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Looks good from front. The slots on gears do not have the bolts at end of slots and if the cam end slots are horizontallly aligned with head parting line then timing is right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well... sheat. This morning I go and take a closer look at the cam slots. It was getting dark and I was getting tired last night. Cams be slightly off.

 

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The cam tool is not expensive. At least, I bought one when I was trying to kill an exhaust cam fault on my S40, and I am really cheap, so if I bought the tool it can't be very expensive...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have the tool and it was installed when I did the cam/belt setup. I'm guessing tension (or lack there off) in the belt and cam teeth. Then, removing the cam locking tool and rotating the assembly one full cycle. tension now in belt and cam comes up short. My guess. it's off one tooth~ish.
 
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