SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 74 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

Got my downpipe from VIVA, but now that I'm actually looking at the space under the car, some of the bolts where the DP bolts to the turbo seem nearly impossible to get to. :confused:

Also, there's a fair bit of heat shielding that looks to be mounted to the OEM downpipe which obviously won't transfer to the ferrita unit.

Does anyone have a step by step (or at least an overview) of how to get the OEM downpipe out of the car? ( I have an xc60, but I imagine the packaging is nearly identical for s60/v60)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,931 Posts
Very interested in seeing if this is DIY friendly. Sub'd
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good news! Removal of the old downpipe IS possible as a DIY without removal of the angle gear or any other mechanical components. Will put together a write up in the next couple of days with recommended tools, lessons learned, etc.

If anyone else is attempting this today/tomorrow, PM me and I'll give you the quick version.

New question: does the Oxygen sensor spacer go on the sensor closer to the engine or on the sensor closer to the resonator?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
I'm pretty sure it goes by the resonator. Not 100% though. About 90%


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,931 Posts
I'm not familiar with the exhaust layout on the S60 but typically the 02 sensor spacer would go on the downstream 02 sensor, the one past the cat. Not sure if that applies here...

How long did it take you to swap? Could this be accomplished on ramps or would you have to have the car on a lift?

Can't wait to hear how the car drives with your new dp! Congratulations!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,931 Posts
Bump...

Can you tell I'm really really really looking forward to updates? :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Alright. So, first impressions?

Install: 3.5-4.0 out of 5 for difficulty. Not a "precision" job like rebuilding an engine, but quarters are VERY tight. If you normally buy size L or XL gloves, I don't know how much luck you're going to have doing the as a DIY.

Performance: Small improvement...nothing dramatic. About what I expected. My butt dyno says 15hp? Definitely get the P* chip first if you don't already have that as that was a more significant change. Car pulls strong, maybe revs a bit quicker? Haven't installed the FMIC yet, so can't say which part makes the bigger difference there.

Sound: Maybe a slight improvement in sound when paired with stock exhaust. Didn't expect much here either. Not until stock resonator is deleted and muffler is replaced anyway.

Issues: Now I've got a check engine light on. Drove it 30mi or so yesterday with no problems at all, now today I have a CEL. Still drives the same, but I've got a bright orange idiot light staring me down. I don't have a code reader to check it with. Both oxygen sensors are plugged in and torqued sufficiently (not sure how to torque an O2 sensor to spec since you can't get a socket on it...). "Straight" O2 sensor from viva was installed on the rear O2 sensor (aft of catalyst, closest to resonator).

I also noticed on four separate occasions on my drive home today (15mi) that tapping the left paddle didn't result in a downshift, and I had to tap a separate time to get it to respond. I use the paddles regularly, so this is definitely new/abnormal behavior. this was either on 5-->4 or 4-->3 downshifts where starting RPM's were sub 2k, so no reason the computer would prevent a downshift.

Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,761 Posts
There is a socket for O2 sensors, it's got a gap in one side for wires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Could the difference between correct torque and "as tight as I can get it using the 6" long wrench that there's clearance for" cause a CEL?

The O2 sensors were VERY tight in the old DP, so I'm positive it's not in there too tight, and given the clearance, I don't think there's a way for me to get it any tighter.

I suppose it's *possible* one of them rattled loose during the test driving, but I highly doubt it. Will have to throw on some old clothes and go check in a bit...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Alright. So, first impressions?

Install: 3.5-4.0 out of 5 for difficulty. Not a "precision" job like rebuilding an engine, but quarters are VERY tight. If you normally buy size L or XL gloves, I don't know how much luck you're going to have doing the as a DIY.

Performance: Small improvement...nothing dramatic. About what I expected. My butt dyno says 15hp? Definitely get the P* chip first if you don't already have that as that was a more significant change. Car pulls strong, maybe revs a bit quicker? Haven't installed the FMIC yet, so can't say which part makes the bigger difference there.

Sound: Maybe a slight improvement in sound when paired with stock exhaust. Didn't expect much here either. Not until stock resonator is deleted and muffler is replaced anyway.

Issues: Now I've got a check engine light on. Drove it 30mi or so yesterday with no problems at all, now today I have a CEL. Still drives the same, but I've got a bright orange idiot light staring me down. I don't have a code reader to check it with. Both oxygen sensors are plugged in and torqued sufficiently (not sure how to torque an O2 sensor to spec since you can't get a socket on it...). "Straight" O2 sensor from viva was installed on the rear O2 sensor (aft of catalyst, closest to resonator).

I also noticed on four separate occasions on my drive home today (15mi) that tapping the left paddle didn't result in a downshift, and I had to tap a separate time to get it to respond. I use the paddles regularly, so this is definitely new/abnormal behavior. this was either on 5-->4 or 4-->3 downshifts where starting RPM's were sub 2k, so no reason the computer would prevent a downshift.

Any ideas?
I had to stack two O2 sensor spacers together to prevent CEL on my subie without using MIL eliminator. Not too sure if it would work for the volvo though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,761 Posts
You should not be getting a CEL with a spacer on installed on the post cat O2 sensor, and you can tighten it to spec with an o2 sensor socket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Interesting idea...there's certainly clearance for it on the XC at least...I'm game for trying.

It's odd too that it came on today (day 2) during calm driving, and not yesterday right away after install or during more spirited driving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just checked all the connections...everything looked good. I was able to get another 1/4 turn on the rear O2 sensor with my largest monkey wrench, and put another 1/4 turn on the gas cap too just for good measure since I did get gas yesterday afternoon.

Will report back tomorrow if the CEL clears or not. Would it auto-clear if the symptoms go away, or do I have to take it to a dealer to get the code cleared/light turned off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,931 Posts
You might have better luck with an adjustable angle block 02 spacer like this quality piece from 42 Draft Design. You can adjust the distance of the 02 sensor from the exhaust stream and the angled spacer is both good in terms of fitting it in a tight exhaust tunnel and also because it shrouds the sensor a bit better from the less-restricted post-cat exhaust flow. This is the 02 sensor I used to keep the CEL off on my heavily modified (bigger turbo, 3" turboback exhaust with high flow cat) GTI, enabling me to pass the stringent MA inspection without disabling the rear 02 sensor itself. This is the go-to 02 spacer for most people in the modern VW community, and I don't see why it wouldn't work for a Volvo as well.


http://www.42draftdesigns.com/O2-Sensor-Spacer_p_306.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,931 Posts
P.S. Did you run the car without the spacer at all? Sometimes a CEL will come on later, even if the cause of the CEL has been fixed. Might take the ECU cycling through all it's various checks before it goes away. Also might help to unplug the battery for a few minutes and then see if the code goes away from a battery reset.

Thank you for your updates and additional info about the dp! I wouldn't be surprised if the car feels stronger after the ECU has a chance to adapt, especially if you drive it hard for a while.

Curious: any additional fun turbine sounds, like that high-pitched whine at light throttle...is that amplified at all, or under boost? Any additional purging sounds when you let off the gas? Other cars I've owned have had more turbo noise and purge sound effects after doing a dp, even with stock exhaust. I'm wondering if it's the same story here, even if the exhaust note isn't significantly changed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,799 Posts
I would remove the battery negative for a couple seconds to clear the CEL. Chances are it is left over from something. The straight spacers have worked great on other S60s/V60s and xc60s
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
312 Posts
If you have a CEL, without pulling the code(s) it would be hard to say what set it off in the first place. It's a good idea to pull them first to see what the issue might be. For all you know you might have an exhaust leak somewhere that could possibly set it off(extreme chance).
Also what's the temperature where you are? I know on my G35, I haven't ran a cat since 2006 and only time I get CEL is when it gets cold outside. I run spark plug non coulees which were converted to O2 spacers. With normal temps it's fine but when it's cold or first cold day it tends to throw a CEL.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Alright, so reset the battery this AM for about half an hour while getting ready for work. CEL was gone when I reconnected and no further signs of it after the commute to and from work (about 30 mi total). Will report back again tomorrow if the CEL stayed off or came back on.

Will follow up with my install procedure in a few days too.

Thanks guys for all the help as always!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
889 Posts
Hi All,

Got my downpipe from VIVA, but now that I'm actually looking at the space under the car, some of the bolts where the DP bolts to the turbo seem nearly impossible to get to. :confused:

Also, there's a fair bit of heat shielding that looks to be mounted to the OEM downpipe which obviously won't transfer to the ferrita unit.

Does anyone have a step by step (or at least an overview) of how to get the OEM downpipe out of the car? ( I have an xc60, but I imagine the packaging is nearly identical for s60/v60)
Interested in seeing this, I looked up the book time and saw it was 5 hrs and said I'm just not interested in spending 5hrs under my car at this point. Then I put the car in the air and had a look and it didn't look "THAT" bad. But I've said that plenty of times only to curse my self hours later for thinking that.
 
1 - 20 of 74 Posts
Top